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Technical JTD CV Joints

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Technical JTD CV Joints

widemouthfrog

widemouthfrog

semper in merda
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Can these be any good?:

http://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk/fiat-multipla-1-9jtd-cv-joint-brand-new-99-onwards/

£19 inc. VAT and delivery, complete with hub nut, boot kit and grease seems very, very cheap to me. The hub nut and boot kit alone would set you back around £9-10. That means you get the CV joint for £9! If anyone's already bought one, let us know your thoughts.

Good-name new front wheel bearings (ABS type) can be had for about £15-20 on ebay from time to time and S4P sell the hub flange for £12.60 inc. VAT. That means you can renew the whole front axle 'turning' parts for less than £100 inc. VAT & del. That's pretty good value.
 
Finally got around to ordering the CV joints. Delivery was very quick and order confirmation, tracking and follow up was almost obsessive.

The joints themselves look to be pretty good. The boot and hub nut is of good quality. The acid test will come when I find the time to fit them......

IMG_6421_zpse6f71fdf.jpg


IMG_6423_zpsd714fb68.jpg
 
Ive used J and R engineering quite a few times. Very good products that all come with a 2 year warentee. Ive never needed to use the warentee as every part they have supplied is still going strong. Ive just got a inner CV gater from them. Cheap as chips and again with a 2 year warentee. They are very quite at sending the items out aswell. I ordered sunday. Had them tuesday morning. Its usually next day but sunday does not count as a day
 
Karma, it's a b*tch :rolleyes:

Was checking my front Disc Pads a couple of days ago, and having a general check around the other bits and pieces with the wheel off, and found the left outer CV Boot split (n)

Looks like I might be ordering some now too.

Did you fit yours yet WMF?
 
No, not had time yet. I get a nice knocking on RH bends now :(.

I bought a CV joint puller to help me do the job. Looks like a simple but effective bit of kit. Will post pictures when I get around to it.

If you've only got a split boot, why don't you just replace that with a stretch-over one?
 
I could do I guess, but the joint in question does give a very slight clunking on full right lock, so it's probably getting close to needing doing anyway.
If I have to pull the shaft (there's that sniggering again :rolleyes:), I may as well replace it, for the price.
 
Whipped my Shaft out today...OK, I'll stop now.

Should have undone the Hub Nut first really, but started with the six Allen Bolts that hold the inner CV to the Gearbox output flange.
Took the hub off complete and stripped it down in my Workshop.

This is the inner CV, I was expecting a Ball type, but I guess it's not needed for the relatively small deflection at that point.
Circlip secures the 'spider' to the shaft.


This is my method for undoing the Hub Nut, can be used equally well on or off the car.
I have a Socket welded to another piece of Box-Section, approx four feet long.


This is the Circlip that secures the outer CV onto the shaft, just pry apart with a couple of screwdrivers and yank on the shaft (oh, grow up!).
Another pair of hands is useful, but you can do it yourself by prying apart with a Screwdriver enough to get a pair of Circlip Pliers in there.


The end of the Shaft has a chamfer on it, so to refit you just push it into the Splines until it clicks into the Circlip.
Means you can fit the Boot to the body of the Joint, fill it with Grease, then just slide the Shaft in without making a mess.
 
Thanks BD. Did the outer CV come away easily once you'd got the circlip off? Also, what are you bolting the other end of the square tube to?
 
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The Circlip is 'captive', it stays in place in the groove in the CV once the Shaft is removed.
The Shaft comes out very easily, as long as the Circlip is fully opened, the legs (here we go again!) need to be spread just-about as far as they will go, i.e. to the sides of the reccess they sit in.

I had the box-section in the Vice, and just pulled the one with the socket on it towards it, like a giant pair of Pliers.
If doing it on the car, you can do the same, or just let it rest on the ground.
You could do it without a vice, or it being on the car.
Once the wheel bolt is done up tight, the hub is held securely, you could just lay it on the ground with the box-section on a couple of blocks (to keep the Hub Mount Lug, and Steering Arm, off the ground).
You need to get the centre (Wheel Boss) flange on the Hub touching the box-section before you tighten the Bolt, although if you didn't, it would just move round until it was anyway, the bolt won't stop it by itself.
 
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I like the idea of the piece of box section bolted to the flange because it's a pain getting at the locking bolt with the wheel on. I've started work on my car, a simple wishbone replacement or so I thought, I've done these before three times without any trouble but this time the bottom pinch bolt broke first when I tried to remove the nut, I thought that's no problem I'll just get it turning and by the bolt head and then knock it out but the bolt head also snapped off, I also wanted to replace a leaky cv joint boot but the abs sensor broke when I tried to remove it (I should have just cut the wire and re joined it on assembly) it's just two wires black and white under the thick outer cable the head also snapped on the abs sensor retaining bolt, I'll drill it out and re tap it, that's it I can press the lower ball joint pinch bolt out, I don't like the price of the sensors so I try and modify/fix it. I just cut through the old wishbone for quickness as it was scrap. There's a complete front hub with abs cable on ebay but it's for the 16v petrol model, does anyone know it these are the same as a JTD 115?
 
BikeDoc said:
Whipped my Shaft out today...OK, I'll stop now.

Should have undone the Hub Nut first really, but started with the six Allen Bolts that hold the inner CV to the Gearbox output flange.
Took the hub off complete and stripped it down in my Workshop.

This is the inner CV, I was expecting a Ball type, but I guess it's not needed for the relatively small deflection at that point.
Circlip secures the 'spider' to the shaft.


This is my method for undoing the Hub Nut, can be used equally well on or off the car.
I have a Socket welded to another piece of Box-Section, approx four feet long.


This is the Circlip that secures the outer CV onto the shaft, just pry apart with a couple of screwdrivers and yank on the shaft (oh, grow up!).
Another pair of hands is useful, but you can do it yourself by prying apart with a Screwdriver enough to get a pair of Circlip Pliers in there.


The end of the Shaft has a chamfer on it, so to refit you just push it into the Splines until it clicks into the Circlip.
Means you can fit the Boot to the body of the Joint, fill it with Grease, then just slide the Shaft in without making a mess.
Click to expand...

Does anyone know which page of eper this is shown on? Is the tripod joint just on the NS?
 
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Thanks BD. Does the OS have one though, as that's fitted with the jack shaft that runs to the fixed bearing support? Then there's a 'normal' CV joint fitted on the wheel-side of the support bearing? Can't get at the car atm as I'm away from home.

Eper's not very clear for this one. Item 8 in 1/4 is the only thing that looks as though it could be the housing for the tripod bearing, but it hasn't got the six flange holes, so I don't think it is :confused:
 
Last edited:
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