comps amp and sub

ive got some comps comming

http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/prod...?model=SPR-17S

and going to buy this amp to run a sub the comps off

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/jbl-gto754-p-4140.html

my sub is an alpine type r and is 300 wrms in a vented box
will the amp be ok running it all off ?


how easy is it to put the wiring in for the front comps ? do i go thru the door connector ? and where do i get cheap wire for the comps from ?

I would put the comps in a pod myself like I have.. The wires can go through the block connector I think, that is what I am doing with mine. Although I am doing this because I am running better wiring and 2 runs ie bi wiring my comps.. You could T-off the original wire if you wanted this would save hassle.. Cheap wire can be had anywhere really from halfords to hifi shops..
I am not sure about the quality of the jbl amp though I would look for something a little better perhaps on eBay..

can anyone suggest a good amp ? that wont underpower my sub and comps ?

Actually, for the money new, there isn't anything else to touch the 75.2/75.4.

The sub would be a touch underpowered (and must be wired to show a 4ohm load to the amp - that amp wouldn't be 2 ohm stable bridged across channels 3 & 4) but it shouldn't be too much of a problem

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/JBL-GTO-4000-4...QQcmdZViewItem

would that be better?

That's the 75.4 predecessor, so not really.

this any of these ? lol
http://thebassbin.co.uk/shop/product...s_id/2950.html

http://thebassbin.co.uk/shop/product...s_id/2953.html

Nope, still would have the 75.4. Like I said, unless you go second hand, the 75.4 is the best you're gonna get for 100 quid.

honestly, i would get a monoblock to run your sub, like This one here then to run your comps something like This one now if you notice i go over on the RMS rateing, this gives the amp more controll over the speakers, giveing you a higher SQ, and also a far less chance of blowing them up. hope this helps you a bit. if not, just shoot one of us a PM!

There's just one tiny flaw with that, and that is that the budget may not stretch far enough to get 2 amps and the associated extra wiring. Then again that may not be the case.

Headroom is always a good thing although you need to be sensible with it - too little power doesn't kill speakers (as long as it's clean power, i.e. not distorted); however too much power can and will kill speakers - some are more susceptible to it than others, i.e. some speakers can take a lot more than their rated RMS power, but some can only take a modest amount of 'extra' power. If you do decide to go for some headroom, you need to deliberately keep the gains lower than you normally would have them, to be on the safe side.

if i can use the amp i have for my sub i could getthe jl amp for my comps what would i need to wire 2 amps ?

amp i have for sub


Output (peak)
Into 4 ohms Stereo @ 14.4 Vdc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150W x 2
Into 2 ohms Stereo @ 14.4 Vdc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .240W x 2
Into 4 ohms Bridged @ 14.4 Vdc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .480W x 1

Power Output (rms)
Into 4 ohms Stereo @ 14.4 Vdc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110W x 2
Into 2 ohms Stereo @ 14.4 Vdc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .170W x 2
Into 4 ohms Bridged @ 14.4 Vdc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .340W x 1

Recommended Fuse Size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25A x 1 ATO style
Dimensions ("). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12.25L x 9.0W x 2.25H
Frequency Response . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ±1dB, 20Hz to 20kHz
Signal to Noise Ratio (A-weighted) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .>100dB
Input Sensitivity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200 mV to 4V
Crossover Slope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12dB per Octave
DC Input Voltage Range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 10V to 15.5V
Typical Current Draw at Idle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <2A
Minimum Bridged Load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Ù
Minimum Stereo Load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2Ù

High efficiency extruded aluminium alloy heatsink
Laser etched and illuminated BBG Audio logo
Variable high or low pass crossover configurations
Auxiliary outputs provide signal for additional amplifiers
Fully complimentary output stage
Oversize PWM MOSFET power supply
Low ESR/high capacitance voltage rail support
Four gauge power and ground terminals
Advanced thermal and overload protection
Optimised muting circuitry eliminates turn-on and turn-off noises
Gold plated power and speaker terminals
Gold plated front and rear signal input jacks

didnt win it

i always have a habbit of forgeting budgets. and chaos what your saying is right, i need to quit thinking pro-sound and start thinking budget car audio. ohh well, time to go play with a broken loudspeaker.

right amp should be comming tomorrow

http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/pro...s_id/3675.html

i have 4 gauge power cable going to my current amp and sub
not sure of the fuse thats on it at the min ill have to update tomorrow

what splitter should i get and power wire and fuses and what wire should i use for my new comps ?