Technical EGR Valve (Electrical type)

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Technical EGR Valve (Electrical type)

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May 10, 2007
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I have a 2000(Y) 110 JTD, which has recently started to lose low end power- typically emerging from a junction in the path of a juggernaut was becoming quite exciting!
It seemed from previous posts that the EGR was at fault- the "floor it in neutral for a few seconds" trick cured it temporarily.
It seems there are two types of EGR- one is located at the front right of the engine, is vacuum operated, and is easy to get at. The other sort is at the middle rear of the engine, and is operated electrically- under the control of a vacuum sensing unit.
The purpose of the EGR is to control exhaust emissions by feeding burnt exhaust gases back into the inlet manifold. If the valve sticks open- the engine is breathing exhaust gas all the time- particularly noticeable at low revs, so this matches my symptoms.
My engine has the electrical type EGR, and I decided to have a look at it. It's quite easy to see after the engine top shield is removed. Its held on by allen bolts to the manifold, and also bolts to the exhaust gas feeder pipe. I could see that getting the whole unit off would involve getting to some pretty inaccessible places, so decided to split the EGR valve is situ.
There are two halves to the valve- the solenoid unit and the exhaust valve itself. The two are held together by 4 small allen bolts, which are relatively easy to undo. The electrical connection to the adjacent MAP sensor is best removed to improve access. The electrical connection to the solenoid bit of the EGR is best removed when the 4 bolts are undone and the solenoid lifts out, then you can see the cunning latch that holds the connector together.
With the EGR in two bits- you can see how it works- there is a pin emerging from the solenoid that pushes a plunger on the valve bit. With the connectors back in place, and with the engine running- I could feel the solenoid working as the engine was revved up and let fall back to idle, so that half was working. I prodded the valve plunger a few times to free it and with engine at idle, pushing the plunger altered the engine note noticeably, so that bit was working too. I assume the plunger had seized. I used a fair bit of carb cleaner on both halves, working the plunger and pin while soaking in cleaner.
I reassembled and the engine started and ran. I had read that the MAF sensor and EGR work hand in hand, so tried pulling off the connector to the MAF sensor with the engine idling- there was a definite change in engine note as I did this, so I assume all was working correctly.
Anyway, a road test showed the car was back to it's old self, with much improved low end pickup.:)
How long it will stay this way is another question, but at least I can order a replacement and fit it myself if it goes again.
HTH
Neil
 
So whats's this then?


(It's from the Multipla workshop CD, under the EGR R&R section.....)
 

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I just checked & your right but I have only seen the electric ones at back (right) of engine even on early models:confused:

Manuals state older pierburg EGR as fitted yet diagrams (wiring) indicate electric EGR for same model/year:confused:

Only seen vacuum operate EGRs on scudo/ulysse.
 
So whats's this then?


(It's from the Multipla workshop CD, under the EGR R&R section.....)

I've just bought a 2000 jtd multipla with the vacuum egr, it appears to be working, but I've low power and can't say I've ever heard or felt the turbo kick in, suggestions welcome!!!
 
For those of us with vacuum operated egr valves, they are relatively easy to take off (with the right size spanners and sockets and extensions) Mine was working fine if a little dirty. My Multipla also had no power to speak of especially at the traffic lights. My cure was simply to disconnect th MAF sensor. Next best thing to Magic!
 
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