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<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Strut Top Bearing removal + Service / replacement  & Front Spring replacement<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
Strut Top Bearing removal + Service / replacement & Front Spring replacement
Published by Andy Monty
15-01-2011
Difficulty Level: 4

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Strut Top Bearing removal + Service / replacement & Front Spring replacement

First off this is a fairly complex task with the added hazard of having to remove the coil spring which is under a fair amount of tension so care should be taken.....



Tools needed

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2 jacks (ideally if not some blocks of wood will do in place of one jack)
Axle stand and wheel chocks
Small 3 leg puller
Release oil
Grease
Socket set (18mm 17mm 16mm and 6mm hex alan socket)
18mm deep recess Ring spanner
Pozi 2 screw driver
flat screwdriver
hammer/ mallet
Decent spring compressors
set of spanners
Side cutters
Breaker bar/s
a selection of spanners (a 17mm is going to be needed for the drop links) a 10mm to suit the safety clamps on my compressors


So park the car in a safe place on level firm solid ground set the handbrake set the car in gear at some point before jacking loosen wheel nuts on the wheel your working on and open the bonnet.....

first job is to remove the wiper arms...

unpick the plastic nut covers with the flat screw driver

undo the 13mm nut

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now a dirty windscreen is handy note where the wipers sit on the screen

fit puller and wind both arms off with the puller taking Great care not to hit the windscreen on the bottom edge or apply any pressure to it...
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Now remove the 3 screws that hold the scuttle panel down followed by the rubber seal
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and remove the plastic scuttle trim taking note how it sits with the little bits of trim at each bottom corner of the windscreen ...



now you can get at the turret nut soak it well in release oil and leave to soak for a bit......
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now take a 18mm ring spanner and a 6mm alan socket and wrench and loosen the nut off but do not remove completely just yet...
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(If your having trouble removing it or you round the 6mm hex off the only option is going to be an air impact wrench to remove/ loosen which is what i did in the end as they were very tight)


Now chock the wheels and safely jack the car up and remove the wheel fully and axle stand the car.....

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now remove the wheel......

as soon as your in spray the 1x top drop link bolt with penitrating oil along with the 2 hub to strut bolts and clean them up with a wire brush and soak again...
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whilst that does its job remove the cables from the strut clips ABS sensor (and pad wear indicator on the LHS wheel)
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next remove the brake hose carefully having removed the metal clip ((which will probably snap)) i refitted mine and retained it in place with a cable tie which is what the fiat dealer did to mine when they did the other side under warranty
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now remove the top drop link nut using a 17mm open ended spanner and a 16mm socket and pull clear to one side...

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now loosen the 18 mm nuts off the 2 hub/strut bolts and remove the nuts..

Tap with a hammer to begin to remove them...

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at this point chock up the wish bone so it can't drop and pull the drive shaft out i used another jack but you can use a pile of bricks or wood....
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now fully remove the 2 hub/ strut bolts...


at this point the strut should be swinging free in the arch a spare pair of hands can come in handy now to fully remove the top nut and guide the strut out of the arch taking care not to snag it on any cables or hit the body work



and your just about half way there now for a hazardous bit


before going any further read the instructions that came with your spring compressors keep any helpers at a safe distance and TAKE YOUR TIME its imperative that you compress the spring evenly and slowly be gentle and personally i would not use the cheaper spring compressors i have seen some been used where the threaded shaft have been bending badly were they to fail they could cause serious injury and possibly death should the spring suffer a sudden release of tension or the compressor fails.. If your not happy take your strut to a garage and smile sweetly and offer beer tokens for the next bit as most will have a hydraulic strut press which is much safer and faster than compressors


if not continue by fitting all three compressors evenly to the spring ensuring the safety retainers are tightened
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that they are equally spaced
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and are far enough apart to compress the spring
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before tightening look how the spring sits in the cup at its stop
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slowly tighten them a bit at a time until the spring feels loose between its bottom seat on the cup and the bearing on top


then remove the top nut the same as you removed the other using the ring spanner and 6mm alan key
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now remove the bearing assembly taking great care not to roughly handle or drop the compressed spring

this is the bit you have been trying to get at
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At this point you can drop a new upper bearing assembly on and put it all back together


Or if you have noticed it starting to stick early there is a chance it is salvageable as long as the balls are not rusty and the race is in good condition you can take it apart and clean and re grease it just take care not to loose the ball bearings out of the race


first remove the top rubber
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then split the race with a screw driver slowly working round it (do this over a tub as if all the grease has gone the balls will fall out and roll under any thing heavy and unmoveable in the garage



