Panda (Classic) Snatch Panda

andyholli · May 20, 2015

Mounted the ECU today.

An earlier post suggests removing the headlamp wash/ballast tank to make space, but the loom allows it to be located behind and above the strut tower. - I've got the later expansion tank integrated in the radiator set up so there's a space where the original tank was. Using the original Punto bracket helped to make locating it securely quite easy.
Also got the tyres mounted.

That's the good news but the Punto downpipe's flexi fouls the gear linkeage rods so that's going to need modifying somehow..

panda1408 · May 20, 2015

Where's the coolant header tank?

andyholli · May 20, 2015

panda1408 said:
Where's the coolant header tank?

-You're right, I was editing the post when you posted.:bang:

panda1408 · May 20, 2015

Ahh, I see, did wonder if that was case

Never really worked out why 4x4s got a separate header tank and 2WDs got it integrated into the radiator. Any ideas anyone?

andyholli · May 20, 2015

Good question - I assumed they weren't concurrently produced and that the integrated version was just a later simplification.

Maybe my flippant suggestion is not so hard to believe.. - I doubt it was that thoroughly developed though.

Any thoughts?

kolza · May 20, 2015

andyholli said:
Any thoughts?

Higher capacity of reservoir tank will let you go further with failed head gasket?

andyholli · May 20, 2015

kolza said:
Higher capacity of reservoir tank will let you go further with failed head gasket?

Genius!:slayer:

Dragon Man · May 20, 2015

if you cut all the tape from off the loom you will find that it would become long enough to hide the ECU behind the battery

that is where Fallouts ecu is.

while you are at it you can remove the unused wires that will be in the loom..
theres quite a few wires in the loom that you wont need to use as you can use the original cars loom. (temp gauge, oil light, starter solenoid wire, alternator "battery light" wire)

andyholli · May 23, 2015

May be easier to see from here -

And on the left, propshaft rebuilt and installed, after a bit of a fight. - AndyPanda4x4 suggested around 30 minutes to strip it down. The Yorkshire/Lancashire difference here is about 5 hours!
That thing fought me every step of the way and I ended up 'welding' the cast uj yolk to heat it up enough for the lump hammer to free it from the splines. Both CV joints were gritty with missing boots but they came apart completely and easily to allow proper cleaning, which was nice.
So a whole day lost to a prop shaft. Is it just me or is the Italy ferry starting to loom over the horizon a bit?... Andy, Jacob..?

But. To earn a "1st International Meeting" sticker, surely worth it.

Dragon Man · May 24, 2015

hmm yes.. does the flange actually hit the gearshifter rod?

it does look pretty damn close. how does the original centre section mate up to it?

could you get away with cutting the 3 bolt flange off and just using the original 4x4 flange?

hmm then i guess you have the issue with the pipe not being wide enough.

other than routing the exhaust making your own mounting points as you go along.. i cant really see any other way of doing it.

do you have a full complete exhaust or just the downpipe?

andyholli · May 24, 2015

An exhausting day (sorry) but enjoyable, - welding nice thick pipes, flanges and mounts into position. As John suggested, it was 'fabricate your way towards the rear', which I didn't find easy to get the bits; aligned, strong, symmetrically supportive, neat... etc (In fact I didn't manage any of this, but it was fun anyway.)

I didn't even make it to the rear, but gave up near a rear wheel.

Dragon Man · May 25, 2015

hey it looks good! that is what Fallout is going to have..... one day.
i need to find a place that will sell me cheap flexible stainless 2 inch wide ducting...

oh and that sticker.. awesome.. just awesome.

i will hide my 600watt (1.2kw SSB) signal amp when you next come around.

Bartpanda · May 25, 2015

andyholli, do you have some pictures of the exhaust from under the car? It could be inspiring

JamieK · May 25, 2015

And a video of it running? I bet it sounds nice with that short exhaust on it and only 1? Silencer :slayer:

andyholli · May 25, 2015

Bartpanda said:
andyholli, do you have some pictures of the exhaust from under the car? It could be inspiring

Not easy to photograph but you can see all I've done is weld my way out of tricky problems. We will see how long it all lasts...

https://www.fiatforum.com/photo_pop...prod=photopost&ins=link_med_2_gallery&alb=all#

andyholli · May 29, 2015

It lives!

..Sort of. Wiring mystery solved (see "how to fit a 16v thread") but as I haven't replaced the filler tube yet I can't put fuel in the tank for a proper test. Couldn't resist squirting some brake cleaner down the inlet just to check it ran, and away it went first crank, almost.

Also fitted dragonman's wiper conversion - thanks John, and in the absence of a Cinq arm found that a driver's side MX5 one works okay too.

Plenty still to do before departure, but good progress today.

onemanmade · May 29, 2015

andyholli said:
It lives!

..Sort of. Wiring mystery solved (see "how to fit a 16v thread") but as I haven't replaced the filler tube yet I can't put fuel in the tank for a proper test. Couldn't resist squirting some brake cleaner down the inlet just to check it ran, and away it went first crank, almost.

Also fitted dragonman's wiper conversion - thanks John, and in the absence of a Cinq arm found that a driver's side MX5 one works okay too.

Plenty still to do before departure, but good progress today.

The wiper conversion is brilliant! I have it on both of mine

andyholli · Jun 3, 2015

JamieK said:
And a video of it running? I bet it sounds nice with that short exhaust on it and only 1? Silencer :slayer:

Microphone on phone struggling with the db level from the exhaust. But at least it does run.

Unfortunately it doesn't stop. Key off, out, in pocket, still runs. Hmmm from not starting to not stopping. I'm not great at this electricity down wires thing.

Dragon Man · Jun 4, 2015

you did wire the orange wire to an ignition live... right? like the old coil live.. or the white wire that went to the carburettor..

i cant see any other way you have done that???

do you get your fuel pump prime when you connect the battery? or only when you turn the key to ignition?

this is from Fallouts thread (yes i know its a 8v engine but the looms i think are the same!)

a big thick RED wire, is a constant live from the battery.
ORANGE wire, its an ignition live.
BROWN with WHITE stripe is the fuel pump
BLUE wire, it is for the REV counter
LIGHT GREY with GREEN stripe goes to the CODE box (ECU pin 7)(wire colours match on ECU and CODE box connector!)
BLUE with GREEN stripe goes to the injector/engine management light (ECU pin 6)
LIGHT GREY with YELLOW stripe goes to the oil light
LIGHT GREY with BLACK stripe goes to the battery/Alternator light
LIGHT GREY only wire goes to the temperature gauge

us panda guys dont need the last 3 wires..

andyholli · Jun 4, 2015

Solved - thanks again to panda-sport for further supportive advice. - I'll post the fix in the other thread in case someone else attempts this with a 4x4 in future.

So it starts, runs and stops. Just need to fix the coolant leak then install the interior and test!
Ages to go before departure...

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