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Seicento Monster Cento/ECU Master Thread

Introduction

Well starting this is well overdue although technically it's still just a car and a big pile of bits at the moment. It will come together quickly though as I have access to a commercial garage in the evenings and on weekends which belongs to a good friend. I'm lucky enough to have another good friend who is a self employed coded welder/fabricator and yet another good friend who owns a powder coating business. Myself, I do electronics so pretty much everything is covered. :D

I'm not going to go into minor details as most of it has been discussed before (especially the engine which was purchased from Gazzaman). However I will answer any questions and will go into detail with the DET 3 setup and installation as there are no UK guides I'm aware of for this.

So the car:

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A 2000 SPI Seicento Abarth (probably manufactured late 1999) which replaces the silver Cinq (SPI Turbocharged) I have recently sold for restoration. The silver chap needed some TLC due to a bad repair from a rear collision before I purchased him. Someone made me an offer I couldn't refuse so I sold him on with the standard engine and pinched Mrs. Honeymonsters Sei after buying her a newer yellow ragtop replacement which I got a good deal on but wasn't really suitable for my project.

The planned spec is as follows, only thing I'm missing is the TB. Now Sorted (thanks Blu!)


Specification
1.2 Punto 75 Engine
Fully balanced rebuilt bottom end and crank
Ported Punto 75 MPI head with 3 angle cut valves
866 Cam with Piper vernier adjustable pulley
16v pistons/rods with skimmed block/head to adjust for suitable turbo compression
Port matched HT coated Punto 75 inlet manifold with rebuilt and tested Larger MGF VVT Injectors
Strongflex Polyurethane engine mounts
HKS mushroom filter
ECU Master ECU using fuel implant technology running MPI and solenoid boost control
Brand new GT17 Turbo with Forge racing billet actuator
Custom tigg welded GT17 exhaust manifold with high temperature coating
Forge racing billet Dump valve
Upgraded Fuel pump
Adjustable Boost referencing fuel pressure regulator
Lightened 1.2 flywheel with C&G clutch
Custom exhaust/downpipe with Magnex stainless steel silencer
Renault 5 Turbo polished and uprated Intercooler with Samco pipes and stainless bends
9 row oil cooler with Stainless braided lines
Kinugawa Stainless braided turbo water and oil feeds
Modified brand new sump tig welded for oil return and breather
Aluminum oil catch can with baffle and breather filter
Lower temperature 85c thermostat
New pumps, belts, tensioners
New leads and custom injector loom
All new seals rings and bearings
Aluminum radiator
Sparco strutbrace
Quaiffe ATB differential with new drive shafts and cv joints
Uno turbo or Punto GT Calipers (have both) with vented/grooved discs and pads
-40mm springs and upgraded shocks
Hel Braided brake lines
Monroe adjustable camber bolts (Corrected thanks Brooky :)
New tie rods and track rod ends
All suspension components including rear beam, arms etc. and front hubs, arms etc. removed and powder coated black.
Momo steering wheel, pedals and gear knob
Soundsream old skool reference series amplifier
Soundstream high end 6.5" component speakers
Image dynamics IDQ10 sub hidden in the spare wheel well.
Orion Ultra rare old school digital parametric equaliser
Audio control ESP2 spatial restoration unit
Alpine F1 Head Unit

I will just post some pictures of the bits for now and then intermittently as I fit them.

I do however need to keep this car mobile to park it back in my workshop so it will be done in big chunks.

Cheers
Well here is my preliminary wiring diagram based on the Sei manual and the ECU master documentation for FIT.

wiring loom Monster Cento.jpg

Not sure why the don't use the 5v supply from No. 12 as a refference for the map, but if it aint broke don't fix it I guess. There are clearly several ways of doing this. I could do away with IAT and use it for another function for example, however I'm fairly pleased with it how it is. I will probably use No.2 for a 2 stage switch as I'd like a "fast" and "faster" switch on the dash. :D

I'm sure I can get a fairly decent tune without the need of NB or WB interfearing and "cough cough" we don't have an MOT :D.

These are the two diagrams I used as a base:

Det 3 manual.jpg

2.Engine.jpg
 
The front end will start mid day tomorrow and be finished Sunday morning.
And then guess what happens after that... :D
As for the diagram I've added a few notes to make it clearer, but other than that can't fault it. Calibrating the sensors will be fun but once I've done it, no one else will probably ever need to. ;)

wiring loom Monster Cento.jpg
 
The front end will start mid day tomorrow and be finished Sunday morning.
And then guess what happens after that... :D
As for the diagram I've added a few notes to make it clearer, but other than that can't fault it. Calibrating the sensors will be fun but once I've done it, no one else will probably ever need to. ;)

View attachment 103205

Just a quick question, see things like injector and TDC sensor, they still all get plugged to the original ECU right ? So do you just splice into the wires?

Thanks
Ming
 
Everything apart from the TDC Sensor wires (you're intercepting these).

