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Seicento Rescued Schumacher Edition Sei

Introduction

Hi all, returning to the forum after a long hiatus (other cars owned/moving house/bereavement/graduation, etc, etc).

My returning area of business is that I've just bought my Niece's Seicento Michael Schumacher Edition from her when she happened to post on her Facebook page that she was going to scrap it after it received a "poor bill of health" from her local mechanic after taking it for a check when she noticed it had been overheating and generally becoming unreliable.

She has owned it for a few years and I must admit to being a bit envious of it as I like the Sei and I like Michael Schumacher, so I wasn't passing up the opportunity. However, I was sceptical that it was a genuine Schumacher Edition, but the logbook seems to support this. I haven't actually seen the car to check for the edition number, etc. I hope to bring it to my lockup from where it is currently parked, a journey of ~240 miles. The poor bugger also seems to be having an identity crisis with its badging - the Fiat, Seicento and Sporting badges have been removed by an earlier keeper, a gigantic Michael Schumacher decal has been put on the back window (the factory fit one was too subtle for someone I guess) and there are Abarth stickers all over it. I know that the Schumacher/Abarth kit are the same, but I don't think the car left the factory with both!

The wheels have been painted black, although it is not possible to tell from the level of detail in the photos if it is a good job. The centre caps seem to have been painted over...

Here are the known issues with the car at present:

Niece's mechanic findings (his words)
  • Car overheating in traffic - coolant fan needed
  • fuel injection kit needed
  • starter kit needed

I'm not sure how much credibility to place in these findings- fuel injection and starter "kits"... :confused:

From past experience, heuristically, I would say it is more likely that:
  • The fan fuse, otterstat or fan wiring/multiplug is faulty.
  • 1 or more injectors have failed or that the car is in limp mode (see last MOT findings below).
  • I'm not sure what the starter issue may be, possibly starter motor earthing/battery contacts.

Last MOT Advisory Items (March 2014):

  1. OSR wheel bearing slight play
  2. OSF ball joint dust cover damaged
  3. OSR suspension arm bush deteriorated
  4. Engine management light on
  5. Sill covers fitted
  6. Slight knock from steering
  7. OSR knocking
  8. Lights and battery secured with cable ties

The MOT issuer is the same individual who came up with the items in the first list. It seems fairly likely that items 3 and 6 are related and that item 4 is related to one or more presenting behaviours. Two things amuse me from this - Firstly, "Sill covers fitted" (unsure if kick plates or side skirts are being referred-to). I would not have expected a factory-fitted item to flag an MOT advisory. Secondly "Lights and battery secured with cable ties". The previous MOT lists "battery not secured" and it is this garage who fitted the cable ties! My faith in this garage's competency is fragile at best.

Other items:
  • Possible speedometer inaccuracy (reading lower than actual speed). My niece noted this when driving the car on the motorway, followed by her partner in another car. She noted that the speed error was around 10MPH too slow. The standard wheels and tyres are fitted, so I must consider that the speed sensor or speedometer are faulty. I am wondering if this sensor could throw up and engine management light.
  • Front bumper tow-eye insert loose. it's difficult to tell from the photos, I am unsure if this is the insert or damage to the bumper itself. My niece has decided to secure it with highly covert black insulation tape.

I intend to the read the ECU fault codes when I get to the car. I must also consider that the car may have been cooked from overheating, possibly resulting in head gasket failure, which I will assess with a compression check and coolant/oil inspection. I shall check the speedo accuracy with a satnav.

I'm really looking forward to cracking on with this :D
Replaced the engine mount - the new one has bits the old one must have lost. Also replaced the engine mount..... mount. The sagging was indeed due to the (poorly) re-welded captive nut breaking at some point during a bodge-a-rama. There was even a weird-looking bracket which was used a repair washer.
 

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I have just taken delivery of a whole set of parts for the Sei. I'm replacing the front wishbones, throttle cable, clutch cable as well as the radiator and several other parts, all with new bolts, washers and nuts.

I ordered the parts from Euro-Forin which featured many parts that I couldn't find elsewhere. They only accept bank transfer, but I found that TransferWise was the best service to handle that and charged a measly £2 for the privilege (compared to the £40 my bank wanted).

The agents who work for Euro-Forin were very professional, had great communication, packaged the parts well (especially the radiator) and dispatched quickly. The parts are also OEM and new. I would highly recommend them, and I will use this site again.

Update on part fitment coming soon.
 
Thank you, I appreciate that. Yes, the person responsible for working on it should be banned from working on cars.

I now have a whole array of parts to fit and unfortunately not enough free time to do so :D

Are you working on your car at present too?
 
After getting a persistent "random/multiple misfire" error with my reader, a little forum search revealed that this is possibly down to a cam to crank phase issue.

I have removed the cambelt upper and lower covers and firstly, using a crank datum photo from the forum, I did my best to align the pulley with correct point on the casting:

20180325_173736_Large_.jpg


The new engine mount can also be seen here (I forgot to get a picture last time).


