Technical Rear wheel bearing nut torque setting.
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Technical Rear wheel bearing nut torque setting.
The way I did it, the bearing popped in half very easily (outer race stayed attached to the hub by the wheel location studs). That left the inner race to get off of the hub:
I was surprised at how easily this came off. Just take your time and try to keep it aligned with the axle - once skewed, it jams very firmly in place. The red circle shows the ABS sensor. This is fragile and expensive, so avoid knocking it at all costs.
I was surprised at how easily this came off. Just take your time and try to keep it aligned with the axle - once skewed, it jams very firmly in place. The red circle shows the ABS sensor. This is fragile and expensive, so avoid knocking it at all costs.
Update: bearing done! 
Easy, apart from the inner ball race which clung firmly to the axle.
- Brake drum came off easily - no appreciable wear on the inside to make it difficult.
- Needed my DIY puller to pull the hub off the axle. It worked.
- Not having a puller for the inner ball race, I used a variety of tools to move it off the axle. Took 30 mins to do this. Once off I could see there was rust making the job harder. I found that prizing didn't work, required driving blunt wedge-shaped tools between the inner race and the backplate.
- Torqued the axle nut up to 210Nm, the max for my wrench, then used my wrench extension handle (a pipe) for the remaining Nm, as someone else recommended.
When tested, the wheel rotated unevenly (making a scraping noise at one point in the rotation), but a few stabs on the brake pedal settled the pads. Wheel now turning smoothly.
Total time: 2.5 hours (long time since I've done a wheel bearing).
Verdict: Straightforward, would have been easier if I'd had a puller for the inner race.
Cost: £10 - for 32mm socket and parts for DIY puller (saved £30, of £40 quoted for labour).
Can't believe how much noise and vibration the knackered bearing created, even my rear-view mirror was vibrating, I thought the exhaust had gone! Cause: the inner race was mangled (See pic below).
I now have my quiet, smooth-operating Multipla back.
Pics to follow.
Mark
Easy, apart from the inner ball race which clung firmly to the axle.
- Brake drum came off easily - no appreciable wear on the inside to make it difficult.
- Needed my DIY puller to pull the hub off the axle. It worked.
- Not having a puller for the inner ball race, I used a variety of tools to move it off the axle. Took 30 mins to do this. Once off I could see there was rust making the job harder. I found that prizing didn't work, required driving blunt wedge-shaped tools between the inner race and the backplate.
- Torqued the axle nut up to 210Nm, the max for my wrench, then used my wrench extension handle (a pipe) for the remaining Nm, as someone else recommended.
When tested, the wheel rotated unevenly (making a scraping noise at one point in the rotation), but a few stabs on the brake pedal settled the pads. Wheel now turning smoothly.
Total time: 2.5 hours (long time since I've done a wheel bearing).
Verdict: Straightforward, would have been easier if I'd had a puller for the inner race.
Cost: £10 - for 32mm socket and parts for DIY puller (saved £30, of £40 quoted for labour).
Can't believe how much noise and vibration the knackered bearing created, even my rear-view mirror was vibrating, I thought the exhaust had gone! Cause: the inner race was mangled (See pic below).
I now have my quiet, smooth-operating Multipla back.
Pics to follow.
Mark
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