Do you realy need to lock both cams? because that back one is a pain to get to without removing the inlet manifold. and i dont think the back cam can move if the front is locked can it? because they are joined by the big cogs, or am i missing some thing?

Locking cams n such is only really reserved for deisels

As long as the timing marks are where they were when you remove the belt everything will be sweet as

Is it your 1st cambelt change?

the 16v hasnt got the marks you dont do it with a piston at tdc like on a 8v

Biz said:

Locking cams n such is only really reserved for deisels

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Both should be locked (certainly not moved) using tools 1860985000.

why do both need locking though as the belt only conects to one, and the cogs at other end should stop the back one moving shouldnt it?

that was my thought too guys, make sure cam lined up and marked, change belt and ensure cam still lined up before turning engine over by hand and rechecking. ive only done 8v before, this is the first 16v i done, and want to do it asap. selling car so dont really want to buy locking tools to use prob just the once!

and, can a tool be fabricated at all??

Yes you can make the tools.

please advise on how to make the tools (im cheap!!!)

cheers

on the 1.2 16v on the mk2 punto sporting the exhaust camshaft is driven by the inlet camshaft (or vice versa?) so there is no need to lock both, locking one will lock the other. its a great idea and something i wish all twin cams had. it makes life so much easier.

i sometimes use a plastic clamp on the cam pulley if it isnt convenient to draw a few marks, clamping it to the head (with rocker cover removed). or if there's a hole in the pulley a nut and bolt can be used to lock it in place. the nut under the pulley (with a big washer if the hole is big) and the bolt through the hole, then tighten it till the bolt pushes firmly against the head (not so firm you damage the pulley or make it misaligned). although a quick few blobs of tipex is by far the quickest and easiest method.

i done it now with one, blooming haynes bloke must be drunk again.

you cant lock the pulley on these as it has to be loose when fitting the belt

dave said:

i done it now with one, blooming haynes bloke must be drunk again.

you cant lock the pulley on these as it has to be loose when fitting the belt

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well done
yeah the haynes writers are definately alcoholics

guess its one of those pullies where you are "supposed" to loosen the pulley bolts off so you get a perfect fit with the teeth on the belt, while at the same time not allowing the cams to move, then retighten the pulley in its new position once belt is in place. i've never actually bothered doing that, as if by magic the belt teeth always seem to line up perfectly for me with the pulley where it is. maybe i'm just lucky

i got mine done at my work today (a VW garage) was just in time, belt was hanging off, he thought water pump had collapsed it was so bad!

just marked with tip-ex and replaced as required, with new belt on its prob half a tooth off lined up marks, cam was not locked.

the big restart is tomorrow morning 8am, should be ok

yeah i've had the alignment slightly out by half a tooth or so when the new belt is fitted. i think the half tooth difference is due to the old belt stretching. in theory the timing will be more accurate than it was with the stretched belt, and your marks were in fact slightly out due to a stretched belt, so its nothing to worry about.

belt all fine now, car running like a dream

seems more responsive at low engine revs now, so yeah prob because of old belt stretching slightly.

engine quieter now, was a strange rattle type noise before that i thought was an exhaust heatshield, and the shreaking tensioner noise gone too!!

would certainly recommend getting belt done at proper intervals to all.

mine was close to gone, belt half off, no proper tension and some cracks in belt, phew, (sigh of relief!!)

job well done and tho cost me a belt kit and some labour (cheap) im happy was caught before destroyed engine.

how many miles had urs done? as mine is making that strange noise and its currently at 45k

so far been quoted £140 let us know

Had mine done a few weeks ago , cost £145 inc parts & labour.

My Brava had done 54.000 , well overdue so i was told, but done now and sorted for many-a-year

£140 all in is a good price, make sure that includes a new tensioner,
most of us on here say 50k miles for the 8vor 5 years. 40k miles or 5 years for the 16v
40k miles for any diesel engine especialy pugs

£140 all in is a good price, make sure that includes a new tensioner,
most of us on here say 50k miles for the 8vor 5 years. 40k miles or 5 years for the 16v
40k miles for any diesel engine especialy pugs

Hi Dave,

With regards to the cam lock you only need to do the front. The cams are connected by gears and if the front is lock then the back won't move. The back one is mainly for setting up the cams in the head.

Regards

James

JamesMK2 said:

Hi Dave,

With regards to the cam lock you only need to do the front. The cams are connected by gears and if the front is lock then the back won't move. The back one is mainly for setting up the cams in the head.

Regards

James

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yeah i know, see whole thread, was just checking as haynes said to lock both.
where club fire power gone?