Could this work

Please discuss
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FUEL-PUMP-BOOS...QQcmdZViewItem

i think every1 will say they are bo11ox

i know nothing about anything car wise really lol but i have been told all fuel consumption devices on ebay r crap

interesting theory but im betting there would be no noticable difference.
only if you had fooked wiring i suppose.
the other side is what the instructions sa.
where are they drawing power from? they could be bypassing the cars immobiliser

Well i think that they are claiming that the use of thicker wiring will therefore give you a higher voltage. But this is from the same people who bought us the glorified +20bhp mod chip. But a couple of the things that they have sold have actually been useful, like the Push button start which i have waiting for me to fit. Im just waiting to get my ICE installed so i know what space i have and where to put it as i will not actually be using the button for the ignition i will be using the loom and wiring it to the horn and vice versa.

fuel rail pressure regulator. enough said.

Not enough for me i havnt quite mastered the art of standard Mechanics yet thats a mission for another year when im older and less interested in modding but a little lesson/elaboration of the comment you made would be much appreciated.

I'm not an expert on these things but the last time I put a test meter on my car battery, it was showing a steady 13.5v.
Last time I tested a circuit on my car (I was fitting a towbar) every circuit read 13.5v.
Last time I had a dodgy fuel guage my meter showed 13.5v going into the sender but due to a dodgy earth, nothing coming out.

I'm fairly certain that car electrical systems are designed to run on an average 12v, a decent battery putting out about 13.5v.

If their test meter is showing 9v to the fuel pump then;
a. it is designed this way - for a reason
b. their battery is dying
c. faulty earth
d. dodgy electrics

Now, as has already been suggested on this thread, their promise to increase a car's power has been discussed on threads & found to be tosh (I seem to recall reading that the unit you scotchlock to your wiring loom is nothing more than a bunch of wires embedded in a block of silicone sealant - but I cannot vouch for the authenticity of that statement)

Translation for volxstu

it doesn't matter what power the fuel pump puts out and how much fuel it shifts as the injector rail (the bit that squirts petrol into the engine) controls how much petrol is squirted in to the cylinder... and the fuel pressure is controlled prior to the rail so the ECU knows how much fuel its putting in....

Also once running most fuel lines are self powering with the fuel pump only running to "prime" the system you will notice that it cuts out after its pressurized the system


and as for this claim

"If your engine does not receive enough fuel at high-rpm, it can melt pistons and destroy your engine in seconds. Protect yourself now!"



would like to know how modern engines survive during engine braking when no fuel is used due to the ECU shutting it off

I once had a piston shatter, you should have heard the racket as the con rod hit the sides of the cylinder wall
I'd really love to know, at what temperature a piston would melt though, and just how hot is it possible to get an engine before it cuts out?
(mate used to have a diesel that drank water. He carried a 5 gallon drum in the boot & only topped up when the engine stopped - as most of his journeys were 3 - 5 miles, he rarely put water in the rad)

basically, increasing the voltage at the fuel pump wont have any effect on the pressure of the fuel rail, so it cant have any effect on anything at all, so there is no benefit.

Any Design Engineer coming up with an electrical system that creates a 34%voltage drop due to incorrectly sized cabling would quickly be shown the door.

Cheers for the comments, so in all this company has only come up with one useful product and that has nothing to do with performance and even that i havnt tested yet. Y do ebay continue to let these people trade under there name now im not completely clueless on cars but they are selling things that i and am sure many others would not really know about. The idea does sound feasable but as you all have said the claims are actually crap. I thought that perhaps the voltage was regulated to 9volts but clearly not true. my car battery sometimes cab be up as far as 14 volts but recently with the audio running more efficiently can go down as far as 8 for prolonged bass tones.

ebay let them because ebay are making money and no laws are broken. plenty of shops sell the same type of crap, even halfords sell these kind of fake products.

products dont always do what they say on the tin, its not just car accessories, many markets are flooded with snake oil.

products arent sold because they are good or becaused they work, they are sold to make a profit, that is the only reason. if people will buy them then that is a good enough reason to sell them.

end of the day people should check things out before wasting their money, just as you have done with this thread, saving youself £12.49

Well, the claims are that the standard wiring 'robs' electrical current yet all I see is a 'kit' made up with cheapo Scotchlocks and crimp on terminals. Any electrition will tell you how ineffecient those connectors are - surely they should be soldered to increase electrical conductivity? Oh, and the cable ties look like the ones you get from Poundland...

Looks like a total con to me with no grounds whatsoever for its claims. As has been said above, the fuel pump has nothing to do with the fuel pressure at the injectors (unless it was seriously underperforming). Most modern fuel systems pump fuel at a higher rate than needed hence having a return circuit. The fuel rail controls/ maintains a constant pressure so speeding up the fuel pump will only make fuel return to the tank quicker.

Looks to be about as much use as a resistor chip