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Seicento Chalky, 1.4 16v ITB Seicento.

Introduction

I don't know if you guys remember but back in january I was starting a project that involved me swapping the piston rods from 8v ones to the 16v ones, fitting a 1.4 8v grande inlet manifold, and a spicy CB cam :D.

Well that got thrown out, and I promised you I would still do a project.

I Delivered:

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The donor engine was removed from a 2003 fiat stilo 1.2 16v with only 28k on the clock.

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I got the engine home, stripped it down and painted it pretty much straight away (getting quite high in the garage during the winter :D).

Re-assembled with pistons soaking on oil for the next several months.

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The next thing that was on the "to-do" list was chassis tweeks and upgrades.

So off came all the brake lines (They were definately on their way out, so it should be on everyones checklist. Please I do advise this), radius arms, rear beam, petrol tank, handbrake cable, wishbones, front uprights, front calipers. I took everything off so that it was just a shell with windows, steering wheel and seats.

Brakelines were all replaced with 3/16 cooper nickel and shiny stainless fittings, finished off with some nice goodridge braided lines.

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Rear beam was tidied up, painted and refitted for the new lines to be correctly routed.

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Whilst I was doing the brake lines the radius arms were also being tidied up and painted, along with anti roll bar, uprights, and my front upper strut brace.

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Then came a nice delivery of my marea rear calipers to go with my PGT front, they got stripped down and wirebrushed right back to the shiny stuff :D. (see the before and after)

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Then got a lick of paint again.

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A little while went by then a nice postman came again with my fresh polski produce

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A few days later another box came from good ole gazzella.

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Then my mount plates arrived from Signwerx so I finally got arond to refitting all my back end.

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Trial fitted my wheel with the 10mm spacers from the front, Discovred that i'm in need of 15mm at the back due to rubbing on the radius arm :bang:.

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And same day I got bored and re-fitted the front too. All finished off by my custom Gaz coilovers on the front, and custom Gaz dampers on the rear (Need a coil chopping out on the rear mind just so the car is nice and level).

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The bushes were noticeably stiffer even off the floor, no give or flex in the material at all. I theory with some decent tyres this car should stick to the floor nicely (y).

nother payday was coming up so the head got some attention in the form of a dremel, dividers were thinnned down, ridges ground out, drill marks were ground out and smoothed, and to finish off. Hand sanded all off it smooth with good ole 80 grit for the inlet, and outlet was smoothed out finer and spent a few hours polishing till bling bling :cool:.

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Valve hole on the right shows what it was before grinding, left shows part way through grinding.

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Never got any photo's from that night of finishing it off but It will improve flow no end (I hope :rolleyes:).

Next day it went to my local machine shop to have a couple of new guides fitted, skim, and reseat with new seals.

Inlet:
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Exhaust:
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A trip to another fairly local machine shop resulted in:

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1.8KG taken off the stilo flywheel, balanced with the clutch (happy days :D)

Got home that night and decided to make a hesitant start on re-fitting the head :cry:.

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I've never poo'ed myself so much tightening bolts up.

Was all fitted without so much as a sqeak (followed adived and gently wiped engine oil on the bolts).

So happy after that I then fitted my manifold and oil filter.

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Then began painting my head and fitted it next day along with water pump pipe from the old engine (new seal, again advise checking quite oftenly).

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Timed up and ready to go in :D

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Then postman came again (y). Hello drilled and grooved.

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That Weekend came, so did my friends brother (whom I owe a drink (y)) and something magical happened in a few hours.

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We did manage to break my new crank sensor in the process mind :bang:.

Sexy ;)
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Then I struggled a little for and inlet manifold but then I managed to source one from a fiat breaker then along came Kritip to help me with the wiring (thanks again bud (y)). Spent the last few days finishing that off and last night it fired up for the first time in 5 months.

Made some awesome bangs before hand though due to us having the coils wired backwards (oops), quick swap of the leads and it fired up first time (y).

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All that is left to do now is get myself a set of new tyres, get over to custom chrome in the morn and get my new front exhaust section made (yes we started the car up without and exhaust, sounded nice and loud :tempt:) Cov69, and kritip both were witnesses to the start up :D. Thanks again guys for your help.

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Ohh before I forget, here some pic's of the new wiring for the battery, starter, and alternator:


Hint, it's the big thick one without the fuse on it :D.
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Here's where i'm up to, i'll update this soon :D.
Re: Chalky, The 1.2 16v Sei

The 1.2 8v and 1.2 16v yes, they are the same. The 1.4 crank is different to cater for the different stroke.

Thanks

X

What do you mean by different stroke? IF the block is the same height ? And assume the rod be the same?

Shame about the gearbox :(, but surely you can still send the car down to have the inlet made?

Thanks
Ming
 
Re: Chalky, The 1.2 16v Sei

Just to clear things up for you ming.

1368 16v and 8v Bore and Stroke: 72mm x 84mm

1242 16v and 8v Bore and Stroke: 70.8mm x 78.9mm

These both use the same block just different bores, so the difference in stroke lengths is corrected by the crank. Meaning that you can swap the 1.4 pistons, rods, and crank into the 1.2 blocks (bored out obviously).

Aslong as your using the crank that matches the pistons and rods, it will all be fit in fine. If I used a 1.2 crank I would of had to have had several mm's skimmed off the block (very costly, as I was thinking about it :D).

Thanks

X
 
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Re: Chalky, 1.4 16v ITB Seicento

Mini update, engine is all in now.

Gearbox is defo fubar, 58k miles and now broken (n). I think I might use it for a rebuild at a later date. Or I could use the internals to try and work on my own straight cut gearing (later more expensive project I suppose).

