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Technical Grande Punto TJET ABS brake fluid change?

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Technical Grande Punto TJET ABS brake fluid change?

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everson38

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Hey Guys,

Sorry if this is taboo starting new thread, but i feel its not 100% percent covered since i have a tjet.

So i have a 59 plate grnade punto 1.4 tjet sporting. I am lookin gto change the brake fluid soon as it has been awhile and was quite confident, but i stumbled across on youtube about ABS systems are different and cannot be done the traditional one man home made bleeder, but needs to be pressured and also consider remove the abs fuse and relay?

Has anyone change their brake fluid on an ABS GP, or even better has the exact model as mine and done it. are their any pros and cons etc?

Just do not want to mess this job up
 
No real magic.
I do not have a GP but the Bravo is pretty much identical. I have replaced the fluid a few times... also replaced the calipers and the brake pump.. so have done quite a lot of work on the braking system.
I only once needed to use MES to run the ABS pump.. i think i bled the reservoir dry.
1.You first use a syringe to suck up all the fluid in the brake reservoir then add the new one in there. This operation alone does about 40% of the entire fluid.
2.Add new fluid;
3.There are numerous ways of going around the car... does not really matter as long as you get nice clean fluid to each caliper.
4.MAKE sure that your bleed nipples are not rusted stuck. you can easily brake them off.... leading to a new caliper.
5.MAKE sure you have good 6 face/hexagonal wrenches so you do not round-off the bleed nipples.
6.The Bravo uses 2 nipple sizes 8mm and 10mm.


I use a one way check valve and 2 pieces of hose, one in a bottle, one on the bleeder... that way i can bleed the calipers on my own, without any help:
http://photos.motoiq.com/MotoIQ/Project-Cars/Project-S2000/i-WZSN8d2/0/M/IMG_6689adj-M.jpg

Just put the hose over the bleeder.. make sure you put the first hose vertical... so the air moves to the top of the hose... and none goes back to the caliper....a few pumps and all the air and old fluid will be pushed through the check valve.
 
If possible, use a different color brake fluid, that helps to see when the old one gets into your bleeding bottle...
Also go from the farest to the nearest brake when bleeding, with engine off, the ABS -in normal condition- just does nothing .
You MUST use a six faces spanner for the bleeder !!

Regards, Bernie
 
aurick86 said:
No real magic.
I do not have a GP but the Bravo is pretty much identical. I have replaced the fluid a few times... also replaced the calipers and the brake pump.. so have done quite a lot of work on the braking system.
I only once needed to use MES to run the ABS pump.. i think i bled the reservoir dry.
1.You first use a syringe to suck up all the fluid in the brake reservoir then add the new one in there. This operation alone does about 40% of the entire fluid.
2.Add new fluid;
3.There are numerous ways of going around the car... does not really matter as long as you get nice clean fluid to each caliper.
4.MAKE sure that your bleed nipples are not rusted stuck. you can easily brake them off.... leading to a new caliper.
5.MAKE sure you have good 6 face/hexagonal wrenches so you do not round-off the bleed nipples.
6.The Bravo uses 2 nipple sizes 8mm and 10mm.


I use a one way check valve and 2 pieces of hose, one in a bottle, one on the bleeder... that way i can bleed the calipers on my own, without any help:
http://photos.motoiq.com/MotoIQ/Project-Cars/Project-S2000/i-WZSN8d2/0/M/IMG_6689adj-M.jpg

Just put the hose over the bleeder.. make sure you put the first hose vertical... so the air moves to the top of the hose... and none goes back to the caliper....a few pumps and all the air and old fluid will be pushed through the check valve.
Click to expand...
thanks for all this.

So you have ot had to remove fuses or relays for you ABS etc, as i know how to do a fluid change, but then started hearing things about ABS systems are different etc???
 
Bernievarian said:
If possible, use a different color brake fluid, that helps to see when the old one gets into your bleeding bottle...
Also go from the farest to the nearest brake when bleeding, with engine off, the ABS -in normal condition- just does nothing .
You MUST use a six faces spanner for the bleeder !!

Regards, Bernie
Click to expand...
ok so does your car ave ABS? and have you canged brake fluid and done it the typical way you expect with no new considerations for ABS being involved
 
everson38 said:
thanks for all this.

