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Seicento Rescued Schumacher Edition Sei

Introduction

Hi all, returning to the forum after a long hiatus (other cars owned/moving house/bereavement/graduation, etc, etc).

My returning area of business is that I've just bought my Niece's Seicento Michael Schumacher Edition from her when she happened to post on her Facebook page that she was going to scrap it after it received a "poor bill of health" from her local mechanic after taking it for a check when she noticed it had been overheating and generally becoming unreliable.

She has owned it for a few years and I must admit to being a bit envious of it as I like the Sei and I like Michael Schumacher, so I wasn't passing up the opportunity. However, I was sceptical that it was a genuine Schumacher Edition, but the logbook seems to support this. I haven't actually seen the car to check for the edition number, etc. I hope to bring it to my lockup from where it is currently parked, a journey of ~240 miles. The poor bugger also seems to be having an identity crisis with its badging - the Fiat, Seicento and Sporting badges have been removed by an earlier keeper, a gigantic Michael Schumacher decal has been put on the back window (the factory fit one was too subtle for someone I guess) and there are Abarth stickers all over it. I know that the Schumacher/Abarth kit are the same, but I don't think the car left the factory with both!

The wheels have been painted black, although it is not possible to tell from the level of detail in the photos if it is a good job. The centre caps seem to have been painted over...

Here are the known issues with the car at present:

Niece's mechanic findings (his words)
  • Car overheating in traffic - coolant fan needed
  • fuel injection kit needed
  • starter kit needed

I'm not sure how much credibility to place in these findings- fuel injection and starter "kits"... :confused:

From past experience, heuristically, I would say it is more likely that:
  • The fan fuse, otterstat or fan wiring/multiplug is faulty.
  • 1 or more injectors have failed or that the car is in limp mode (see last MOT findings below).
  • I'm not sure what the starter issue may be, possibly starter motor earthing/battery contacts.

Last MOT Advisory Items (March 2014):

  1. OSR wheel bearing slight play
  2. OSF ball joint dust cover damaged
  3. OSR suspension arm bush deteriorated
  4. Engine management light on
  5. Sill covers fitted
  6. Slight knock from steering
  7. OSR knocking
  8. Lights and battery secured with cable ties

The MOT issuer is the same individual who came up with the items in the first list. It seems fairly likely that items 3 and 6 are related and that item 4 is related to one or more presenting behaviours. Two things amuse me from this - Firstly, "Sill covers fitted" (unsure if kick plates or side skirts are being referred-to). I would not have expected a factory-fitted item to flag an MOT advisory. Secondly "Lights and battery secured with cable ties". The previous MOT lists "battery not secured" and it is this garage who fitted the cable ties! My faith in this garage's competency is fragile at best.

Other items:
  • Possible speedometer inaccuracy (reading lower than actual speed). My niece noted this when driving the car on the motorway, followed by her partner in another car. She noted that the speed error was around 10MPH too slow. The standard wheels and tyres are fitted, so I must consider that the speed sensor or speedometer are faulty. I am wondering if this sensor could throw up and engine management light.
  • Front bumper tow-eye insert loose. it's difficult to tell from the photos, I am unsure if this is the insert or damage to the bumper itself. My niece has decided to secure it with highly covert black insulation tape.

I intend to the read the ECU fault codes when I get to the car. I must also consider that the car may have been cooked from overheating, possibly resulting in head gasket failure, which I will assess with a compression check and coolant/oil inspection. I shall check the speedo accuracy with a satnav.

I'm really looking forward to cracking on with this :D
hi,
A VIC check is just that.. to make sure it's the vehicle the log book says it is..,

Shouldn't be a problem.. worth checking the vin plate + engine number yourself now though..against v5 / logbook,;)
Charlie

I hope it's that straightforward. On the letter, it says

"...take the form and fee to the VIC centre where you wish the test to be carried out, either

  • Lisburn
  • Londonderry"

Now both of these places are in Northern Island and the car is in Central Scotland and I am in North East Scotland. Is it safe to assume that they've just given weird choices, and in fact, I could take it to anyVIC centre (Edinburgh, Glasgow, Perth, etc)?
 
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Awesome - thanks for finding that great information. Upon re-reading, the letter says IF one lives in Northern Ireland then the centres are at Lisburn and Londonderry. Silly me skip-reading.

Yes, the nearest one to where the car is now is Perth.

Got more information from my Niece - the insurers got on board with the car when someone reversed into the driver door in a car park. At that point they mentioned to her that the car had previously a write off (presumably a previous owner). This news does not fill me with joy, but if it has been repaired properly then I guess it's ok as I intend to keep it until it is unserviceable. But still :cry:

In any case, I am wondering if an RAC check would reveal any more information on the matter.
 
Quote: "DVLA will not issue a new registration document or vehicle excise duty license until the car passes a VIC"
If your niece has used it it for several years then it must have had a VIC check already, so you shouldn't need one :confused:

As varescrazy pointed out any car suffering cat C, cat B, or cat A damage then the information will be displayed on the V5c.