Anyway pictures of the manifold all in on chalky with her tucked engine bay.

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Space is tight, I think they might need to be raised up a couple of degrees at the flange, might be better for space. Either way I want the inside of the manifold tidying as the air doesn't flow into the engine because of the step where tube meets flange (insert inuendo here :D). Ben at Spoox has promised to keep me cosy so i'm not going to complain.

Thanks

X
 
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Re: Chalky, 1.4 16v ITB Seicento

i am officially jealous, this is what i always wanted to do to mine, please tell me its gonna have a much higher raised limiter and be a proper screamer! wish i would have seen the thread earlier would have suggested sandy brown/colin satchell for ur itb manifold, theyre absolutely **** hot guys! Making me want another cinq/sei boooo :(
 
Re: Chalky, 1.4 16v ITB Seicento

straight cut gearing (later more expensive project I suppose).
Wouldnt bother...straight cut gears are usually used where there is stupid amounts of grip(never get that in a light weight front wheel drive car even with slicks) and bags of power, rally cars sometimes have them because of the strain on the gears caused by the wheels sharply loosing and gaining grip which is like taking a hammer to them.

youll never kill a box with power and even if you did you can just fit a box from a higher power/heavy car which has needle bearings rather then ball bearings...

if you kill that then... work on getting an abarth box to fit(just need new shafts making)... best bet is spending time/money on the cam carrier as I explain VVV
please tell me its gonna have a much higher raised limiter and be a proper screamer!

you cant raise the limiter on a 16valve engine :( until someone makes solid lifters to replace the hydro crap then the engine will never be a screamer like the 8valves are im afraid.
even at the standard limiter the lifters are compressing which looses valve lift(n)

its the same reason why you cant fit/get very spicy cams for the 16valve.
 
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Re: Chalky, 1.4 16v ITB Seicento

So something along the lines of the 1.4 8v would be more suited to a higher revving itb'ed cento? must stop having ideas... bad thoughts. :p
 
Re: Chalky, 1.4 16v ITB Seicento

nah the 1.4 is a very long stroke engine.

the best scremer would be a engine made from a 1.1 engine crank with 1.4 pistons.

the bore/stroke ratio of this is very close to a yamaha R1 engine lol would only be around 1.2 (actually less then 1242... cant remember but i worked it out 1228 rings a bell)
 
Re: Chalky, 1.4 16v ITB Seicento

You can get some very spicy cams for the 16V engines.

I was going to fit some but the cost just to have them would of been a tad much. I'm not referring to the C&B ones either.

These cams require the valve slotting on the pistons to be further machined due to the lift :D

Thanks

X

EDIT: I typed this message on my ipod and for some reason it decided to hit the "dislike" button on your post craig, sorry about that. Bloody thing. Must of been when I was trying to get onto the next page.
 
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Re: Chalky, 1.4 16v ITB Seicento

Apart form the lip, those look ace!!!! The longer tract length will help with low down torque. If they are scrapping the original, i'll make them an offer. Ditch the airbox and they'll be perfect :D

Much better than the first one's you had made up :)
 
Re: Chalky, 1.4 16v ITB Seicento

You can get some very spicy cams for the 16V engines.

I was going to fit some but the cost just to have them would of been a tad much. I'm not referring to the C&B ones either.

These cams require the valve slotting on the pistons to be further machined due to the lift :D

Thanks

X

EDIT: I typed this message on my ipod and for some reason it decided to hit the "dislike" button on your post craig, sorry about that. Bloody thing. Must of been when I was trying to get onto the next page.

ahhh i remember you telling me about them.

thing is the problem still exists.

even with the standard cams the lifters start compressing at around 5000rpm (if i remember) with a higher lift cam the lifters will be compressing sooner.

obviosly you will gain a lot from better cams but until the lifters are sorted you wont unleash their full potential. (n)

also with very high lift cams like you mention there is a higher risk of the lifters pumping up at high rpms
 
Re: Chalky, 1.4 16v ITB Seicento

I personally think fiat should of used shimmed bucket lifters, would of made more sense. Problem being you cannot measure clearances on these engines because of the head extension being sealed (n).

There is probably a way around it however :D.

Chalky is insured, but far from being able to go on a road.

Thanks

X
 
Re: Chalky, 1.4 16v ITB Seicento

yeah they should of but like all modern car engines they are made to be cheap and low maintenance

but it is doable and has been done ;)

basically all that is required it to machine a small grove into the head and cam carrier so you can do without the gasket and use sealer.

doing this means there is no gasket to crush (even a steel gasket wont work)

you then make or modify the lifters to make them solid then fit and remove the cam carrier while swapping top hat shims and checking clearance with plastigauge.

it will take ages but it rarely needs doing
 
Re: Chalky, 1.4 16v ITB Seicento

Bit of an update, still haven't taken the manifold back yet as I wanted to finish some of the wiring for it first (what a pain in the arse trying to figure the TPS out :D).

Anyway the reason you all read this thread. PICTURES!!!

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Some pictures of how I tucked the wires. May not be that interesting but hey :D.

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Also finally decided to finish my door handles. Wet flat and Polish, result:

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Thanks

X
 
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Re: Chalky, 1.4 16v ITB Seicento

Yea it was easy, but I got confused easily too :D.

Only wires left are crank, lambda, water temp, and finally air temp (last 2 are easy as I have already wired them once).

I will continue with my multimeter method tomorrow, trying to find a lambda sensor wiring diagram currently to make that easier.

Thanks

X
 
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