Technical Rear caliper removal??!

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Technical Rear caliper removal??!

aheaton22

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Sep 9, 2013
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I've removed the x2 17mm and the x2 13mm bolts and everything seems quite solid still, how do you remove caliper?
 
The 2 x 13mm hold the caliper to the carrier.
The 2 x 17mm hold the carrier to the hub.

So if you've removed all 4 bolts, then nothing but friction is holding it in.
The pistons will be exerting pressure on the pads, which is gripping the disk.

A combination of brute force and gentle persuasion will get it off.
 
Ok... this is my first rear disk car... I forgot to let the hand brake off. Got the caliper off but it took the backing pad off the pad. The aim was to investigate brake judder/pulsing, by cleaning up the pads and caliper, and put some copper slip on the piston contact area. also used brake cleaner and cleaned the discs too. Did the front passenger side and back passenger side and ran out of time. Just ran it to work and it's much worse? Only thought is because the backing plate is gone. I do have new rear pads to go on but don't have the tool to depress the piston back in so just put the old ones hack in. any ideas anyone?
 
As a matter of utmost urgency, which ever pad came away from the plate, you need to change this imminently.

The pulsing/judder is probably a warped disc.
You'll not see this with the naked eye, but it's enough to cause judder, it may even be only one disc.
In my experience the front ones seem to be the first culprit.


Id suggest changing the pads asap, give them a day or two to bed in.
If this doesn't resolve the judder, start by changing the front discs.

Provided you do this within days of the new pads, you get way with using the same pads.
 
Cheers, I'll pop the new pads in tomoz, a friends dad has the tool for piston. Still learning new motor! I guess the wear on front disks is due to heavy front end as ui have read about front tyre wear too. Keep you posted peeps
 
I tried a g-clamp on our rears.
The pistons would not budge.

I did discover that the pistons don't actually require winding back in as such, they just need to be rotated slightly either clockwise or anti clockwise.
Exerting pressure with a g-clamp and then moving the piston slightly is enough to wind it back in. However, this method is cumbersome, as you then need to tighten the g-clamp and rotate the piston again, and again and again.

Worked a charm and a hell of a lot quicker with the rewind tool though.
 
All disk and pads now changed, pistons pushed back in easy( lucky me) cheers for the advise peeps.now fully familiar with brake system on my m jet.
 
A g clamp will not work it's a threaded piston. It needs to be pushed and turned. Especially if they're not fully healthy they have a habbit of seizing.

The thread has such a large pitch that it doesn't need much turning. Pushing the piston back in with any old clamp (so long as it doesn't prevent the rotation) has always worked for me; in fact I've often successfully used a bit of old wood as a lever. Remember to loosen the brake fluid cap and keep checking the level, if doing a disk and pad change you may need to bleed off a little fluid.
 
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