sound deadening / 4 channel amp

rite two simple questions. i seen pauls sound deadening of the panda and it was very extensive. i dont plan on anything that thorough. i want to deaden the doors, rear quarters and boot

theres just a rattle from the driver door atm but i'd rather do the whole thing while im at it. do i use dynamat just to play it safe or is there alternatives. cheaper possibly as there is absoloutly no rattle at rear quarters or boot but deadening may help with new sub/amp. also how to you apply it. just stick it tho the speaker side of the panel between speaker and panel and all around?

i thought there was a problem with the door panel being held on tight with those trim clips so i cant imagine sound deadening helping that?

also im going to change all the speakers but i think i may amp the new ones. question is with a four channel amp do i loose the likes of balance fader etc? or does the amp take four inputs and have four outputs or just the phono input?

Most four channel amps are type A/B which means that they take two sets of preouts Front/Rear so you should still have all the settings on your HU. But with this type of amp you would be better off setting the levels using the amp as each half of it would be controllable seperately. Just check all the above before you buy.

My sound deadening is a little OTT for most, but I compete with the car and it's sometimes used for demo purposes (come along and it at the Street Life show, Birmingham NEC 5/6 July).

That said, if done properly does make a big difference. As does what product you use.

If for example you use lead flashing, you'll need 2-3 times as much and there's a good chance it'll fall off the panel when the weather gets hot. So I'd only consider Dynamat Xtreme or Second Skin Damplifier Pro (I think Dynamat is on special offer right now at most dealers who stock it).

A sheet on the door and a sheet on the inner skin (so it covers the holes behind the card) should give very effective results in the door. Then a sheet on the rear quarters, then another few on the boot floor and you're set.

Handily that works out at 9 sheets, which means a bulk pack of either product will provide all you need. Cost is around £120, but well worth it.

I know this is of topic. But I've got some to put on but I'm not sure it the door card will go back on?

Don't stick it on, just offer it up and see.

I'm sure it will though.

i would love to go 2 a show but live in ireland so it would be quite a long way away for me, lol.

i knew your deadenings was a bit much for me but i do wanna make a difference at least. what do you mean a sheet on the door and a sheet on the inner skin? as in other side of door panel and the inside panel accesible when door panel is removed where the speaker it attached to? sounds logical. for the quarters just use one on the inside panel then? havent decided whether to amp all4 or just front 2 yet.

cheers for the advice though!

By inner skin, I mean the bit with all the holes in. Try seal them up as best you can





**cough** thank you button **cough**

so whats the other skin? did you remove the door panel and the panel seperating the window and dampen that too?

In order of importance:

1. Outer skin - this part resonates the most, give it a tap and it will sound tinny.
2. Inner skin - seal the holes best you can to try create an enclosure of the door
3. Door card - just to stop rattles.

A well soundproofed is critical for good midbass.

ok im in the process of sound proofing now, got some normal dynamat tho i can see me needing some more so may get some dynamat extreme for the inner skin

ive one problem tho that i recently noticed. rub strip on driver door is vibrating. took me ages to figure out what it was. i had mine colour coded so the clips were broke and it was power adhesived back on, obviously some of it has lost its grip, just wondering what you would do to resolve?

was thinking putting small spongy rubber pads inbetween the trim and door and maybe a bit of silicone though im not sure if thats the right idea lol