RAC check? WHY?? They only use the info DVLA supply & you can get that yourself for free. If you're desperate to throw money away then lob it in my direction (y)
 
Quote: "DVLA will not issue a new registration document or vehicle excise duty license until the car passes a VIC"
If your niece has used it it for several years then it must have had a VIC check already, so you shouldn't need one :confused:

Yes - this is my exact thought process. I will call the DVLA tomorrow to discuss this.


Quote: As varescrazy pointed out any car suffering cat C, cat B, or cat A damage then the information will be displayed on the V5c.

There didn't appear to be any additional notes along these lines that I noticed, but I may be wrong.


Quote:
RAC check? WHY?? They only use the info DVLA supply & you can get that yourself for free. If you're desperate to throw money away then lob it in my direction (y)

I thought it might reveal a bit more detail on the nature and history of the event, but now I've read a bit more about it, it seems as though only the insurer who wrote it off knows. If I ever happen to have even an inkling of spare cash, my missus senses it and it is gone within nanoseconds :(
 
Quote: "DVLA will not issue a new registration document or vehicle excise duty license until the car passes a VIC"
If your niece has used it it for several years then it must have had a VIC check already, so you shouldn't need one :confused:

As varescrazy pointed out any car suffering cat C, cat B, or cat A damage then the information will be displayed on the V5c.

RAC check? WHY?? They only use the info DVLA supply & you can get that yourself for free. If you're desperate to throw money away then lob it in my direction (y)

Anything above CAT C, the car can not be put back onto the road so i dont think it will say on the V5.

VIC is just a identity check nothing more to it. I guess you still got current MOT?
 
Anything above CAT C, the car can not be put back onto the road so i dont think it will say on the V5.

VIC is just a identity check nothing more to it. I guess you still got current MOT?
Yeah, i didn't word that very well.... all cars of Cat A, B, or C will have a VIC marker, but only Cat C can repaired & used on the road again. The fact that the vehicle has been 'repaired' should be noted on the V5c section 3 Special Notes. In DVLA's rush to replace the blue V5 with the red V5c the information was not always carried across, & there has always been a woeful lack of info swopping between insurance companies & DVLA.
According to every source i can find a VIC check will show if the vehicle has a VIC marker.
 
Yeah, i didn't word that very well.... all cars of Cat A, B, or C will have a VIC marker, but only Cat C can repaired & used on the road again. The fact that the vehicle has been 'repaired' should be noted on the V5c section 3 Special Notes. In DVLA's rush to replace the blue V5 with the red V5c the information was not always carried across, & there has always been a woeful lack of info swopping between insurance companies & DVLA.
According to every source i can find a VIC check will show if the vehicle has a VIC marker.

Correct..!!

I read this month of moves to scrap the VIC checks..they have something like a 0.01 success rate..

brought in to stop "ringers" - but stolen vehicles just get exported :(

speak to the DVLA.. could well have been sent out in error.. plenty of that around unfortunately..!!,
Charlie
 
Update:

I travelled to see the car a couple of weekends ago with the intention of rectifying as many problems with it that I could in the 2 days I was there.

Unfortunately, the mini driver CD for my OBD cable was not readable so I couldn't read the ECU, which I was plenty peeved about.

I then took a trip to the scrapyard to get the bits that were missing/broken: a battery clamp and parcel shelf, 2 new headlight units (both self-levelling tilt mechanisms were broken on the original pair and were stupidly cable-tied into a fixed, but entirely wrong, position), steering column upper and lower shrouds to replace the abominable hack to operate the fan (more below). I also got the multiplug and some wiring for the otterstat. The aircleaner had damaged securing lugs (and was, yep, cable-tied down) so I got a new one of those too.

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The reason the fan is not working is there is a wiring fault or inoperative otterstat. In order to overcome this, rather than effect a proper repair, some idiot ran seriously heavy wiring straight from the positive of the battery, over the A-pillar, under the door seal to a pull-switch on the column shroud lower, then back out of the cabin to the otterstat on the radiator and to the fan. This assumes the switch is working though as it is wired in series. The wire was unfused - how this car didn't burst into flames is a miracle.

2014-09-22_10_58_52.jpg


2014-09-22_10_58_39.jpg


There has also been a very amateurish attempt at fitting an immobiliser, as evidenced by the keyway which is installed (but not wired) in the fusebox cover (which I've now replaced) and the butchering and terrible re-joining of the ignition wires.

https://www.fiatforum.com/gallery/uploads/9429/2014-09-22_10_58_45.jpg

Alloy wheel refurb was poorly done and alloys are kerbed a lot.

2014-09-22_11_00_26.jpg


The entire car is covered in tree-sap and needs a serious detailing.

2014-09-22_10_59_59.jpg


The sideskirt has come away from the body:

2014-09-22_11_00_22.jpg


Does anyone know what this gasket is called? My local Fiat garage only saw an adhesive in their system.

