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Panda (Classic) Black Panda Wanda 1000CL Formula 91

Introduction

Hi All,

After over 2 year on this forum I've finally decided to set members motors thread for my Panda as I'm currently doing some body works.
Some of them may have some benefits to other forum users, and it will be a bit easier for me to ask an advice.

As some of you know as seen my Panda personally it is not bad example, but as most of them she is not perfect.

On the last MOT test this June I've been told by the tester that there is small rust hole at the inner sill/ floor recognized as an advisory.
So, lets have a closer look....


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At that time I was aware of small (20mm) outer sill bottom edge flange missing, but I was wrong as that was not the only one rust point.
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Thats how it looked like, the hole was enlarge by only using my fingers - yellow marking is still visible. After having a play with screwdriver and angle grinder - situation seams to be under control.

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No, it's not.
As you can see there is a right mess under the jacking point, and the far end of jacking point itself is badly corroded same as the cross membrane.

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And the jacking point
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The following plan for is :
- cut the and of the membrane, to gain clear access to the floor and inner sill,
- repair floor and inner sill section under the membrane,
- weld in the rest of the floor and inner sill cut out,
- fabricate cross membrane section and weld it back in to original position,
- repair jacking point using 3mm thick steel,
- spot weld jacking point back to ori position,
- prepare surrounding area for stone chip paint, closed profile conservation, etc...

Now I'm after some 1.5mm steel sheet for the membrane rebuild, and 1-1.2mm for floor/sill.


Any suggestions, tips&trics are welcome.
You are a star.
Coincidently in 15min I'll set off down the south to Winchester with visit to Hemp police workshop. Unfortunately company car does not have a tow bar.
 
That sounds a tad more exciting than my lot...

The plan is to get to layby at jn 30 ahead of you and wait at 1st exit off M1 r/bout - lay it out under my Panda and give you quick run down (if needed)
You might consider a rear no plate - even if it's only an illegal Towsure type with stick on letters rather than the equally illegal bit of cardboard - it'll look better and less conspicuous at night maybe..?
 
Got PM - did you get my text..?
Come left off MI JN30 - there's dual carriageway with laybys either side.
Look for white panda Lucy... says 'LUCY' in big letters on side - no it doesn't - only joking... :D
Let me know when you're A) setting off, and B) when you're around 20 mins away - M18? at A1 maybe? I'll break off work and wait at said layby. If one side happens to be full I'll wait on t'other side - then you'll be straight off back on M1.
You'll be attaching in dark so a headtorch or something would be good as would something to scraum on the floor on maybe..?
Only other thing I could think of would be some spare bulbs maybe? I've never had to change a bulb on tow board and it's not had much use but...

er, hang on... just re-read your post - 12 pin????

check this - 1st diagram is 12N - (7 pins) You most likely have both 12N and 12S fitted..? Though there is the later 13 pin - but then you'd only have the one socket..?
 
Is there any ID label on the frame saying what is the weight of it? i'm trying to work out what will have to be dismantled and carried in the towing vehicle to meet the 750kg max for unbraked trailer. If i'm not wrong stock Panda 4x4 (empty) is rated at 790kg, so battery, front + rear seats, spare wheel will go to my estate.

On the driving licence legal aspect i've found " If you passed your driving test after 1 January 1997 and have an ordinary category B (car) licence, you can:

  • tow a trailer over 750kg MAM as long as it is no more than the unladen weight of the towing vehicle (with a combined weight of up to 3,500kg in total)"
 
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All sorted now, so back to the subject.

Had some play with cardboad and tin scissors
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As I do not have proper metal sheet folding device - 15 min later I had one made



Not perfect but it is doing the job for up to 6 inch long edge and rough 1.5-2 mm radius.

That's how it looks, for now i'm just focusing on the sill and floor, the crossmember will wait


The only one part of the outer sill which was rotten - funny fealing that this bit will cause far much problems this evening when I'll be trying to butt-weld it back on.




If any of you guys with far much bigger welding experience can advice what gap in between the patch and the sill I should go for? The patches are 1.0mm thick, sill approx. 1.2mm but less in some places. I would go for 0.5mm gap and Clarke 151E set to 1 MAX, 5.6 wire speed, argon mix 15.%

I don't want to burn MORE holes!!! must do the lager tin welding course by Dragonman.
 
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Somebody where ( Homward?) was after Formula '91 decal measurements.
Below (link) is simple drawing in 1:1 scale lay down on A4.
This is passanger side, right edge was lined up with side of the rear lamp lens, top edge lined up with panel horizontal fold line. If .pdf or .psp required for futrher editing pm me.
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full size link
https://www.fiatforum.com/gallery/data/500/medium/form3.jpg
 
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Some very neat looking repair pieces there(y) As for butt welding, you really want as little gap as possible, the metal should idealy be touching, although I know how tricky it is to get it fitting that well.

Make sure it is all as clean as possible and there is not any thin slightly corroded metal where you are welding as that will just get blown away as soon as you touch it! Have a practice on some scrap steel first to make sure you have the correct settings and are getting good penetration, also dont go mad with the grinder afterwards as you can easily thin the metal if you are not careful.
 
I need some advice guys,
How hard and what tool are needed to dropp the oe panda bullbar off? Where actually it is bolted to? Is it doable withot distorting wheel alingment if radius rod bracket has to be undo?
 
Hi guys,


Jacob arrived and hitched it all up and texted me when he got back safe and sound. He did a good job of making sure everything was safe before he set off although it was a marathon trip.


Great 'A' frame btw although the bolts snapped removing the bull bar.


@ Jacob, I hope you enjoy the 4x4 and I am sure you will make it a superb example...
 
When Jacob arrived I was rigging it up on Ruth (4x4 - not Sisley) and we took it round the block, just to get the feel of it. Hell, of course... I never thought of the bull bar... the chain on one side was snug up against the underbody guard, but I knew it would fit as I brought mine back with the same setup.
Glad to hear he made it back home without incident (y)
 
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