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Panda (Classic) My Sisley, Panda 4x4 - division north

Introduction

As mentioned before, I'm starting new thread for my recent purchease.
Bought it from forum user, deposit was place without seeing the car first, went all the way down south with rest of the cash and A-frame in boot.

First summary of the car is ( 1 is very poor, 10 is perfect):

  • Originality - 6,
  • Bodywork - 7,
  • Engine - 6,
  • Gearbox - 5,
  • Interior - 5,
  • Structural rust - 8,
  • Visible rust - 8,
  • Previous owners maintain - 7
Plan for the car is to keep it road worthy and in good mechanical nick, join Panda 4x4 UK club and have some play with other Northern forum members.

As it is now, I'm not willing to make any statement what needs to be done as I had only spend about 2h last week by checking and looking at the car in more details way.

That is my bigger worry for now - bloody milky coolant and a bit of mayo under the oil cap.

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How can I confirm my head gasket theory not having coolant presure test kit???
@CLS - your not the only one - aparently it is bloody hard to buy cheepo 4x4 without blown thru head gasket.

The rest of the engine bay seems to be fine,
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Did somebody in here mentioned a black silicone gunk as a fast repair?
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Interior as you can expect from car been used on a farm
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Not the geniune steering wheel and speedo, which does not make much difference to me at all. Roofrack presence evidence
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I dont want to know how this happened.
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Filler pipe still untouched, what sort of DIY protections do you recon?
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And time for the bad boy
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Is that gap between the propshaft and diff is normall?
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Dear FFCP section members, any comments, suggestions and observation are more than welcome, especcialy regards the 4x4 drive train i.e. leaks etc.
yeah trade card.. best thing i have :LOL:

GL-4 so long as it says that it is ok with yellow metals should be fine.. GL-3 is not made any more. its like DOT 3 brake fluid.. not made any more but DOT 4 is still fine to use.
i dont want to get involved in this oil talk any more... each to there own..
all i know is that i am using ZC90 in Talon.. and the 3rd gear crunch is getting worse.. :/
 
I've been out for shopping in Wilko :slayer:

spendings - £9.00 for 1 gallon of 20W/50, then I went to BOYES they do stock 1 gallon bottle of Comma 20W/50 for £13.99, last visit was at local "old school" motor factor shop for diff oil, asked them for a quote on front shock 4x4 and the block said " wait a minute we got some old stock down the stairs, i'll go and check - i was feeling like i've won the lottery - but it was not my lucky day - bugger.

Did anybody uprade inner driveshaft/gearbox rubber boots from the old type ( with bushes) to new design with bearings? I should have somewhere fabricated piece of pipe when i was changing the bearings on the Formula '91, is it harder to fit?

Just changed my policy on the sisley service - do what is really needed and get it on the road, do the rest after.
 
On the inner drive shaft boot question-

I think the shafts are different with the earlier version not having the inner bearing mounting shoulder. If you had the later shafts and boots it looks straight forward. Or perhaps machine a bush to slide onto the early shaft..

Good luck.
 
Could somebody add a photo showing how the flexi linkage connects to heater matrix hot/cold valve? Does the fixing point slides on the valve lever or is it fixed? Thanks
 
Could somebody add a photo showing how the flexi linkage connects to heater matrix hot/cold valve? Does the fixing point slides on the valve lever or is it fixed? Thanks


Depends on your valve my old one was fixed but the new one slides up and down the arm. If your valve arm has a long slot then it slides hope this helps.
 
Yes, i've got long slot along the arm but no slider/roller to attached the linkage. I'm sure i can come up with alternative solution but would be helpfull to know how it looks.
 
Where the cable goes through the pinch connector, I used a slightly longer one. So it's loose on the arm but long enough to go pass it in to the groove of the valve. As the cable is moved the valve groove controls the movement of the cable connector along the slot in the arm.

Hope this helps its a bit hard to explain.
 
Hope this helps its a bit hard to explain.

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That's how it looks, bare flexi rod, loose black sleve, valve arm with slot.

In all that mice **** i've managed to find small black plastic piece which is the clamp for the black sleve. Not sure how to connect the flexi rod to valve arm/ free play within the slot.
 
I'm not sure if this will help you. Iv not got round to taking picture of my valve, but this is the sort of thing I made.

The red plastic represents the valve arm.

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The screw head runs up and down the groove in the valve.
 
So, finaly I can upload pic again.
Went same route as indicated by Rustypanda and my new hot/cold flexi rod stop looks like that


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What sort of valve lever movements are correct? I'm having approx. 80-85 degrees from max hot to max cold. Will do real time test but engine isn't complete right now.
 
As you all might seen I've won the "Job lot of Sisley odds and sods"
Three big boxes came in today, had a bit of fun unpacking them. One box was sterring rack (one of three differnt type available from ebay seller), I went for this one as it had attached lower sterring colum with it - on my sisley current one some free play was detected - 7to 10 degrees when turning the wheel. Aparently this one with the rack is far much much better plus the stering rack itself is exact same TRW part number does match.

Two other boxes were full of parts as shown on pics at the ebay listing, so i've got what I was after:
- radio pod,
- battery rubber tray,
- speedo cable firewall rubber boot,
- jack strap,
- exhaust rubber hangers.

plus more - 2 full front wiper motor assy (old type) with unworn spline and main shaft, brake servo with fluid reservoir + vacum pipe, ignition coil, gear knob (old type) with plastic legend insert, rear wiper motor, spare wheel 4x4 nut/holder, bonnet release lever-cable-lock, battery clamp, 4x4 selector flor lever, low dip resistor, radioator/collant 4x4 hose, door sill carper trim, head lamp screen wash bottel with pump, side air vents drain hoses, 3 brake calipers ( matching par + one odd), clutch cable, some wires and plugs, speedo pod plus some odds and sods

Sure it was worth the price,

 
Lots of times i've read here about worn front wiper spline, shaft and how hard it's to fix it (i.e. by driling and tapping the shaft) not mentioning buying brand new wiper assembly or even good second hand one.

On the Sisley the wiper arm sat firmly on the spline, but the shalf was making abnornal movements from right to left, some week ago i've decided to investigate that.

As i don't want to re-invent the wheel the question is - does any body alse been that far?

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By using battry terminals/ wipers puller I've manage to get the spline of the shaft.
The shaft itself was slightly worn but the surrounding plasting channel was much worse. I had some 0.6mm thick ss sheet, so i've cut small strip of it, formed "O" shape and stuck it inside the plastic channel + some grease, pressed the spline back on the shaff and that's it. no more abnormal spline movements only rotation inline with the channel.
If someones spline is badly worn it must be possible to fabricate a new alloy bush to replicate the original spline, every machine shop should be able to do that, just have the OD a bit bigger and job sorted.

Or remove the shaft completely and weld in/replace it with more modern one with the nut holding the wiper arm ( cinq, siei, punto)
 
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yeah ive been that far lmao. i changed my push on fit for a bolt on fit. i used a bolt and made a shim for it out of an old bit of tin can.. i did improve this though and changed it to a stainless steel bolt.
if you have it that far to bits, it should be easy to do. all you need to find is a long enough shoulder on a bolt to go all the way through the spline hole thingy. then find a narrow nut that you can tighten up to the shoulder stick a cinquecento drivers side wiper arm on (perfect length) and then clamp it down with another bolt.

sounds hard but it works real good.

sadly i dont have any pictures of it.. but may have a video.. let me have a look...

here you go..


i did refine that idea by using a slightly wider stainless steel bolt and some thin nylon shims to stop any side to side play
 
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