One wire from the TDC sensor goes to ground and the other goes to the DET3.

Then the 2 wires from the DET3 go into the original ECU TDC sensor conections as numbered on the diagram.

Everything else just piggy backs on to the existing cabling.

The original injector cable has a resistor put across the output so it thinks the injector is still there.

And for a turbo conversion a Zener diode needs to be added to the MAP as a FCD.

FIT Instruction manual is very clear on this and good bedtime reading. ;)

I will take pictures and list colours when I install the ECU, can't see it taking more than a few hours. :D

Setting up however will take just a bit less time than a SA as the only advantage as the timing base is already there for you.
 
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Very nice and useful diagrams :) I maybe going for a stand alone ECU for my next attempt not sure which to go for though atm...just depends on the simplicity of the wiring haha...im liking the thought of a P75 inlet manifold I maybe going down that route also and fabricating an adaptor plate to hold a cable throttle im not liking this restrictive plastic manifold :( haha

EDIT: with with det3 can you use any injectors you wish for example you won't have to use extra injectors like MF2?? You just use one set of injectors and map the ecu to give correct fueling??
 
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EDIT: with with det3 can you use any injectors you wish for example you won't have to use extra injectors like MF2?? You just use one set of injectors and map the ecu to give correct fueling??

Yes Brin, the manual is here:

http://www.ecumaster.com/download/DET3/Digital ECU Tuner III - FIT Manual English.pdf

The unit has 2 sets of fimware one has stand alone fueling, the other runs like most Japanese piggy backs and works by modifying existing signals so you can run bigger injectors etc. I will be using the Stand alone fueling option (FIT) and have to be honest am not keen on the other method which the manual for is here:

http://www.ecumaster.com/download/DET3/Digital ECU Tuner III - Manual English.pdf

Still Brin since you will need to have yours set up on a rolling road you might be better off discussing with your tuner what brands of ECU they are prepared to map for you. I doubt all will be willing to setup something they are not familiar with.
 
Small update.​

New wishbones, powder coated hubs, wheel bearings, front lines, rod ends, top mounts etc. fitted.​

Sorry for rubbish pics only had my by then oil covered phone with me LOL.​

Anyway front right hand brake disc was binding against the caliper carrier. :mad: Nearly ended up having to ride the little pedal bike home in the corner of the picture as it was making a dreadful noise. :ROFLMAO:

Turns out one of the carrier tabs on the powder coated hub must be bent. I've had to shim it out so I can use it and will get the hub I took off powder coated which is no big deal as I 'll have to take most of it apart again to fit the GT calipers, vented/grooved discs and new shocks. Did have me scratching my head for the best part of an hour though. Thought it might be caused by thick coating at first, however thicker coating would have helped not made it worse so it's definetely being caused by a bent carrier mounting tab.​

FItted the Magnex back section too, forgoten how hoooooj it was. LOL
Still it's not noisy and it won't rust.​

So much more to do...​
 

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hope the engine gets put to use it has never been fiited in a car since i built it it lived its life on the engine stand in my shed lol

subscribed to this should be a best when done :)

Indeed some of the bits you had fitted new had seized up due to lack of use. It seemed odd changing cam belts, water pump and tensioners on an engine that hadn't even run.

Don't worry though Gaz it will be put to good use real soon. :D
 
Some new shiny things arrived today:

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Very large difference between the price in their ebay shop:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160632283937?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

And on their website:

http://www.lkperformance.co.uk/brak...scs-drilled-grooved-front/344710?carId=149888

:confused::confused:

Anyway I obviously got them from the ebay shop and they only charged me £5 postage which is a miracle for Jersey.

I now have a set of Uno turbo brakes and Grooved/Vented/Drilled discs spare but due to their rarity I'm going to hang on to them for a bit incase I go back to 13" rims.

My header tank cap blew off yesterday as well, rather annoying but it was a really hot day. The car wasn't over heating and I only changed the cap a few weeks ago, although it was a Firstline cap and these seem a bit soft. I think the threads are fooked on the tank as the caps just dont seem to sit right, I've ordered a new tank and cap from Eurocare for a permenant solution. I was convinced the head gasket was gone on this motor as it has a lumpy tick over, is a bit down on power and uses a cup of water a week. However we did a sniff yesterday to see if that was why the cap popped off and it passed with flying colours. :confused:

It seems like Blu isn't the only one with a mysterious water leak however since the motor will be coming out in a few weeks I'm not going to put anytime into resolving these issues. If the engine dies tomorrow I really couldn't care less as long as it gets me home. I just hope it's not the damn heater matrix.

I put a big jubilee clip around the tank cap and just lightly nipped it, problem solved for now. :D
 
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Well mate, you are not the only ones with mysterious water leaks. I have one too. For two years :eek: It makes about a medium cup of water disappear every 3-4 months or so. I even know where the leak is (occasionally I see the drips under the car in the morning), just that I can't be bothered to fix it as it requires lots of "access work" in my case (n)
 
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