General marea 130jtd engine noise

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General marea 130jtd engine noise

hi guys, i will take a picture of a ribe bit and torx bit and put picture on this thread but it won't be until tomorrow night as all my tools are at work:) if i can find a suitable picture anywhere else before then i will put that on:) a bit down in the dumps today after taking marea into air-con place to get regassed after fitting broken pipe only to be told the system is 'like a sieve' and needs 2 further pipes replacing and a new air-con radiator:bang: :bang: :bang: that'll teach me for buying a car without all these things working(n) the list of jobs done so far is growing steadily including cam-belt, rear springs, front lower suspension arms, cd changer, air-flow meter, hand-brake cables, driveshaft boots, battery, etc etc plus all the usual service stuff:cry: :cry: by the time iv'e finished it should be about 50% a new car:D ah well, chin up, suppose it will be worth it in the end, bet you can't guess what my bank holiday weekend will be spent doing:rolleyes:
 
kev dedra said:
bet you can't guess what my bank holiday weekend will be spent doing:rolleyes:

I guess at the weekend you will be doing the Weekend...

It must handle and drive real nice with all the suspension replaced. Once I have paid for all the house/tipo and sorted some more work I'll start changing Marea parts. Which would you said made the most difference to the drive?
 
hi hellcat, lower arms on front suspension are worth looking at if they haven't been changed, its suprising how bad they are until you compare the bushes with new ones:D a simple test to see if yours are any good if you can't get onto a ramp to check underneath is to put a decent length torque wrench or cracking bar onto a wheel stud and sharply jolt the wheel stud (and hence the wheel) backwards, if there is much movement or any thumping noisesas you do that then the arms need changing(y) once these are changed and the tracking (very important!) reset the steering becomes very precise and improves the handling a lot(y) its like most things, once a good basic set up is restored things get a lot better:D iv'e never been a fan of lowering the suspension by simply fitting lowering springs, without serious alterations on the suspension geometry in the way of camber, lower arm angle, altered steering arm angle, reduced damper travel, roll centre etc etc its easy to make things worse!(n) they may look good but not necessarily handle any better. anyway i prefer to have a bit of fun at lower speeds with the normal amount of body roll! helps promote lift off oversteer to keep front wheels tucked in at the apex ( a carry over from my rally days!)(y) kev.
 
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DSCI0006.JPGhi guys, got you pictures of ribe bits and torx bits as promised:)

the top picture is of ribe bits
the middle is of a torx bit (not a good picture i know:( )
the bottom shows them side by side (the ribe is the one on the left if you can't spot the difference by now:D )
hope this has been a help(y)
 
kev,

yeah...it is good enough. now i am looking for a set of ribe bit. searching online if any.

btw, before u change the damper/pulley, can u notice the pulley if balanced or wobbling?

thks.
 
hi mate, i couldn't really see anything wrong with my pulley before changing, i just went on a hunch which paid off:) the noise seemed to be from that area and i was happy that i had eliminated any noise from the tensioner(y) kev.
 
hey,

today just send my car to another workshop and see if he can tell anything wrong with the pulley and tensioner or not. well the guy say...it is normal...:(

he said it is a like that for brava 1.8 and alfa 2.0 as well. however, he said when tensioner getting louder n lounder, then only change it. there is a rated life span for it too. about 40K.

guess have to live with the rattling sound when low rpm :eek:

i am glad that your is quiet now. will monitor my pulley closely and maybe take it out for a look if possible.

now looking for a set of ribe bits in ebay.uk.
 
told you all i was gonna be busy:D easter sunday spent getting all the air con pipes and condenser removed for new items to be fitted:D
 

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hello bulldog:D been watching your progress, fun isn't it:confused: keep up the good work, and remember to grease all those bolts when you put them back in(y) your bound to have to take it apart again sometime in the future:bang: :bang: :bang: keep smiling:D :D :D
 
kev :eek:

what a job u got there? fixing air con system too! u got all the 134a gas and a vacumn pump to suck all the air inside the air con piping before pumping in the gas again.

