Technical Multijet 120 running unevenly 'hunting' on idle

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Technical Multijet 120 running unevenly 'hunting' on idle

Dermot

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Nov 22, 2009
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KIlkenny, Ireland
Hi all,
Our Eleganza 120 mutijet has begun behaving a little erraticaly occasionally; being most noticeable in town driving where the engine threatens to stall on starting from rest in an undiesel-like fashion. When this occurs it also tends to hunt a little on tick-over and there is a smell of partially burned fuel and some smoke from under the car (although not the cause I think the exhaust is leaking a little around the flexible section). When this was occuring in town driving, it also seemed to be using much more fuel as indicated by the fuel consumption meter (yes I know of the inaccurate readings!) heading to between 15 and 20mpg in this situation. Most of the time the engine runs perfectly and there is plenty of power available. The car has 128,000 miles now. at about 50k, the EGR failed in the closed position and has run perfectly so I have left well alone.

I connected a laptop with the multiscan software a few times in the last couple of days. The only error that shows is the EGR valve as to be expected. As I had the capability, I carried out a forced DPF regeneration, but this has made no difference although the smell during the regeneration was not unlike that which occurs when the uneven running occurs. The DPF warning light never came on however and the readings do not indicate a DPF problem.

The only clue on the Multiscan readouts (which I am not skilled on interpreting) are that on tickover, when running erratically, the last two components of the five fuel injection phases ('after' and 'post') had readings of 15.66 and 10.05 respectively on tick-over whereas when running properly these figures were practically zero. Anybody know what this means? Also should I have an oxygen (lambda) reading - the Multiscan indicates no Lambda output at all? How would I know from the Multiscan if one or more of the injectors are faulty? Are there any useful tests to indicate injection function?

Any help would be appreciated. As well as the poor running issue, I am concerned that if there is excess fueling on one of the cylinders, that some harm is being done to the engine.
 
Hi Dermot

This is new one for me with a Mjet engine.

DPF regen, like you have tested will not achieve anything.

I would on the exhaust / fueling front check the following :

Run the engine and disconnect the DPF pre heater sensor and see if you MIL lamp appears on the dashboard. If so, then you know this is working, The plug for it is in the centreline of the collosion bulkhead.

Run the engine and disconnect the Lambda connection that fixes itself to the front flexi pipe, cable runs up past the airbox on a Mjet. Again check that this appears on the dashboard and/or the DPF light comes up.

EGR valve if you have not already done so, may need cleaning and the swirl actuator on the manifold may need unclipping and cleaning as well on a Mjet engine.

Disconnect the MAF, near the air box and go for a drive, any difference ?

Have you changed the fuel filter lately, any waxing appearing ?

Check the fuel manifold pressue / mixture sensor is connected properly and not damp, sits on the fuel rail at the end opposite the battery and underneath the EGR.

Let us know how you get on.
 
Thanks for the helpful info FiatFleetFamily. I will certainly try those checks this weekend and hopefully at least narrow down the problem. Of course it is an intermittent problem with the difficulties which that brings.
 
Thanks mcornellry,
Unfortunately, I am not going to get a chance this weekend to pursue your and FFFs suggestions. But as far as I know, my EGR has not moved in years being stuck in the closed position. Do you think this situation could be changed? Should I look to blank it completely? Is it worth cleaning it etc if it si either blocked or blanked? Will try to get at it over the week.
 
Hi Dermot.
Blank it would be my advice... Don't just blank it with a bit of tin tho in case it gets sucked in or rots.
There are good quality plates for sale cheap on ebay
I blanked mine ages back and runs great.
Marty (limerick)
 
Thanks mcornellry,
Unfortunately, I am not going to get a chance this weekend to pursue your and FFFs suggestions. But as far as I know, my EGR has not moved in years being stuck in the closed position. Do you think this situation could be changed? Should I look to blank it completely? Is it worth cleaning it etc if it si either blocked or blanked? Will try to get at it over the week.

If you do blank it, as I stated for a Mjet, clean out the manifold best you can and the flow actuator swirl flap, which is the housing that attaches to the manifold, opposite the battery.

Then maybe consider a DPF removal and/or a remap afterwards.

Then you will have Alfa Romeo Mjet power !!
 
Hi all,
Feeling bad that I did not update after all the help I got. Well to be honest I had very little time to try the very logical suggestions offered by all particularly FiatFleetFamily and as the car seemed to be running better since the forced DPF re-generation ( although unconvinced that this was the cause), I simply drove on until 3 weeks ago when I decided to get my local mechanic to tackle a few big issues that I knew were needed if I was to run the Multipla for a few more years! Clutch kit and DMF were tackled as they showed usual symptoms - impossible to get reverse with clutch to floor and very obvious DMF vibrations. Renewed slave cylinder also. After failing completely to get bearings out of the trailing arms due to salt corrosion, the complete trailing arms were replaced. Also as the gearbox was coming out, i decided to get the thermostat replaced as the car never got above 1 bar on the temp gauge in the winter and it was freezing inside. In the 120 model, its very difficult to change the stat without the access gearbox removal gives you! We also welded a new flexible section into the exhaust which had been leaking badly.
The results? Clutch is ok although bite point still very near floor - but its much lighter and it is now dis-engaging properly. DMF is fine now and trailing arms will now pass our NCT (our MOT). Unlike some of the threads on the forum , the new thermostat has transformed the winter temp with 4 bars showing and warm air that we never had in the winter for years!! And the original poor running issue?? Well it seems fine now. Not sure why? DPF regen? Flexible exhaust repair? Or could the crankshaft sensor output have been influenced by a badly vibrating DMF? Or is it all just coincidence that the symptoms have disappeared?

And oh yes along with 3 new tyres and a battery, all of this cost quite a bit, so I need the Multipla to go for another 50,000 miles or so with little expenditure!!

Anyway thanks all for the help and no doubt I will be posting again!
Dermot
 
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