Technical Is there a trick to removing muffler hangers?

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Technical Is there a trick to removing muffler hangers?

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or is it just brute force and lots of patience I need to prepare myself for? They look in decent condition so think they can handle it. Question is can I?;)

Planning on replacing rear shocks tomorrow and need the exhaust lowered to get more space....

It's quite tight as it is

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Thanks!
 
Put a little Silicone spray/ WD40 onto the end of the bar that's through the rubber, then work it back and forth with a slight twisting motion, it should eventually slide off fairly easily.
If you have a long thin screwdriver, slip it in between the rubber and the bar and prise a small gap between them, then squirt Silicone/WD40 into the gap and work the screwdriver around the bar.
 
I don't know if the fittings vary from model to model but the rear box on mine is held in place by a very thick rubber band through which a metal hook attached to the rear box goes and another one welded to the rear underside of the car near the bumper. All I did was spray some WD40 on the rubber where the metal hook passes through in order to lubricate it and then just wiggle it off, leaving it attached to the rear silence.

You can then let the rear box hang down a bit and it gives you enough free movement to get behind it to get to that top shock absorber nut easily. Unless you can't avoid it I wouldn't be looking to undo anything further back, it's a bit difficult to make out the bits in your photo, but I managed it easily enough as described and I am a true mechanical numpty!

As per my original post on this, use a hex socket on the shock nuts, they might be really tight and a normal socket might round them off. I gave mine the usual generous helping of WD beforehand. You've probably worked this out already but when you put the new ones in it's a good idea to compress the shocks so that you can get them past the trailing arms etc into their mounting box. Are you doing the springs too?
 
I don't know if the fittings vary from model to model but the rear box on mine is held in place by a very thick rubber band through which a metal hook attached to the rear box goes and another one welded to the rear underside of the car near the bumper. All I did was spray some WD40 on the rubber where the metal hook passes through in order to lubricate it and then just wiggle it off, leaving it attached to the rear silence.

You can then let the rear box hang down a bit and it gives you enough free movement to get behind it to get to that top shock absorber nut easily. Unless you can't avoid it I wouldn't be looking to undo anything further back, it's a bit difficult to make out the bits in your photo, but I managed it easily enough as described and I am a true mechanical numpty!

As per my original post on this, use a hex socket on the shock nuts, they might be really tight and a normal socket might round them off. I gave mine the usual generous helping of WD beforehand. You've probably worked this out already but when you put the new ones in it's a good idea to compress the shocks so that you can get them past the trailing arms etc into their mounting box. Are you doing the springs too?

Thanks! I will do the springs if it seems possible to do them tbh, lol...
 
What on earth is that above the back box? Looks like rear arm/beam with a massive MOT failure hole in it Ahhhh
 
If it was a hole would you not be able to see daylight through it, given the background of the photo...:confused: Looks like paint to me

If you're doing the springs you'll probably need another person to be able to force the trailing arms down to give you enough clearance to lever the bottom of the springs in with a jemmy/breaker bar, unless you go through the effort of trying to get the rear ARB off, I did it by standing on the wheel hub and pushing down while my mate levered the spring in.

Not difficult but you'll need someone with a bit of bodyweight and reasonably strong legs! :)
 
Well, the Subframe is a 'U' section at that point, so there would be some light on the other side, or you could be seeing the black paint on the inside, if there's any in there...

and you are all going to have to carry on living in suspense, :p as I did not do anything on my Multi today, was way too sleepy all day so have slowly started refurbing my alloys instead, then I can sit in one place and work (y)
 
When I was putting my subframe back together I left the springs out to make life easier putting it back onto the car.
Once bolted back in place I used a trolley jack to compress the spring a little and then rolled trolley jack forward and let the spring down onto the trailing arm. Was quite easy( your jack would have to have a cup on it that will catch the back of the spring...leaving the front of the spring un obstructed to mate with the trailing arm on jack release)
Marty.
 
When I was putting my subframe back together I left the springs out to make life easier putting it back onto the car.
Once bolted back in place I used a trolley jack to compress the spring a little and then rolled trolley jack forward and let the spring down onto the trailing arm. Was quite easy( your jack would have to have a cup on it that will catch the back of the spring...leaving the front of the spring un obstructed to mate with the trailing arm on jack release)
Marty.

(y) interesting, must check my jack tomorrow for suitability
 
Just be real careful compressing springs... I had a helper operate the jack while I sat on the ground and pushed the jack forward an inch at a time with both feet.
Jack your car good and high to start with to allow swing arms drop to their mechanical limits.
You shouldn't NEED to remove springs to change shocks.

Also it's worth mentioning that the nut in the top of the shocks is a captive one... Don't try undoing it!!..spin the bolt :)
I can't remember if the bottom one is the same.
Marty.
 
Just be real careful compressing springs... I had a helper operate the jack while I sat on the ground and pushed the jack forward an inch at a time with both feet.

Will find a way to do it when I've got a helper, yes I used spring compressors when replacing the front spring, that was the most horrible job ever and at one point I thought my knuckle was smashed, but I can bend it again so guess not...;)

Also it's worth mentioning that the nut in the top of the shocks is a captive one... Don't try undoing it!!..spin the bolt :)
I can't remember if the bottom one is the same.
Marty.

That's good coz there is no way I could ever get any kind of tool onto that nut at the back, there is just no room.

Anyway all done now, and will do springs when I have a helper...(y)
 
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