Hi

Any help appreiciated and apologise if the question is daft.

My Marea Weekend 1.6 2001 as had a leak from the exhaust joint between the downpipe and middle pipe since I bought her. Yesterday I decided to fix with the aid of a new clamp. All went well until I took for a test run exhaust is now fine but after a couple of miles the car started to lack power and be a bit lumpy

Checked with OBD11 scanner and its thrown codes as above which I gather is a fault with the injector circuit on cylinder 1 and a multple\random misfire.

Is the exhaust repair complete coincidence and where should I start looking to remedy the fault. Cleared codes and P0201 as come imediately back.

cptcuddles said:

Hi

Any help appreiciated and apologise if the question is daft.



Is the exhaust repair complete coincidence and where should I start looking to remedy the fault. Cleared codes and P0201 as come imediately back.

Click to expand...

Hi ,
May be possible you've inadvertently knocked / damaged the nearest Lambda sensor / or it's wiring,

maybe unplug it / do a reset ,
then see what occurs - could be "limp - home - mode" is better than what you've got..,
Charlie

O2 sensors look ok

I,ve found one of the air hoses in the inlet was leaking so thats now sorted. Reset codes and test driven still misfiring only code now appearing is P0201 so I'm guessing P0300 could have been caused by the air leak.

Next job to the check the injector resisitance and wiring.

Just an update as I think I have solved the problem. New Injector should arrive next week and as weather was ok today thought I'd at least clean plugs and check HT leads over.

To cut a long story short Cylinder 1 lead came apart at the coil end, when I replaced it with a temporary one realised that it was connected to No.4 on the coil. Swapped leads 1 and 4 around on the coil and re-set MIL light. Car driven 10 miles runs lovely no MIL on leads have been wrong way round since I've had the car and I hadn't noticed.

The 1&4 and 2&3 are driven in pairs (wasted spark) on the 1.6 so you can swap the leads

Didn't realise that. Seemed to work until today, started misfiring again code showing so will check and replace injector once weather improves.

Lesson learnt "Read the forums". After doing so I used a multimeter to test resistance at the connector and had three readings at approx 14.5ohms and one at 3.5. I found the guide on removing the rail without taking the whole manifold off and No1 Injector was replaced in a about 90mins. EML is reset and now doesn't sound like an old tractor.

Oh well spoke to soon. Wnet for drive today car was fine all of a sudden cut-out and won't restart had to be towed to local garage. All plugs sparking and fuel to the rail just won't fire. Think I'll leave to the garage to sort

Re: P0201 & P0300 Help please latest

Garage rang today they have tried putting on a diagnostic and its not showing any fault codes. There is a crack running down the top of the coil pack so thats next on the list, next suggestion is checking the timing belt has not slipped somehow. Not feeling very confident at the moment

Re: P0201 & P0300 Help please latest

Hope it works out. Just had the belts and water pump done on the wifes 130JTD, £400 poorer, but is running like a dream.
Thermostat to swap ,oil&filter and diesel filter to do now. Help....

New coil and plugs didn't work, timing checked o.k. As a last measure before ebaying fitted a new crank sensor and low and behold it now starts and runs. Noticed revs drop quite sharply before rising to about 750-800rpm when dipping clutch when pulling up at a junction etc but at least its working now.

Re: P0201 & P0300 Help please latest

cptcuddles said:

Garage rang today they have tried putting on a diagnostic and its not showing any fault codes. There is a crack running down the top of the coil pack so thats next on the list, next suggestion is checking the timing belt has not slipped somehow. Not feeling very confident at the moment

Click to expand...

It appears that crank sensors are poor at flagging-up faults ,
so when a car "just dies" that's where I'm now tempted to look 1st ( well = 2nd after fuel gauge / cut-off switch),


glad it's up and running
Charlie

Just a quick thanks for the advise from everyone who responded. Working fine now touch wood

Also always worth checking the fuel inertia cut off switch. Ours would not start after we were away over Christmas. i had actually called a local recovery truck and that made me remember those embarassing stories where the tow truck arrives, driver gets out resets the inertia switch and away you go. Anyway I hadnt fixed a time so just rang back and cancelled it.
i was told that putting a charger on, which had to do to get it running, can trip them, but i dont know if thats right.