The resultant cam pulley marking with the head datum looks bang-on:

20180325_173806_Large_1.jpg



As I found the crank position to be a bit ambiguous (and I was constantly checking the cam pulley for confirmation), I decided to use the flywheel timing mark to get a second opinion on this:

0270.JPG


The cam pulley, depending on viewing position, could be 1-tooth out? Is this a parallax viewing error or does it look correct?

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Perhaps the easiest way of checking is to advance the cam pulley by 1 tooth and retest!
 
So, as there are a number of issues to deal with under there (snapped wing bolts whose heads were glued back on by the previous owner's mechanic, timing belt, water pump, radiator, swollen brake line, brakes, suspension, bushes and general rust prevention), I decided to remove the wing:

DSCN2813_Large_.JPG


Time to remove the strut!
 
On to the radiator. As an SPI radiator had been butchered into the car, of course it turns out that the SPI radiator and mounts are different to the MPI items:

20180325_175931_Large_.jpg


...compared to...

20180325_180044_Large_.jpg


The new radiator came from Euroforin. Looks like I'll have a repeat visit soon to get the bushings.

Mystery time:

There seems to be an oddity with eper as the following (marked as M3 'MPI') looks more like the SPI unit, with part# 5, the inner bushing looking like the top-hat style bushings therein:

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Quantity is listed as '1' and is the same part that I am removing, but, as shown is waaay to large an ID to correctly support this.

Yet in this picture, also listed as M3 'MPI', the outer and inner bushings are depicted as a jagged-circumference type with a matching diameter to the smaller MPI mounting spigots (yet this, part# 4, is also listed as having a quantity of 1!)

2263.JPG


Any ideas folks?
 
After a long think about the car, I decided not to undertake any further work on the suspension or brakes until I knew more about the "multiple miss-fire" engine management light problem, as I don't want to do a whole bunch of work, then have to undo some or all of it to give more room for an engine drop.

Last week I advanced the cam pulley by 1 tooth, replaced and tensioned the old cam belt back up (it was slack) and I reasoned that there is no point in buying any engine parts if there are larger problems at play with it. i then replaced the old radiator and pipework and fired the car up.

The engine management light is now off. Therefore, I can only conclude that the crank/cam phase was out.

I let the car warm up to operating temperature and I am also pleased to report that the fan control circuit, which I previously returned to standard, is also now working.

I've ordered a number of things from Euro-Forin to replace decrepit parts. Once again, exemplary efficiency, great prices, rare parts and a straightforward process to deal with our Polish friends.
 
Thank you - I feel really sorry for it, with all the substandard work it has had in the past.

I'll update in the next few days with some progress.

At least the car is in good hands now and should be around for many years to come and not on the scrap heap.
 
Got the driver-side window replaced out (the old one was scratched so badly that it looked like it had been attached by a robot tiger) and while doing so serviced the cables and channels of the winder mechanism. I also replaced the window seals along the door as the original units both had the rubber lip removed.

I can only guess that it was some kind of bodge in order to reduce friction on the glass. It then looks like grit has got into the remainder of the strip on the outside and scratched the unit.

Strips off and paintwork cleaned:

20180505_195510_Large_.jpg


Down the winder mechanism:

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New external strip on:

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Winding mechanism carriage to which the window attaches. I was laughing pretty had at the little cheeky E.T. face peering out at me:

20180505_195540_Large_.jpg
 
After getting a persistent "random/multiple misfire" error with my reader, a little forum search revealed that this is possibly down to a cam to crank phase issue.

I have removed the cambelt upper and lower covers and firstly, using a crank datum photo from the forum, I did my best to align the pulley with correct point on the casting:

20180325_173736_Large_.jpg


The new engine mount can also be seen here (I forgot to get a picture last time).


The resultant cam pulley marking with the head datum looks bang-on:

20180325_173806_Large_1.jpg



As I found the crank position to be a bit ambiguous (and I was constantly checking the cam pulley for confirmation), I decided to use the flywheel timing mark to get a second opinion on this:

0270.JPG


The cam pulley, depending on viewing position, could be 1-tooth out? Is this a parallax viewing error or does it look correct?

1455.JPG


2262.JPG


3192.JPG


Perhaps the easiest way of checking is to advance the cam pulley by 1 tooth and retest!

Can you give me the part number for the engine mounts o/s and n/s?

Thanks
 
Thanks Jamie, much appreciated. (y)

Couldn't get 5th on my son's car so I adjusted the cable at the gearbox and it seems that something still isn't quite right.
After several fine adjustments back and forth, I can get 5th fine and virtually no reverse or reverse and virtually no 5th gear. Some forum members said could be n/s engine mounting. Not had chance to have a look yet.

Any ideas what could cause this other than a bad engine mounting?
 
You are very welcome - glad you got the mirror fixed too, good job.

Only things I can think are (in increasing difficulty/cost):

1. Lubricate the ball-joint at base of the gear-stick (not sure what is recommended officially, but I have used Lithium white grease for similar jobs in the past).
2. Lubricate as much of the inner cables as possible (also with same grease).
3. Check the little arms to which the cables connect are moving freely and swivelling properly - same grease again if required (I recommend it since it does not damage rubber).
4. Gearbox oil check/change.
5. Clutch cable adjustment.
6. Clutch issue.
7. Gearbox issue.
 
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