So the GP has gone to the garage this morning for diagnostics.
Car is under warranty so I'm slightly miffed that I have to pay to diagnose a problem when I paid for the car only a month ago!

List of problems.
Engine management light on.
Other week the car kept running after Id taken the key out.
Refused to start the next day until bumped.
Blue and Me keeps switching to Aux, to remedy you have to switch the car off and on.
Sometimes the miles flash.

To me this sounds like a proxy alignment needs doing?
What's the average cost on this because knowing my luck, it won't be classed as a warrantable repair :'(

Am I within my rights to request the list of fault codes found?

itsowenhowarth said:

So the GP has gone to the garage this morning for diagnostics.
Car is under warranty so I'm slightly miffed that I have to pay to diagnose a problem when I paid for the car only a month ago!

List of problems.
Engine management light on.
Other week the car kept running after Id taken the key out.
Refused to start the next day until bumped.
Blue and Me keeps switching to Aux, to remedy you have to switch the car off and on.
Sometimes the miles flash.

To me this sounds like a proxy alignment needs doing?
What's the average cost on this because knowing my luck, it won't be classed as a warrantable repair :'(

Am I within my rights to request the list of fault codes found?

Click to expand...

Is it going back to the same garage you bought it from? Is it a Fiat dealer?

I would not pay anything if any of the above questions is yes. Tell them you expect all the problems, the root causes to be fixed under warranty. It is only a month !! How many miles have have you driven it since you bought it? Also exactly when did it start playing up? Problems do not sound like proxy alignment to me. You need to be prepared to kick some butt here. They will fob you off with excuses but for a car to stop working and have problems such as this just a month after it being bought is rubbish.

When you go into the garage to discuss the car make a point of talking to the service manager an not just the fall guy.

The car hasn't gone back to the original garage as I wanted a concise and accurate diagnosis.

It has gone to an RAC approved warranty garage so it's still covered.

Why I'm contemplating is getting the diagnostic info back and just slapping it on the desk where I bought it.

The place bought it is quite reputable and I went there as it was recommended by my friends father who is a registered Audi Specialist.

I know the car isn't an Audi but he buys cars from there and sells them on.

The only issue I've had with the garage from initial purchase is - they replaced my indicator stalk and shroud from around the steering wheel and put the wrong one on so I no longer have cruise control but I'm in constant contact and on their back for when they source one!

I've looked online and can't find one myself so.... I think there is some truth in their reply.

If you told the garage about the problems within the first 30 days you may be able to reject the car (if you want to, if can't be fixed). Also the warranty should cover any diagnostics from a approved garage. Also some advice, if you get a car on a credit card (min 100) you can claim car cost back from the issuing company. I did this just in case this time round. Had loads problem's with last car). Also know not best idea but legally it's good idea. If you can afford to put a down deposit on the car and get finance. You can claim the money back off the finance company even after the 30 period as they are legally required to. I've been done before so looked into it all. When pay in full your rights are not has great :-( car still running with no key could be water in the fuse box (loads threads saying this in the forums)

I paid in cold hard cash.
Shall pay the diagnostic which is £40 and then try and speak to garage and see if they can offer some sort of goodwill! The beggars!!

I used pay cold hard cash until got gp. Car had before I had 18 month and spent most that time in garage not working. Now I won't pay cash anymore due to all trouble had with it and trying get them sort it. Hopefully a easy fix and can sort it

Got my phone call back. It's thrown up loads of P codes which he says are communication blips between the ECU and other instruments and a different code that suggests there is a problem with the fuel temperature sensor.

He said there is nothing seriously wrong with the car.
He's providing me a list of codes and clearing them, asked me to drive it for the week and take it back for another check at no charge

Will list some codes later but apparantly they're a mile long but could be from since it was new?

Sometimes codes get stored. Ive had cars that give me codes that already been dealt with. Usually doing what needs doing and then clearing codes should be fine. Sometimes they will come back. If they do then some problem may still be there. Best thing can say is get codes and speak to the warranty and/or garage got car from and see if they'll cover it. Also p codes are ob2 codes (these usually same across cars with obd2 reader) that give you what wrong but could be different things that can cause it. Do you have access to multiecuscan as this more than likely give you a better idea than a genetic code. Google the p code and may be able get a list off what may cause this. But has only a month old and got a warranty try get them deal with it before spend any money on it. Also what gp is it? Good luck

there is a FIAT list here on FF,
DOBLO section maybe.. use SEARCH,
charlie

The car is a 1.9 MJET Sporting 130.
The code is P0180.



Where is the temperature sensor on this car?

Open or short circuit can be a bad wire/connector or just a sensor. Try near the fuel filter. Other posts say its there. Also this can be an interesting read
https://www.fiatforum.com/grande-punto/344696-help-advice-needed-urgently.html may just help you

I've had my hands around the fuel filter and there seems to be diesel residue around the connector at the connector at the bottom.

I'm thinking it may be loose as I've seen they screw in and out when switching from the old to the new filter.

If it's loose would diesel make its way through?

There's definitely no puddle or collection underneath as its bone dry and the cable feels dry so it's not running down it.



Thanks guys! Like having someone to talk to about it!! Haha

I've also had the battery tested by Halfords, I went in to actually buy one and he insisted on testing it first and then said I didn't need one so ultimately lost a sale so.....
The battery is spot on and the car always starts faultlessly apart from the one instance mentioned on the original post.

itsowenhowarth said:

I've also had the battery tested by Halfords, I went in to actually buy one and he insisted on testing it first and then said I didn't need one so ultimately lost a sale so.....
The battery is spot on and the car always starts faultlessly apart from the one instance mentioned on the original post.

Click to expand...

don't put much faith in their " testing",

Charlie

Loose screw could let diesel come out. Also could let air in depending how bad it is etc but usually fine. If let's air in then the car won't have enough pressure to start, hence why petrol easier fix and better option ;-)

Not sure if that's the case then as even after having diesel pipe connectors off the top of the filter, replacing them it still started okay.

Am gonna get it taken off tomorrow when I have enough daylight to play with and have a look at the connector as that looks doused in fuel. Could be shorting it.

Could be. If fuel getting on then over time will corrode. I had a diesel leak on one my old cars and after about 18 month it took out a coolant pipe why I was away on holiday (had new born baby as well). Luckily I seen the puddle so for best part off a week I topped up with water till got it sorted. Will give you a tip that a fit at a garage told me. When doing fuel filters on a diesel have some diesel handy. This will hopefully help when trying start car over again. As air will get into fuel system an cause car to need bleeding (may be self bleeding on turn over a few times). Putting diesel into the filter will hopefully take the air away. Good luck

pre-filling filters, both oil and fuel is always a good idea
( best to check the filter actually fits 1st - thanks Halfords..)

Charlie

Charge battery get battery tested check earth straps