The driver door has some funky damage, which looks consistent with a break-in attempt.

https://www.fiatforum.com/gallery/uploads/9429/2014-09-22_10_59_49.jpg

Remaining work then:
  • ECU reading/fault resetting then indicated issues addressed.
  • Ignition wiring.
  • Secure instruments/investigate reason for loose fixings.
  • Bulkhead partition/sound deadening needs replaced (it can be seen in the battery clamp pics where it has been inexplicably and crudely chopped down).
  • Cosmetic improvements, side skirt securing, detailing.
  • Replace front bumper (and possibly driver's door).
  • VIC procedure booking.


On the plus side, it is at least a genuine Schumacher Edition.

2014-09-22_10_59_02.jpg


I'll try to visit the car this coming weekend to at least read the ECU and replace the parts indicated.
 
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Correct..!!

I read this month of moves to scrap the VIC checks..they have something like a 0.01 success rate..

brought in to stop "ringers" - but stolen vehicles just get exported :(

speak to the DVLA.. could well have been sent out in error.. plenty of that around unfortunately..!!,
Charlie

Just my luck VICs will be scrapped the day after I go through all this hassle. Called the DVLA today, no error :(
 
....some idiot ran seriously heavy wiring straight from the positive of the battery, over the A-pillar, under the door seal to a pull-switch on the column shroud lower, then back out of the cabin to the otterstat on the radiator and to the fan....
There has also been a very amateurish attempt at fitting an immobiliser....
WOT THE FRAGGLE! :eek::eek::eek:
The fan is ECU controlled & the Sei is factory fitted with a (Thatcham cat2) immobiliser - Thank God this car has been rescued from these muppets by someone with a working brain.
BTW: the side skirts are held in place by adhesive. People generally recommend Tigerseal, used it on mine & it works damned well. *A word of warning -don't let any local moggies rub up against the car till the Tigerseal has gone off completely or you might find you have a strange howling noise as you drive along*
 
BTW: the side skirts are held in place by adhesive. People generally recommend Tigerseal, used it on mine & it works damned well. *A word of warning -don't let any local moggies rub up against the car till the Tigerseal has gone off completely or you might find you have a strange howling noise as you drive along*

Best way to remove (or blend) TigerSeal and other PUs while wet is panel wipe. Acetone works as well, but tends to take off the paint.

I'd not advise the use of either on our feline friends.
 
WOT THE FRAGGLE! :eek::eek::eek:
BTW: the side skirts are held in place by adhesive. People generally recommend Tigerseal, used it on mine & it works damned well. *A word of warning -don't let any local moggies rub up against the car till the Tigerseal has gone off completely or you might find you have a strange howling noise as you drive along*

Thanks for the advice - I will check it out. Maybe that's how it got its name in the first place.. just not with regular cats but with BIG cats?

I have regular RTV silicone but I think it's probably too soft to use in this application.
 
Best way to remove (or blend) TigerSeal and other PUs while wet is panel wipe. Acetone works as well, but tends to take off the paint.

I'd not advise the use of either on our feline friends.

Aw, poor kitties - I will be careful. Thanks for the advice on blending the TigerSeal. I'll mask above the join line just in case and also mask the skirt; in the event of overflow, the tape can be peeled off with the excess.
 
Chances are if the skirt had been flapping around for some time it will have deformed slightly -mine had. Use some decent non-stretchy elephant tape to hold it in place whilst the PU adhesive sealant goes off. I just wiped off any excess before it completely cured with some white spirit & a small fluffy kitten.
SORRY -white spirit & a RAG, definitely a rag.
 
Good luck with the project Jamie. I always wanted a yellow schumi.

In case its of any interest I have a full engine and gearbox from a 60k schumi I broke for parts many years ago, you are welcome to it if its of any use. Im in Central Scotland too (y)
 
Good luck with the project Jamie. I always wanted a yellow schumi.

In case its of any interest I have a full engine and gearbox from a 60k schumi I broke for parts many years ago, you are welcome to it if its of any use. Im in Central Scotland too (y)

Hi Donna, I just this moment saw this message, for some reason I wasn't notified of it by email and I have been occupied with work and baby since I last posted, so I haven't been on. It's a real pity too, as I was down visiting the folks for Christmas. :cry:

In any case, thank you for the generous offer - I will most likely be down the road again in a month or so if it still stands!

Regards and all my best for 2015
 
I now have the car in my garage and work has begun in earnest. After getting a new battery (the old unit was dead) and attempting to start the car, the starter cranked really slowly.

I recharged the new battery, stripped and cleaned all live feeds and earths, and finally got the car to start. Unfortunately, it turns out that the alternator is seized since the garage was filled with smoke and the sound of screeching. The drag from the alternator was presumably causing the starter to struggle.

I liberated the alternator today, but in doing so, I noticed that the engine mount was sagging and clearly in poor condition, so off it came. Found some more cowboy work. Some moron has (badly) tack-welded the captive nut, but it parted company during it being tightened and they just left it hanging. Also, the lower front nut was missing entirely.
 

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