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IMG_01991.jpg

Panda (Classic) Project Fallout

Overview Gallery Discussion

Introduction

let me introduce to you, the free panda 4x4 which was first spotted >>Here<<.
First off however, here is the plan:

i will (some how) make the panda look "Post Apocalyptic" yet keep it in a road legal state (so no spikes, sharp rusty edges sadly). We have all seen mad max right? all wanted to replicate a mad max style car?
well let me be the first to attempt this with a fiat panda 4x4.

if anyone here has seen the TV program "Defiance", you surely have seen the epic Doge Charger that looks post apocalyptic. i will be trying to aim for the same theme. with such things as an external roll cadge, external metal mesh / grills covering the windows, custom bull bar, reinforced rear bumper made from tubular metal, custom twin output exhaust, and many many more.

this project is going to be undertaken as cheaply as possible (excluding parts necessary for a safe road going vehicle). reusing as many things as i can find (in scrap yards, freebees), true to a real post apocalyptic constructed vehicle. i will also be taking the "rough is best look" (please note, i say Rough not Rat!) the panda its self of course will undergo all the rust prevention Talon went under when i got him.

anyway, i will leave you a few seconds to build up a mental picture of how a panda 4x4 could look in a post apocalyptic landscape while browsing some of these Pictures.......



ok.. that should do.

First off. i need to get the panda all well and good.
a few things are broken... the exhaust, the front suspension on the passenger side, both rear dampeners are rusted out, the doors are shot but i will try to fix them, the gear stick is really loose and all the roller bearings have dropped out, the wiring is a mess (mice attack!), there are no brakes.. and i mean no brakes, and lets not forget the underside rust.

so today i started by stripping out everything inside the car to get a good look at the floor pan and clean it all out (Dragon Man style!) i found the usual rust: the boot floor is a mess, but easy fixable, a seam has gone just behind the drivers seat anything forward of that seems to be OK, and the back of the sills are just gone so i will need to rebuild that.

the engine runs.. the vac advance line has split so its a bit rough on tickover but it seems good. the fuel tank seems good.. all the 4x4 stuff seems good.

i have go a few pictures took free by a professional photographer! (or should i say someone with an epic camera :p)

Here are a few picture, but please check out >This Album<















like i say, check out the photo album.


i will be keeping >Online video logs< of this, so keep a look out on Youtube too.
here are some videos, both are long but the second one is longer!

Project Fallout a panda 4x4 turned post apocalyiptic - YouTube

Project Fallout Panda 4x4 What to do Post Apocaliptic looking Panda! - YouTube


keep watching guys.. the jet wash will be coming out later today!



Edit:

This is how it looks now: :eek::eek::eek: :slayer::slayer::slayer:



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Reactions: VmanC, AndyPanda4x4 and MultiRacer
Click to expand...
Dragon Man said:
so as most of us know, i have been away for 2 weeks. not from the forum, but from the project.

but i am back now. hence all of the following pictures.

when i got back i managed to get fallout turned around so i could work on the passenger side.

i started from back to front.

so this is how it goes..

i have just got to ask myself,
Who the hell designed this:mad::mad:... and how the hell did they even get it to bolt up tight??!!:confused::confused:

Click to expand...

Glad i'm not the only one! I put all these sort of design features down to the work experience boy who must have been in that day.

I was lucky and an open ended spanner was able free them on my daily, but resorted to an angle grinder on the spares car. Make sure you put a stack of washers in their on reassembly, that should let you get a socket on without fouling with the weld.
 
ive been doing yet more work...

mostly cleaning, filing, chipping and wire brushing.. then painting.

the CV joint was really badly pitted inside where the ball bearings slide around. so i replaced it with one from off bex (its in really good condition, no pitting and no ware!)

even the track rod end ball joint was shot! thankfully i had a new replacement one.

heres some pictures.. i know how you like those.

these springs from off the calliper.. they are stainless steel but get crusted with brake dust and other stuff. soon come up nice and clean with a wire brush:



heres a picture of the strut top.. a bit peely but not bad. i will underseal under here when i have completed the welding.


front seams need welding.. also looks like its had a bit of a low down knock at some point in time.. its bent the skins but nothing else thankfully. will hammer back into shape.


spot what's missing haha (yes i know.. everything!)




now its time for the painted stuff



yes that is me on the bike in the picture, in front of our house.. spot the difference between then and now with the picture in my sig...






drive axle has also been painted but i forgot to take a picture of that...

hope you all like so far!
 
