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Panda Current car -Panda 100HP turbo

Introduction

Again, hope you like:





Abarth manifold
Abarth IHI turbo
Custom downpipe
Stainless sports cat
supertrapp exhaust
PWR chargecooler
Bosch chargecooler pump
ViPec standalone ecu
Bosch 440cc injectors
NGK iridium plugs
Modified forge wastegate actuator
Bailey dumpvalve
alternate Bosch map sensor
cusco catch tank
etc..

-Andy
Car runs standalone ecu.. messing with the oem unit was a no go..

How does this play with the rest of the cars electronics, features, etc? What works or doesn't work now? I don't know how good you are with electronics, but I would assume that your rev counter and temp guage are no longer working and your trip gauge is longer accurate, etc. Considering you have a 3rd party solution, the power output is quite conservative. I assume you are concerned about the engine holding together without the additional strength of the t-jet components?
 
rev counter, speedo, fuel level, oil temp all functional trip computer can't measure injector time any longer so doesn't work -everything else fully functional..

reason the power is conservative is because of the compression ratio being so high preventing timing advance.. (standard @ 10.8:1)
 
I see. So you have kept the whole engine electronics system and literally just added the 3rd party ECU on. The FIAT part thinks the engine is not started, but it will still put stuff on the dash via the engine ECU CAN lines regardless. Would I be right in thinking you have the ECU light on permanently therefore?

You have gone about things in a sensible way. It's a fairly cheap mod really! I wouldn't push the internals of the engine any more than you have anyway. They are quite on the edge with just a little tune up.
 
shakey if i asked nicely would you give me a heads-up as to how you go about putting standalone in? Am i correct in thinking you leave the stock setup completely alone apart from coilpack, TB, MAP, lambda and injectors, and run these seperately with a second crank trigger wheel?
 
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Yeah the ecu light is on -looking up the error codes it thinks the following are missing: injectors, coil packs, lambda sensors, throttle, cam sensor, crank sensor and MAP (might of missed something)

Munkul -yeah literally just wire in the things that you want and leave the other bits...
 
Yeah the ecu light is on -looking up the error codes it thinks the following are missing: injectors, coil packs, lambda sensors, throttle, cam sensor, crank sensor and MAP (might of missed something)

Munkul -yeah literally just wire in the things that you want and leave the other bits...

im tempted to do standalone now.
 
do have drive-by-wire, but only 2 coils. Im going to find out if the mk1 manifold bolts on before doing anything else.

id be going megasquirt if i did, just for cheapness. Thinking about getting a knock link controller and wiring it into the standard knock sensor so i can map it myself properly. What do you reckon?
 
oh one more thing - did you need to do any alterations to the fuel pump wiring?

because essentially your ecu thinks the engine isnt running even though its turning over very fast - so how does it regulate fuel pressure? do you have to rewire it and run a separate regulator?

cheers
 
Fuel pressure is mechanically regulated in the tank, before it exits. That is why there is no return. It remains at 3.5 bar at all times. The pump will be on constantly over 200RPM or something.
 
i was told that side exit exhausts were illegal. A guy near me has a pulsar with side exits in same place as yours and was constantly getting pulled and getting fines and such.
 
Watched clips of you in the Panda last night on youtube, excellent !!:D:slayer::worship:
Perhaps we could hook up one day ?? I'm not that far from you IIRC.
 
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