I have an 03 Multipla 1.9jtd with about 110k on the clock. My battery seemed to be running down as the car is left for a week at a time. I put a new battery in and then the alternator light came on. Booked it in for replacement and when I started the car up to go to the garage, the alternator light did not come on. So i did not get the alternator changed. Car has been fine for a few weeks battery staying charged and no alternator light. Today it came on again! When I look at the pulley that drives the alternator, the pulley is turning but not the central boss part. Is there some sort of clutch mechanism between the pulley and the shaft of the alternator?
thanks for any help - even if you have bad news for me!!

The pulley has a freewheel built in. This is supposed to reduce the shock loading on the belt between power on and off. It should grip in normal direction of rotation, but spin freely the opposite way.

The freewheel pulley is available on Ebay, but is nearly as much as a used alternator, which of course has one on. To change the pulley, you'll also need a special tool with splines. My advice would be to get a used alternator off Ebay. There were several around last week, ranging from £35 upwards, but one went to another forum member.

Thanks a lot for that. One question though, can you explain how the alternator light came on but then went off again? If the freewheel or alternator had failed, the light would stay on surely.....

....also, is it possible to change the pulley without removing the alternator? Where can I get the splined tool from? It looks like changing the alternator would be tricky.
It maybe that the alternator has a problem that caused the pulley freewheel to fail I guess....

See this thread:https://www.fiatforum.com/multipla/342021-urgently-belt-noise-smoke-burning-smell-bad-right.html

This lady has had a similar problem, caused by the alternator seizing. So a replacement pulley would not have fixed anything.
If your freewheel has let go, so the belt spins but the alternator does not, then a new pulley should fix it. If however, your alternator has seized a bearing, a complete alternator is the way to go.

According to eLearn, the electronic workshop manual, the alternator is removed upwards from behind the engine. The instructions make it look straightforward, but there will probably be much swearing involved.

Pulley Tools - count your splines, then take your pick.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_t..._nkw=freewheel+pulley+tool&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Freewheeling pulleys: Compare the price with alternators.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_t...=multipla+freewheel+pulley&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Alternator comes out through the bottom and my 2002 115 ELX was relatively easy to do. My clutch had failed - but only because the alternator was cracked and split where a bearing failed an seized which destroyed the clutch. My guess is that it is the same as what as happened to yours.
I made sure I bought a used alternator that was exactly similar to my old one - lots of Alfa units [and Ferrari!] have the same serial number which is either 63321826 or 46782213 - it is a Denso unit on my car but it is interchangeable provided the amps are right - the trick is to get the same sized alternator . The rear plastic covers differ but these are easily switched. Just put these numbers in Ebay and buy a good used one. I would not by a pattern unit as these are usually a much bigger [fatter] unit and will not fit back between the drive shaft and steering rack causing you to get into some of the dramas mentioned in these pages.
Not a bad job just a bit fiddly and the bolts holding the alternator are b****y. tight. The job took me two hours in and out.
Good Luck
Stephen

PS: I have eLearn and with all respect to whoever compiled it - it is dead wrong on alternator replacement. There is no space with the great big inlet manifold and all the mixer taps, heated towel rails and other bathroom fittings in the way. It would take forever to do and is not necessary as it is a relative piece of cake getting out through the gap between the driveshaft and steering rack without removing either or mucking about with engine mountings. Just whip out the dipstick tube and the wobbly plastic loom bracket behind the alternator - unlug the speedo plug and there is enough room for the unbolted disconnected alternator to slide out with a bit of a wiggle. I did mine last week so I know this method works. Watch out for the spacer on the top bolt. It falls on the subframe and easy to miss!
Regards
Stephen

The alternator light has gone out again!! I guess it's only a matter of time. I will see if it's charging and keep fingers crossed.
Thanks for the info on changing out the alternator - I'll need it eventually !

Colin Harrison said:

The alternator light has gone out again!! I guess it's only a matter of time. I will see if it's charging and keep fingers crossed.
Thanks for the info on changing out the alternator - I'll need it eventually !

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I'm in the exact same place, know I should get it done but as long as the warning isn't on and the battery stays charged I drive it might go horribly wrong one day.... hopefully not

One year on and the alternator light has stopped coming on !! Long may it last.

Self healing!