what actually wrong with your air con system? i had mine recharged with proper pressure and amount. before that it was a bit heavy when the compressor kicks in.

good luck man. may be it is also a good time to service your turbo as well since you have good access to it now. :rolleyes:
 
kev dedra said:
hello bulldog:D been watching your progress, fun isn't it:confused: keep up the good work, and remember to grease all those bolts when you put them back in(y) your bound to have to take it apart again sometime in the future:bang: :bang: :bang: keep smiling:D :D :D

hehe, cheers, glad some people are keeping up, i will give an update today, i might have the head off a bit later just a little stuck at the moment as i cant seem to find the engine mount :confused:

and about the aircon, i left all my pipes on as i didnt want the hassle of going to get it all regassed, i hope you did relise this?

Ryan
 
hi all, don't worry i haven't gone mad yet:D the air-con situation is all under control:eek: , honestly(y) when i bought the car i was told there was a cracked pipe which was why the air-con wasn't working:eek: question - when does a pipe stop being 'cracked' and officially be snapped in half:confused: anyway i had replaced the offending item with a new one from fiat (£50 odd quid:mad: ) and took it to local air-con place to get regassed only to be told i needed 2 more pipes and a condenser (radiator):bang: just took it apart to make sure what i needed before getting parts ordered, might seem a strange way of doing it but i wanted to make use of the long bank holiday weekend to strip it down to make sure i could get rebuilt in time for work;) i will get all parts sorted and fit them next sunday(y) i took the time to free off most parts i came across( i had already found the radiator cross member was loose and the bolts were siezed) so all was not lost and everything went back together after liberal use of tap&die set and copper grease(y) kev.:D
 
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:D forgot to mention, had an easy day today, finally got round to freeing-off the taigate release handle(y) its been sticking since i got the car a couple of months ago:D took the oportunity to take out the spindle on the rear wiper and regrease it, seems to be the part that siezes first on all the cars i have come across:) was working fine but was only couple of minutes work seeing as i had to take it off anyway(y)
 
sounds like all is going well then (y) how much was it to get the aircon regassed?

and yes, isnt it fun stripping a marea, its one rusty bugger! i cant get my bumper off thats why its still on :eek: had to break my engine under tray off aswell :eek:
 
£70 to get regassed:eek: my bumper was a sod to get off, all the bolts needed dousing in penetrating oil for a few hours before they would shift, then i found the 2 extra ones holding each side to wing bottom edge:p that made it easier to get off;) my engine tray wasn't a problem, i haven't got one:D
 
hi kev,

mine front bumper is kind of move in and out in about 10mm. this make it 'poor' fitting when the bumper is inward and the wheel arc does't flush with the bumper nicely. i have keep pushing it out to set it better.

i can see several screw holding the bumper when open up the bonnet and a few underneath it. it there any other screw that holding it. anyhow, all the screw is not 'firm' fitting and allow some room to play. so what determine the bumper possition?

picture will help.

thks.
 
hi mate, there are 4 bolts underneath, 2 near headlights, and 2 down each side bolting through to underside of wings which you have to take out the forward wheel arch guard to see (if your headlights are out you will be able to see them:) ) the bolts holding on the bumper are a torx type fitting but have a 'shoulder' on them to prevent tightening down fulley (don't ask me why:confused: ) but there is n't really any reason why you couldn't change these for standard metric 6mm bolts to let you tighten down a bit more(y) i know what you are saying about being a bit loose, mine felt like that before the bolts into the wing were tightened, might be worth looking there:) hope this helps(y) kev.:D
 
hi kev,

thanks for the tips. yeah, i did tighten up 2 screw underneath the bumper and 2 on top of the bumper just at the grill area. so u mean, i have to remove my front wheel and forward splash guard to tighten any other 2 screws?

will try that someday. ;)
 
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