Panda (Classic) SEAT Marbella (Mk1 Panda replica).

Well what else can you expect from a free gearbox

Seriously though, on my head it was a fantastic gearbox for as long as I ran it, oil was regularly changed (self service) and there was never any worrying noises.

AndyPanda4x4 said:

Well what else can you expect from a free gearbox

Seriously though, on my head it was a fantastic gearbox for as long as I ran it, oil was regularly changed (self service) and there was never any worrying noises.

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I feel bad, sorry wasn't meaning to look the gift horse in the mouth so to speak ...I know you looked after it well ... It's just a precaution as running bit more power through it than was intended, and I failed a diff before so I know it can happen. I'm just a bit over cautious with that part of the gearbox now! And want to maximise the chances for this bit of Hadrian to live on in the Motorsport world as well of course :slayer:

I've back peddled out of this now right? haha

forever in your debt,
Si

:worship:

Starter motor fits now ...



and it has a stud fitted too...which for some reason didn't go in straight even though I used a pillar drill...so maybe I check the perpendicularity of stage...

Nice job, Sir! I am watching with keen eyes how things get together eventually!
I will be really happy to hear about a test ride.

gtasomogyi said:

Nice job, Sir! I am watching with keen eyes how things get together eventually!
I will be really happy to hear about a test ride.

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Thanks man,

So I have been thinking about how to mill a recess into the aluminium and to keep with the garage engineering theme I have looked into something a chap at work suggested...using a normal DIY wood Router...



and did a small initial cut which seems to look ok (didn't want to do too much in case the router bits don't last long!)...



Budget milling machine :devil:

The answer to the question can a router be used for milling a recess into aluminium plate...is yes! I did go through a few bits but really once had got the knack of it they broke less frequently:



So now fits nicely onto the block and starter motor seems to be in the correct position (fingers crossed!):



..although discovered a new issue. The oil sump is actually stopping the plate from sitting flat on the block...so I've got some more cutting to do it seems!



Getting there though

Wow that's healthy and safe! Excellent work as always.

Adaptor plate is complete :devil:

Gearbox is modified for clearance with adaptor plate fixings etc:



Starter motor fits:


This is the position the clutch plate will sit at on the gearbox input shaft:


Only thing I can't get round is that the starter motor will be bolted to the adaptor plate and the fixings will be behind the gearbox bell housing...so irritatingly when I replace the starter motor I will have to split engine / gearbox!! Therefore a very much new starter motor will be going on haha!

Exciting times

pandamonius_maximus said:

Only thing I can't get round is that the starter motor will be bolted to the adaptor plate and the fixings will be behind the gearbox bell housing...so irritatingly when I replace the starter motor I will have to split engine / gearbox!! Therefore a very much new starter motor will be going on haha!

Exciting times

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Aye would be best to do that now rather than needing to do it again sometime soon!

Gearbox all cleaned up





might be an exciting weekend coming up :devil:

Well today is gearbox day...and I have stripped both the Y10 turbo and panda 4x4 gearbox to have a look.

This is the organised mess:



Looks very promising to be able to switch out the gear stack from the Y10 turbo and the final drive ring gear so that ratios are same as before. But does anyone know if I am right here? Can you just switch all the gears between 2wd and 4wd Panda gearboxes? What does Andy reckon I wonder ( andyholli ) :worship: Or anyone else to be honest. I will be doing a full day of measuring, and checking and assembling tomorrow but if all goes to plan will have a gearbox all ready to go on the car... :slayer:

Also got to see how the 4x4 power take off is done which is cool:



And judging by the casting part number the diff should be transferable with the addition of the 4x4 drive gear of course ...

Wow is that my old gearbox?!

AndyPanda4x4 said:

Wow is that my old gearbox?!

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Yes....yes it is! Still some mud coming out of bits and pieces haha.

They do clean up nicely but there is quite a lot of surface area to clean and bits for dirt to get trapped! Got to look the part though if it is to be winning races :devil:

It can get muddy again some day maybe during a rally :slayer:

Damn if only I'd have done that before then I could have charged you more than nothing!

