I'm literally minutes from putting a hammer to my 2003 115JTD Multi!

A while ago, I had a 2003 Stilo JTD which ran rough with lots of smoke, big end type rattles and no balls. Read on here about blanking the EGR, did that and the car ran beautifully.

So, with the above in mind and with my Multi having a distinct lack of power (but no rattles or smoke) I blanked the EGR off where the small ribbed pipe meets the EGR as I did with the Stilo.

However, this made no difference at all to the performance.

I then bought a new MAF and fitted that, again with no difference to the performance.

I've now started to remove the EGR to give it a clean but what an absolute b*****d it is particularly the bolts which secure it to the flange from the pipe which goes from under the EGR to a pipe leading down the back of the engine (sorry don't know where it goes!!).

How the hell do you remove these allen bolts??? I've managed the one closest to the bulkhead but the other near to the engine!! Jeez!!

Also, how do the clip connectors to the EGR and the MAP sensor come off? I'm worried about breaking them off using too much force to release them.

As the EGR removal is such a pain, I'm thinking of changing the MAP sensor first and then putting it all back together with the blanking plate mentioned back in place.

Help!!!!!

So, I've put a brand new Bosch MAF on, cleaned out the EGR 'til it shines, cleaned the MAP sensor and absolutely no difference to the performance.

Do I buy a brand new MAP sensor or now I'm wondering if the turbo is kaput?

I'm reluctant to believe it's the turbo as the Stilo JTD I had before had been hammered to death almost by the time I got it but once the EGR was blanked off it ran perfectly.

It drives as if it's got serious turbo lag but obviously without the consequent boost when the turbo should kick in. Also seems to want to pick up as you back off the revs but the minute you want to increase the revs to go up hill, it turns into a 1970's Transit diesel.

willow1 said:

So, I've put a brand new Bosch MAF on, cleaned out the EGR 'til it shines, cleaned the MAP sensor and absolutely no difference to the performance.

Do I buy a brand new MAP sensor or now I'm wondering if the turbo is kaput?

I'm reluctant to believe it's the turbo as the Stilo JTD I had before had been hammered to death almost by the time I got it but once the EGR was blanked off it ran perfectly.

It drives as if it's got serious turbo lag but obviously without the consequent boost when the turbo should kick in. Also seems to want to pick up as you back off the revs but the minute you want to increase the revs to go up hill, it turns into a 1970's Transit diesel.

Click to expand...

Hi, what fault codes are you finding ?,
any of them changed with the work done..??,

Charlie

To be honest I've not had it plugged in yet so can't give you any codes.

That might be my next task.

Just to add there's no warning lights on the dash and the motor ticks over as it should. The only light that does flash after start up is the glow plug light which only flashes for a second or two.

When I started it up after putting the EGR and MAP back it puffed out white smoke but only on start up.

If the turbo has gone would that show a fault code? Is it possible to determine if the turbo is actually working without a plug in?

I was also wondering about the oil catcher which I've seen mentioned before. Is it worth having a look at that?

Forgive my ignorance but clearly I'm a novice with this stuff!

Cheers.

willow1 said:

If the turbo has gone would that show a fault code? Is it possible to determine if the turbo is actually working without a plug in?

Cheers.

Click to expand...

The simplest way is to try squeezing the criss-cross ribbed rubber air inlet pipe that leads from the turbo to the intercooler while someone else revs the engine to something over 2,000rpm. You should feel the pipe go 'hard' because the turbo boost pressure is greater than atmospheric pressure; if you're able to squash it with hand grip, the turbo isn't working properly. Try squeezing the pipe before the engine is running and you'll see what I mean.

widemouthfrog said:

The simplest way is to try squeezing the criss-cross ribbed rubber air inlet pipe that leads from the turbo to the intercooler while someone else revs the engine to something over 2,000rpm. You should feel the pipe go 'hard' because the turbo boost pressure is greater than atmospheric pressure; if you're able to squash it with hand grip, the turbo isn't working properly. Try squeezing the pipe before the engine is running and you'll see what I mean.

Click to expand...

a split hose. holes intercooler will mess up the running,
if you've not had dash warning lights then no fault codes are likely to be present,
could be worthwhile plugging in , and clearing "historic" codes though, so at least you'll know you're starting from scratch..!!


time with a decent diagnostic tool could be the next logical step once you've rule out turbo and pressure issues,


Charlie

Many thanks for the replies so far.

