Technical Wouldn't start, immobiliser issue + power steering issue - or so I thought

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Technical Wouldn't start, immobiliser issue + power steering issue - or so I thought

tttonyyy

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Had the car about a week.

Went to hop into it to come home from work, and nothing. Wouldn't crank, light on dash with a picture of a padlock through a door frame.

Got a lift home and did some googling, reading here. Low battery seemed to be a culprit, along with poor earths. So I returned to work armed with a toolkit, meter, jump leads and a mate with a van.

Sure enough, battery was low - 11.5V. Stuck the jump leads on with the van running. Still wouldn't start. Disconnected the battery for a while, reconnected. Still wouldn't start. Took the battery out and charged it, put it back in. Jumped negative to some body metal, and some engine metal, in case of poor earth. Didn't help.

Having disconnected the battery a few times, started to get warning on the dash about the power steering module needing checking. But I didn't think that immobilised the car?

Sounds pretty bad so far, right?

OK, so eventually I find that if I leave the key in the run position, and disconnect the battery for ten seconds, and reconnect - it will let me turn the ignition off and on again quickly and crank the engine to start.

At this point every dash light is complaining, and the display is reeling out list of things that won't work, ABS, hill start, power steering, all disabled. But, engine is running, so I drive it home.

At home, I take the key out of the ignition, and the engine is still running. This car is very confused. I am doubting it will ever be usable again.

I go to stall it by selecting reverse, but as soon as I move the gearstick, the engine stops. Odd.

Open the bonnet, I can hear some actuator whirring on the engine. Not good, considering it is supposed to be stopped. Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery doesn't stop it. My DC clamp meter showed a 3A draw - presumably why the battery went flat.

...and there I will leave this post, to be continued later. I did fix it... eventually. Anyone care to guess? :p
 
Had the car about a week.

Went to hop into it to come home from work, and nothing. Wouldn't crank, light on dash with a picture of a padlock through a door frame.

Got a lift home and did some googling, reading here. Low battery seemed to be a culprit, along with poor earths. So I returned to work armed with a toolkit, meter, jump leads and a mate with a van.

Sure enough, battery was low - 11.5V. Stuck the jump leads on with the van running. Still wouldn't start. Disconnected the battery for a while, reconnected. Still wouldn't start. Took the battery out and charged it, put it back in. Jumped negative to some body metal, and some engine metal, in case of poor earth. Didn't help.

Having disconnected the battery a few times, started to get warning on the dash about the power steering module needing checking. But I didn't think that immobilised the car?

Sounds pretty bad so far, right?

OK, so eventually I find that if I leave the key in the run position, and disconnect the battery for ten seconds, and reconnect - it will let me turn the ignition off and on again quickly and crank the engine to start.

At this point every dash light is complaining, and the display is reeling out list of things that won't work, ABS, hill start, power steering, all disabled. But, engine is running, so I drive it home.

At home, I take the key out of the ignition, and the engine is still running. This car is very confused. I am doubting it will ever be usable again.

I go to stall it by selecting reverse, but as soon as I move the gearstick, the engine stops. Odd.

Open the bonnet, I can hear some actuator whirring on the engine. Not good, considering it is supposed to be stopped. Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery doesn't stop it. My DC clamp meter showed a 3A draw - presumably why the battery went flat.

...and there I will leave this post, to be continued later. I did fix it... eventually. Anyone care to guess? :p
Faulty ignition switch or switch wiring?
 
It's a close guess :)

Part 2: Finding the 3A draw

I started removing fuses from the engine bay fusebox to find the source of the 3A draw, and maybe some clues. Some of the fuses seemed to stop it.

But, I noticed that wriggling the fusebox made some of the relays click. And if I twisted it *just so* the actuator making the noise in the engine bay would go quiet and the 3A drain would stop.

So I took the fusebox out, disconnecting it from the loom.

Some evidence on the underneath of crude wire-brushing to the terminals.

So I put a wire brush wheel in the dremel and carefully polished all the pins... and pulled each relay, and polished them all up too. Some were a little corroded. Liberal application of contact cleaner in the relay sockets and loom multi-plugs, and put it back together with grease on the connector shells.

...and - it lives again! Back to starting and stopping normally without drawing current when it shouldn't. For a day I had the power steering light on the dash, but then it went out - I guess it takes a few start/stop cycles to clear?

I suspect it was the speed bumps on the way into work's car park that dislodged something...
 
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Had the same problem recur - it was stopped OK, no noises, came back to it refusing to start again. Wiggled the fusebox and it was then happy to start.

I'v got a replacement fusebox to fit, but I'm wondering if it coincides with rain getting onto the wiring loom - and wiggling the fusebox just disturbs where water sits on the wires.
 
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