Thanks..thats loads of help..
Managed to mangle the plastic a bit..but can't wait 2 to 3 days for new bits to turn up..

However I have noticed my kit that I bought ages ago has no spacers in it..just bearings plastic tube pivot bolt and end seals

Dumb moment again..spacers are in the seals..

Radius arm bearings

widemouthfrog said:

. . . the internals of the bearing are in any case exposed to the elements to some extent . . . The plastic spacer tube between the bearings is the only guard against any road salt etc that gets inside the arms . . .

Click to expand...

That's the idea of the plastic tube WMF, it encloses the bearings fairly well I reckon.


A thin bead of Silicone sealant on the ends before fitting would seal it completely.
Wipe off any excess from the insides once the two outer races are in place.
Alternatively BMS, fit grease nipples as shown in WMF's pics.

Well..its all back on..went back in place quite easy except for the plastic sleeve.I put the outer bearing race in the freezer for a few hours to aid fitting, still needed gentle persuasion.
If only the pivot bolt wasn't seized solid to the outer metal sleeve it would have taken about 2-3 hours tops working on your back

Not looking forward to doing the other side..it can wait for a while..let my aching joints and skinned knuckles recover

Like I mentioned in my old thread, I think the job is a whole lot easier with the subframe removed. Sounds a bit OTT I know, but getting the complete rear subframe off is actually pretty easy. Once it's off, there's no need for any working on your back and access to the offending f*!#ing bolt is easy.

Cheap source of radius arm bearing?

That's the conclusion I came to also, with my first one.
The four main bolts, exhaust, plus a few cables and clips.

I might have a go with it 'in-situ' this time, as I'll be in my Workshop this time, rather than out in the elements.

We'll see . . .