Effect is less pronounced (comparing to brakes), but it's there (due to air bubbles).
And it is affecting foot force needed and effective pedal stroke (therefore operation of the clutch), plus slave cylinder internal spring makes a difference too (when you swap the cylinder for new one or different brand).
You can drive (switch gears) with partially airlocked clutch, but it's not advisable of course.
And yes, you can drag air into the clutch system during brake bleeding, especially if you run below "MIN" mark and touch the clutch pedal.
As for brakes bleeding, DIY style, sequence doesn't matter much really (but common practice is to start closest to the ABS unit).
Automotive YouTubers should make such test, to "myth-bust" this. Build a brake system model with clear tubings, etc.
Also, you can completely ignore ABS system (pretend it "doesn't exist"). Just do classic "two person method".
Some people claim, that you should limit the pedal stroke (put something on the floor, under the pedal, piece of wood, etc.), to avoid pump seals damage (possible in old neglected cars, where some residue may collect in unused areas of the pump bore). That makes sense. Brake pedal, normally is never pushed to the floor.
One liter is spot-on to make full fluid change, brakes + clutch.
PS
Be careful with internet stars like "ChrisFix". He is a good example of
"Dunning-Kruger effect" (Weaky-pedia).
He clearly doesn't know his limitations (skills and knowledge), yet gives "advices" to millions of clueless viewers.