The more i read the more it concerns me that i could do more harm than good. I need to do an oil change and was thinking of using an engine flush but i'm alarmed at the number of references on the web on doing damage to older engined cars. Mine's an X reg Weekend and done 94k. I admit i've been lazy with regard to servicing (but now trying to make amends) so the last thing i need is to do damage to what is a "spot on" reliable engine.
Have any of you got opinions on the use of these flushes, had issues when using them, or can recommend one?
I realise each product would vary but what's the correct way in general to use these types of additives.

AnfielRed118 said:

the last thing i need is to do damage to what is a "spot on" reliable engine.

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If it ain't broke don't fix it.

All modern engine oils contain enough detergents to keep the internal engine components as clean as they need to be.

There is a theory that if you use too much detergent in an old or high mileage engine, it can do more harm than good.

About 30 years ago I went to a launch party at BP for a new engine oil they called VF7. It contained more powerful detergents than other oils and the advertising claimed that it would clean your engine better than any other oil. After a few months they were facing claims for damaged engines and the product was withdrawn from the market.

I would say not to use flushing oil in an old or high mileage engine and a new or low mileage engine doesn't need it.

Dave.

I usually use a can of flush every other oil change. I've never had any problems but I have been using it from around 30K now 60K if that makes any difference.

Unless you use crap oil, there's absolutely no need for an engine flush.
If you insist in flushing your engine, do it with a good quality oil, and change it ( together with the oilfilter) after 500-750 mls, after that, keep on using good quality oil, and change it at the recommended intervals (always with the filter!), and you'll be fine.

if you want to flush use forte only

NO, use good quality oil, it has everything needed for a good flush....

Even if you have neglected oil changes dont use flushing oil. It can destroy your engine if it dislodges some gunge which then blocks an oilway. From new you can use a high detergent oil the old air cooled Porsches used to do this, using a diesel oil from the first change after the engine was broken in. you could then run the engine for ever, if not from new, don't go there.

My ex father-in-law was a formula1 mechanic for maclaren , he ALWAYS said flushing-fastest way to kill an engine , 2things to do an oil change , -let the car sit ,engine running til the fan kicks in then switch it off,drain the oil,let it drain for an hour(heres the wackko bit) add 2litres of diesel(yes diesel,for diesel cars),where the oil goes, start the engine and let run till the temp gague starts to register,turn off and drain for 2 hrs , then replace the oil filter and oil.
I agree its as mad as a box of frogs , but iv done it several times to all the cars iv owned over the years and i have to admit(didnt really want to cos he's the ex) its worked perfectly every time.
Joker

iv used forte stuff without a problem, ran it for few k of miles too

beau said:

iv used forte stuff without a problem, ran it for few k of miles too

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yeah forte is fine, stick it in an run around with it for a week or so. some on ebay for only £2.50 a bottle instead of 10 atm too

Because of a rotten oil filter i've had no time to do a flush at the moment. Took it down to National Tyres, as it's close to where i work, to get it sorted quickly before the filter finally let go. WHAT A BUNCH OF IDIOTS. They snapped 2 of their tools in trying to get the sump plug out and just gave up. They replaced the filter and when they put the car back down the fitter ( and i use the term very loosely) proudly says "Well there was no oil in it anyway". His supervisor quickly reminds him that because he'd taken the filter off, most of the oil would have come out anyway. They refilled it and charged me £18. Me thinks next time, and it'll be soon, i'll do it myself, PROPERLY!!!!!
Having read previous threads the sump plug sounds like it will need penetrating fluid, a long bar and a bit of brute force plus probably a new sump plug.
Is it safe to apply heat directly to the sump to warm the area around the plug to help free it?

Please don't tell anyone I said this, but a big Stiltson will often bring a sticky sump plug out