Hi All, Need to change berings on both sides, one wheel showing signs of leaning in. I have read lots of helpful posts since joining the Forum with a very detailed post from (simondenison). I am looking for anyone willing to help me with the change as my tools are very limited and need the car when working.
I am willing to travel to anyone willing to help me out, or if anyone knows of a garage that has done this job that i can go to.

I think i also need to change the rear bush on drivers side as knocking when going over bumps, is thisbetter to do when doing bearings and should you do bothsides at same time.

Thanks in advance for any advice or help.
Paul

Your rough location might help

My location is near Burnley Lancashire, but have no problem traveling for help.

I'd strongly advise that before you make the journey to get this sorted, you should see if the pivot bolts are free to move.
They can seize in so solidly that removing the subframe is the only real option to get them out, as you have to carefully cut through the bolts to remove the arms and replace the bearings.

It's easy enough to check, just jack the rear wheels off the ground on any point other than the trailing arms themselves (you don't want any extra load on the pivots).
Then loosen the pivot bolt nut by a few turns, and try to move it (hit the nut end with an Alloy or Wood drift, so you don't damage the nut).

If the bolt moves fairly easily, then you're half way there.

I welded a large bolt onto the head of my bolts, so I could use an 8-ton hydraulic puller, didn't budge, it just ripped the welded bolt off, and it was a pretty good weld . . .

Before the puller, I'd tried belting them with a full sized sledge-hammer, using a four-foot long 2" diameter steel bar from the opposite side of the car.
I was hitting them so hard that the car was shifting a few inches sideways (axle stands and jack on concrete floor) with each blow, and the side of the subframe were starting to bend...:bang:

If the bolts are seized solid, and you're going to replace the bushes as well (yes, I'd do both sides), you may as well bite the bullet and just remove the subframe, it will probably save you time in the end.

thanks for advise, will take a look tomorrow, will need to get a 24mm long socket as my tools are limited at moment.
I have had a price from local garage £208.00 inc vat fitted 2 new arms, seems goods as arms are costing £122.80 inc vat.

That price could rise significantly though if they have the trouble I did...

If the arms are OK, you only need replace the bearings, should be less than £40 for the complete set (to do both sides).

Bearings on ebay at the moment for roughly £15 each side delivered...

Hi,

Thanks to all who posted help and advise, i got the rear bearing repair kit fitted by local garage for £100.00 took him ay and a half to do.

He said the bolts were a (beep beep) to get out, but did not charge me any more which was good. Only problem now is the ABS comes up system fault and light on display, he said i needa new rear drivers side sensor.

Will be posting again when comes to doing rear front bush and exhaust.

Paul

Think you are looking at another £30-40 for a sensor...
I passed someone this morning on the M11 and his drivers side wheel had terrible lean! Makes me less worried about mine..as its only slight..

ptk68 said:

...the ABS comes up system fault and light on display...

Click to expand...

Did he say if the sensor itself was damaged (like if he tried to remove it)?

If the sensor is OK, it may just be the wires that are damaged, and that's fixable...
ABS Sensor 'recovery'

boilermansab said:

... Makes me less worried about mine..as its only slight..

Click to expand...

The thing is, even a slight lean means the bearings are already in poor condition, and more importantly that the seals are too, meaning you're getting water/cr*p in there, accelerating the corrosion and wear rapidly.
The longer you leave it, the worse it'll be to fix...trust me!

I wish I'd done mine as soon as the lean was evident...:bang:

BikeDoc said:

The thing is, even a slight lean means the bearings are already in poor condition, and more importantly that the seals are too, meaning you're getting water/cr*p in there, accelerating the corrosion and wear rapidly.
The longer you leave it, the worse it'll be to fix...trust me!

I wish I'd done mine as soon as the lean was evident...:bang:

Click to expand...

I am just doing my bearings the wheels was fine until i started carrying heavy inflatables and now the drivers side tyre is touching the wheel arch

Tried helium in the inflatables?

I'll get my coat.....