Seriously though good work Si, I hope you can continue the efficient progression!

AndyPanda4x4 said:

Damn if only I'd have done that before then I could have charged you more than nothing!

Seriously though good work Si, I hope you can continue the efficient progression!

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It was 5 hours + of cleaning so you might've done the right thing lol...seemed a shame almost to remove the history though...I am quite familiar with Italian, Yorkshire mud types now :devil:

Hadrian will live on! :slayer:

pandamonius_maximus said:

It was 5 hours + of cleaning so you might've done the right thing lol...seemed a shame almost to remove the history though...I am quite familiar with Italian, Yorkshire mud types now :devil:

Hadrian will live on! :slayer:

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Si
On topic but sideways slightly :

Is the intention to drive in full 4x4 at all times ?
If so is the intention to insert a fluid coupling in the drive to try to eliminate wind up or is there another plan ?
What are your thoughts ?

As our projects an off roader with an increase in power and increase in wheel rolling diameter so 20% torque increase wheel and 40% power
We think a heavier fly wheel may help shock loads and be better for crawling plus the addition of a fluid viscous coupling will also help

Regards
Steve

pandamonius_maximus said:

The answer to the question can a router be used for milling a recess into aluminium plate...is yes! I did go through a few bits but really once had got the knack of it they broke less frequently:

So now fits nicely onto the block and starter motor seems to be in the correct position (fingers crossed!):

..although discovered a new issue. The oil sump is actually stopping the plate from sitting flat on the block...so I've got some more cutting to do it seems!

Getting there though

Click to expand...

Yes I have used a router to cut aluminium sheet before also rebate it slowly slowly catchy monkey [emoji1360][emoji1360][emoji1360][emoji1360]

Sjvarley said:

Si
On topic but sideways slightly :

Is the intention to drive in full 4x4 at all times ?
If so is the intention to insert a fluid coupling in the drive to try to eliminate wind up or is there another plan ?
What are your thoughts ?

As our projects an off roader with an increase in power and increase in wheel rolling diameter so 20% torque increase wheel and 40% power
We think a heavier fly wheel may help shock loads and be better for crawling plus the addition of a fluid viscous coupling will also help

Regards
Steve

Click to expand...

Sorry came into this thread late
Rear wheel drive conversion
Ah I see yes great idea
Sorry again

Fascinating stuff as always!
Keep up the good work.

Sjvarley said:

Sorry came into this thread late
Rear wheel drive conversion
Ah I see yes great idea
Sorry again

Click to expand...

Hi there,

no need to apologise, I will actually be attempting to use it in 4x4 mode only for short competitions. Usually runs are 30-50 seconds long and speeds not too high so there is not too much need for a viscous coupling I don't think. But there is a risk that the prop shaft won't take it or something will need to be made stronger. I will use in 2wd mode for general driving on the road though.

So there is an update today. I have rebuilt the 4x4 gearbox with the Y10 gears...and will hopefully be re-fitting engine and gearbox tomorrow :slayer:

The main challenge was fitting the Y10 / 2wd final drive ring gear onto the 4x4 differential. On a 2wd the ring gear is threaded and the bolts go through the diff. On the 4x4, the ring gear has no threads and the bolts go through the diff into the 4x4 output bevel gear on the other side. So I needed to get a bolt to fit through the ring gear so it could tighten into the bevel gear.

As I had access to a lathe I decided to turn down the neck of the bolts so it wouldn't engage both threads. I did look for replacement bolts but these are apparently quite specialist and was looking at getting custom bolts made up!! Couldn't drill out the holes in the ring gear either as the gear is tougher than all my drill bits!!!:

so 8 times:


The bolts are retained in the ring gear now:


And so tightened up I have a 4x4 /2wd hybrid diff!...


And 2wd gears all in place...


Fingers crossed I haven't forgotten anything...gearbox will go onto the car I hope tomorrow with the adaptor plate and a new starter motor. This is where I find out whether the 10mm thick plate causes any issues with the engine fitment...or clutch plate engagement... and also if the 4x4 propshaft alignment isn ok!