You and this crazy colours John :D I preffer shades of gray and black when restoring parts, but the point is to give good antirust protection, and some aesthetic touch right? the colours are personal prefference. Nice progress with the "Wasteland Rover" mate(y)
 
ok, here is another load of pictures to have a gander through.

so here is the make shift engine hoist, made out of one of those garden swinging chairs. best use ever for one..



engine out!


its a bit mucky in there :/



Jetwash time!



here is the 1.2 ready to go in...




i notice that the timing belt is lovely on it..


lets get a comparison of that...




other than the belt.. the oil looks fresh.. the clutch looks brand new, the oil filter looks good..
i dont have any history with the engine sadly but in terms of how things look, i'd say that new things were done to this engine rather recently. i have no idea what the story is with the cam belt though.. even the water pump looks rather new.

i just need to get it up and into the engine bay. wish i had some help :/
 
Last edited:
bit of an update, the rear drum brake has been rebuilt. i just have to do all the brake pipe lines on the rear axle.

need some (stainless) split pins for the hand brake cable. that needs adjusting so i can get the cable on.

i still have not done any welding on the pass side yet. i really need to get some done.. i may attack the rear seam first.. get that out of the way.

sady i am at the stage where i am out of cash.. so i am selling some of bex's panels. the tail gate and the bonnet if anybody is interested. they are listed in the classified section though i have no idea how much they are worth. i stuck them up for £50 each.. but its really a "pay what you think they are worth" kinda thing.

not sure if i have anything else i can sell to fund this.

if anyone needs something please do get in contact with me.. as i need the cash.
 
ok, so i found out why the timing belt was so gnarled.

spot whats wrong...


didnt see it? look at the cam shaft pulley, and water pump pulley. the teeth are different!






thankfully i had a spare brand new water pump.

lets have a look at that water jacket...



that looks nice and clean in there!!


no gasket? i make my own...


now we have matching pulleys!



all that with that belt and the water pump that had a January 2010 date stamp.. been running around for 4 years on that timing belt and never lost its timing. that is impressive!

future reference..
fiat punto 75 1.2L 8v timing belt is 108 teeth by 15mm (108x15)
 
Last edited:
quite annoyed today. my welder is just eating through gas bottles. i have used up 4 in a day and have no idea why.
i have replaced the regulator that sits on top of the bottle and had the whole thing to bits to see if i could figure it out.

i have the gas set to about 4-5 (out of 6) and i get a nice steady shush of gas come through the nozzle when i squeeze the trigger. theres no leaks when the unit is off. the valves on the bottles are not passing, nor is the valve on the welders gun.
im going to be on the phone to machine mart tomorrow and asking if they have had a bad batch of gas bottles in.

i am using the co2/argon mix (110L capacity) bottles. at about £20 a bottle you can say that i am quite p!$$ed about it.

i have started welding the rear seam from the outside.. working from the back, forwards i have only just made it to the seat belt mount on one bottle of gas.. its a poor show. normally one bottle will last me welding at least half one side of the car maybe more.

new timing belt came today for the replacement engine. guess ill be fitting that now :/

if i had pulleys i would swing it in the engine bay and bolt it all up.
 
Impressive indeed , that this engine worked so long with that 23 teeth pump from 16v and late 8v engines instead of the 20 teeth correct one..... "fires" are indestructible :slayer:
 
Tell machine mart to GFTS!

Buy this and get it filled for £60
Like to see you try to empty a 10litre bottle . .
That's 10litres not ml mind,
Like a big bucket of water :D
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281419210505
 
Last edited:
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Dragon Man said:
i want a red CO2 fire extinguisher. i can get that filled for £15.. and that is 6kg worth.
Click to expand...


Could you not just get that bottle filled?
It would be about 12kg?
So £30?
Plus no take off point for fire extinguisher, you'd have to get Alex to pull the trigger each time :D
 
Try somewhere that does the rent free gas bottles, there seem to be plenty of people doing them now, Hobby Weld is one of the more well know ones. One off desposit of about £60 and then a refill is about £30. Much better than the disposable bottles. Thats Argon Mix aswell which gives better welds than CO2.
 
well timing belt has been fit. i have also painted the engine block black. and some of the sump.. ill paint the rest when it is in the car.

core plugs all look good. one of them was starting to rust, a bit of paint should stop that in its tracks.

yes i think this engine will be fine once i have dealt with the immobiliser. however i am going to do that :/
 
Dragon Man said:
yes i think this engine will be fine once i have dealt with the immobiliser. however i am going to do that :/
Click to expand...
Carb(y) Like to see the stupid box of electronics stop that:p You could leave it in there as a spectator just to show it how you can run an engine perfectly well without it interfering!
Stupid things.
 
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