I've squeezed the turbo hose and can feel a definite resistance when the engine is revved. It's not what I describe as "hard" but there is a definite difference so I'm guessing the turbo is working.

Can't see/feel any splits in the hoses.

I've booked it in for a diagnostic next Thurs so we'll have to see if that brings anything up. Don't suppose anyone on here has the gear and lives near me (Sheffield)? Obviously. I'd pay for the favour.

I've done all the filters and oil today but she's still the same.

Sorry Widemouth - just looked again and you said I shouldn't be able to squeeze the hose when revved.

I can squeeze the hose without too much effort so maybe the turbo aint working properly?

You could do with a plug in really, you will probably have set a number of codes so they need to be cleared & start from scratch. Just because the MIL light isn't on doesn't mean there aren't any codes. Glowplug light flashing just means one or more glowplugs are duff, if it starts OK I'd leave them because they often snap off. Based on what you have done & said, I'd say that the manifold pressure sensor is misreading but if the guy who does the plug in knows what he is doing he should be able to tell this from the live data. As long as it gives any sort of reading it won't set a code.

Changing expensive sensors without reading the ECU first, isn't the brightest idea if you ask me....
Buy yourself a small universal OBD code reader on Ebay, and check the ECU before any actions....!

And remember, blanking the Fiat jtd EGR requirers two plates, not one.


http://www.js-tuning.nl/egr-afdichtset-19-jtd-16v-24-jtd-20v-p-125.html?language=en


Or these:


http://www.js-tuning.nl/blanking-plates-euro-p-135.html

I only used the one blanking plate with the Stilo I had (the oval shaped one) and, as stated previously, it transformed the performance.

The MAF wasn't that expensive to be fair as it was at mate's rates, so I aint spent a lot so far (fingers crossed!). Forgive my obvious stupidity and I'll try my best to be perfect in future.

I'll see what the plug in reveals on Thursday.

Cheers for the other replies so far.

Peter Pick-Up said:

And remember, blanking the Fiat jtd EGR requirers two plates, not one.

Click to expand...

I thought that if you blocked one, then no gas passes, so there is no need to block both.
Why the need for two?

If you close it between the ERG and the cil. head, the turbo will still blow contaminated gas into the EGR, in the end the EGR will still be full of carbon and sooth...
If you block it only after the turbo, returning gas from the cil. head will find it's way into the EGR as well.
So 2 blanking plates necessary, as offered in the JS Tuning link.
If you want it completely safe, a remap is the way to go, delete the ( function of) the EGR by reprogramming the ECU.
That's what I did to my 2004 Alfa GT jtd 16V 150HP, two blanking plates, removed front and rear catalyst by downpipe and Ragazon cat replacement pipe, all from JS Tuning, and a remap to remove the function of the EGR from the ECU.
Car runs very smooth, even after about 190.000mls, no smoking even during accelerating, and..... no MOT problems at all!!

OK I understand, but most people block the EGR because it is already sooted up, and will stay like that forever.

Cheers for the link re the reader. Didn't realise they were as cheap.

Re the b/plates - excuse my ignorance, but are we saying use the oval and square plate in the first link or the two oval plates in the second?

I've only fitted one oval plate at the EGR end of the small ribbed pipe that fits between the EGR and the unit (don't know what it's called) which bolts to the cylinder head? with three bolts.

Where does the square plate fit?

Right next to the EGR, instead of the factory seal...(on a 16V engine...)

Showing fault p0380 which I think is a glow plug issue and if so, wouldn't be affecting the performance me thinks.

Fault cleared and now puffing out black smoke and still lacking power.

Also, when revved and stationary, I can put my foot to the floor and the revs sometimes dont increase at all. Back off for a second or two, and it will rev through the range.

Is it worth a blanking plate where the exhaust connecting pipe runs into the EGR or should I just smash the £$%&*(()) thing to pieces?

Right!

I'm now told that the large pipe that runs from the intercooler to the turbo is the wrong type and is therefore collapsing on boost.

Mine is ribbed and I'm assured it should be a straight hose, similar to a radiator hose only obviously larger. It should also have some metal reinforcement/meshing inside the hose, apparently.

Would this be right?

I'm hoping so as this would be an easy, cheap fix (fingers/everything crossed!).

Cheers.