So you have ot had to remove fuses or relays for you ABS etc, as i know how to do a fluid change, but then started hearing things about ABS systems are different etc???
Click to expand...

You don't have to do anything to the ABS system... there might still be a very small amount of fluid inside the abs pump.. but to little to worry about it.
 
As said earlier, when not activated, the ABS does just nothing ! The brake fluid pumped from the master cylinder simply goes thru the ABS internal valves and reach the brakes receiving cylinders thru 4 separate channels.
In case of a wheel blockage, one valve release the pressure on the brake by diverting the corresponding channel to an internal buffer, the buffer is then emptied to the reservoir.

That's a bit more complicated but you got the idea...

Regards, Bernie
 
Last edited:
Bernievarian said:
As said earlier, when not activated, the ABS does just nothing ! The brake fluid pumped from the master cylinder simply goes thru the ABS internal valves and reach the brakes receiving cylinders thru 4 separate channels.
In case of a wheel blockage, one valve release the pressure on the brake by diverting the corresponding channel to an internal buffer, the buffer is then emptied to the reservoir.

That's a bit more complicated but you got the idea...

Regards, Bernie
Click to expand...
Thanks again I plan to do these jobs in the next few week. Will let you know how I get on. Are you driving a grande punto ?. Sorry but are the bleed valves same sizes or different.on back?
 
The bleeders have all the same size, to avoid "rounding" them, use a "eyed" spanner, preferably 6 faces if you can find one... size is 8mm but 5/16th will do the job also.

Regards, Bernie.

ps: the other half drives a GP 1.3mjt, and I drive a Passat CC :-D
 
Bernievarian said:
The bleeders have all the same size, to avoid "rounding" them, use a "eyed" spanner, preferably 6 faces if you can find one... size is 8mm but 5/16th will do the job also.

Regards, Bernie.

ps: the other half drives a GP 1.3mjt, and I drive a Passat CC :-D
Click to expand...
Isn't just me or is it very hard to find a six sided spanner in UK ???
 
It's not you, they're very hard to find, the one I use is actually not a completely eyed spanner, that's the type of tools used by mechanics on injection couplings and hydraulic piping. Alternatively you can unlock the nipple with a 6 faces socket and then proceed with a 12 points eyed wrench...

Regards, Bernie
 
You can use a deep socket .. those are easier to find 6 sided.
Just use it for the initial loosening of the bleeder and the final tightening ( do not over tighten it).
While bleeding you can use a simple 12 sided spanner, but do not over tighten it.
 
everson38 said:
Isn't just me or is it very hard to find a six sided spanner in UK ???
Click to expand...

Hi,
I take it you mean a hex (6 point) ring spanner? The 12 point (double hex) style is much more common. The reason is that with a hexagonal shape nut or bolt only the points take the load so there is no difference between a 6 and 12 point spanner. In practice a well made, correct size, spanner of either type is OK. There are special spanner designs e.g SnapOn FlankDrive that apply force to the flats rather than the points which are good for tight fastners. There are also special spanners for pipe fittings (flare nuts) e.g. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/7-piece-flare-spanner-set/ that are ok for bleed nipples.

Robert G8RPI.
 
THIS is the tool you need ;-)
 

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g8rpi said:
Hi,
I take it you mean a hex (6 point) ring spanner? The 12 point (double hex) style is much more common. The reason is that with a hexagonal shape nut or bolt only the points take the load so there is no difference between a 6 and 12 point spanner. In practice a well made, correct size, spanner of either type is OK. There are special spanner designs e.g SnapOn FlankDrive that apply force to the flats rather than the points which are good for tight fastners. There are also special spanners for pipe fittings (flare nuts) e.g. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/7-piece-flare-spanner-set/ that are ok for bleed nipples.

Robert G8RPI.
Click to expand...
Thanks Rob got a little lesson there. Always good to learn something new lol.
 
Can anyone recommend how many litres to buy when bleeding the brakes to ensure you have enough for regular top up. As I no u could return what you don't use but since I'm doing shop 4 parts it maybe more hassle as their is no stores
 
Hey guys just putting.up some.pictures.of the work on bleeding.my.brakes. ( really annoying that different bleed sizes on rear.and.front so as you can see the old darker fluid and. The new fresh fluid. Once again any noob who want any help let me.know as it is pretty fresh in mind.

Thanks to all who helped me out
20170907_182241.jpeg20170907_151700.jpeg
 
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