Tiramisu II failed on rear brakes, both parking and service.
Is that new calliper time?
Is that new calliper time?
Technical MOT Failed - Rear brakes
- Thread starter Hellcat
- Start date
Currently reading:
Technical MOT Failed - Rear brakes
Take the handbrake cables off, see they do not bind.
Use penetratingoil, wd or something and slowly put it trough until it comes from the other end while moving the wire, continue until the rusty stuff stops coming in large amounts. Put ATF into the wire the same way until it comes trough, at this point the wires should be moving freely.
Better take the calipers off, clean the carriers and wind the pistons back a bit so you can hear if the adjustment works at later steps. Reassemble and remeber to put grease on pads and carriers.
At this point, see if the handbrakelevers at the calipers are seized (left was on mine). I took the return spring off and used big pipewrench to move the arm back and forth while applying penetrating oil to the part where it passes to the caliper.
Do this until it is light to move (i did this for 5mins) and apply some ATF there too. Put the return spring back and if the spring has no problems returning the lever, its good.
Now you can start pressing the brakes engine off and you should hear the calipers faintly clicking as they adjust themselves. Install handbrake cables and leave the adjustment loose.
Do couple hard presses with power brakes and then try tightening the handbrake adjustment just until it snags a bit.
At this point the handbrake should work, and so should the normal brakes too, see that the handbrakelever at calipers return to rest position, otherwise the adjustment wont work.
Had no rear brakes since cables were stuck and left the handbrake "on" -> the adjustment did not work -> no rear brakes (except left one which was quite toasty after a longer drive).
If you dont use the handbrake, it will get stuck again at the caliper levers if they were stuck in the first place.
Popped off the rollers at the station when they yanked on the handbrake
Use penetratingoil, wd or something and slowly put it trough until it comes from the other end while moving the wire, continue until the rusty stuff stops coming in large amounts. Put ATF into the wire the same way until it comes trough, at this point the wires should be moving freely.
Better take the calipers off, clean the carriers and wind the pistons back a bit so you can hear if the adjustment works at later steps. Reassemble and remeber to put grease on pads and carriers.
At this point, see if the handbrakelevers at the calipers are seized (left was on mine). I took the return spring off and used big pipewrench to move the arm back and forth while applying penetrating oil to the part where it passes to the caliper.
Do this until it is light to move (i did this for 5mins) and apply some ATF there too. Put the return spring back and if the spring has no problems returning the lever, its good.
Now you can start pressing the brakes engine off and you should hear the calipers faintly clicking as they adjust themselves. Install handbrake cables and leave the adjustment loose.
Do couple hard presses with power brakes and then try tightening the handbrake adjustment just until it snags a bit.
At this point the handbrake should work, and so should the normal brakes too, see that the handbrakelever at calipers return to rest position, otherwise the adjustment wont work.
Had no rear brakes since cables were stuck and left the handbrake "on" -> the adjustment did not work -> no rear brakes (except left one which was quite toasty after a longer drive).
If you dont use the handbrake, it will get stuck again at the caliper levers if they were stuck in the first place.
Popped off the rollers at the station when they yanked on the handbrake
OP
OP
I replaced my handbrake cables last year when they froze on - water entering the outer sleeves through cracks and then freezing.
The car is still at the garage - probably with its calipers off sitting in a bath of penetrating oil... Guess I'll find out tomorrow what the damage is.
Other than that, not a bad MOT for a 13 year old car. Think it could do with new lower arms & track rod ends to tighten up the drive, but at least it has no chassis rot!
The car is still at the garage - probably with its calipers off sitting in a bath of penetrating oil... Guess I'll find out tomorrow what the damage is.
Other than that, not a bad MOT for a 13 year old car. Think it could do with new lower arms & track rod ends to tighten up the drive, but at least it has no chassis rot!
OP
OP
Ineffective brakes stripped and cleaned. Now working fine however the under a year old handbrake cables are already getting tight in the sleeves!
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2008
- Messages
- 4,983
- Points
- 969
Original or aftermarket cables..??
Sometimes huge difference in quality between them...!!
Sometimes huge difference in quality between them...!!
OP
OP
Aftermarket. Will have to make sure I get a different brand next time!
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2008
- Messages
- 4,983
- Points
- 969
I soaked them in Teflonspray before fitting...!
OP
OP
I can't read the word Teflon without thinking of Fernando Teflonso!
The F1 driver that nothing sticks to!
The F1 driver that nothing sticks to!
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2008
- Messages
- 4,983
- Points
- 969
Just use Teflonso, it's miracle stuff if you ask me....!!
Aftermarket cables just need to be soaked in some kind of lubrication...!!
Aftermarket cables just need to be soaked in some kind of lubrication...!!