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pull the metal bearing race open and degrease and clean the bearing area and the balls themselves



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next use grease to stick the balls back in the carrier and put more over the top then reassemble

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next refit the bearing onto the spring ensuring the spring sits over it and check the spring is seated in the stop at the bottom and replace top nut

release the spring compressors evenly and slowly then remove them checking the spring is sat right in the strut against the bottom strut

then put back in arch and through the hole in the turret top




and refit nut loosely to hold it in place


next refit bolts using the torque settings in this guide:

http://www.fiatforum.com/grande-punt...ront-back.html



then refit the cables hoses and wheel and road test as per the above guide



hope this helps
Thanks AgnessGP, drof, idaho1, Thomas_Si, T14086 thanked for this post
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Old 26-01-2011   #1
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Re: Strut Top Bearing removal + Service / replacement

i have just noticed a clicking noise when low speed turning.

when the wheel is turned (static) the spring judders in its seats(cups)

if i hold the spring and twist i can move it (slightly)
poss snapped (just a tiny bit), or more likley a stuck top mount.

the car has just come back from service so i wonder with it being on beam ramp (while dropping oil) has it disturbed it at all
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Old 26-01-2011   #2
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Re: Strut Top Bearing removal + Service / replacement

17.02 pm back from the garage ,new near side front top mount fitted genuine part.
48 done.
happy chap
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Old 26-01-2011   #3
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Re: Strut Top Bearing removal + Service / replacement

Just done this myself following this guide.

The bearings were 17+vat each there abouts from the dealer and took 3 hours to do both sides of the car.

The only thing I can think I need doing as a result of this is get the tracking done, but so far have not noticed any problems with the steering pulling to either side at all.
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Old 27-01-2011   #4
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Re: Strut Top Bearing removal + Service / replacement

great guide
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Old 06-02-2011   #5
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Re: Strut Top Bearing removal + Service / replacement

Quote Originally Posted by Pedrolami View Post

The only thing I can think I need doing as a result of this is get the tracking done
why, no need? Best to change the top bearings as you did as they are cheap.
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Old 12-02-2011   #6
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Re: Strut Top Bearing removal + Service / replacement

Your timing couldn't have been better with this Andy, my front passenger spring snapped on Friday

Got to go buy a puller and some compressors now.

The joys of motoring...
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Old 13-02-2011   #7
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Re: Strut Top Bearing removal + Service / replacement

not a problem if you have access to a air impact wrench and an impact 18mm socket (odd ball size) it makes the job so much easier


really tempted to invest in something like this then im not restricted by the length of my air line





im not sure if anywhere hires them out Argos might

if not the 18mm crooked ring spanner is a must have you wont get it with a socket or a normal spanner

http://www.teng.co.uk/631819-teng-to...er_1652_pd.asp


and this is the set of pullers i have



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Quote Originally Posted by Most Easterly Pandas View Post
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Quote Originally Posted by EmmaM88 View Post
Just a little touch up

Last edited by Andy Monty; 13-02-2011 at 13:26.
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Old 20-02-2011   #8
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Re: Strut Top Bearing removal + Service / replacement

Spring changed relatively easily.

If you're doing the passenger side you can get away without removing the wipers and scuttle.

I eased it up behind the bonnet stay and put my hand down behind it.

Slightly awkward but time saving
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Old 31-03-2011   #9
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Re: Strut Top Bearing removal + Service / replacement

i am on many forum sites and this has been the most helpful to date .
This guide was spot on ,managed it in about 1.5 hours Cheers
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Old 01-01-2012   #10
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Re: Strut Top Bearing removal + Service / replacement

Useful guide Thanks
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Old 28-02-2012   #11
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Re: Strut Top Bearing removal + Service / replacement

This is a TOP guide mate thanks, I was confused about the Torque settings so i asked a engineer at my work about the Deca formula DaNm

Deca is to the power of 10 so 10.5 = 105nm etc 5.4 = 54Nm
hope this helps

thanks again for a great guide

Lance
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Last edited by fiddler69uk; 28-02-2012 at 23:45.
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Old 21-03-2012   #12
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Re: Strut Top Bearing removal + Service / replacement

Great guide, Had a broken front spring and wouldn't have even attempted replacing it before. Took the time to grease up top bearing as well.
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Old 30-04-2012   #13
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Re: Strut Top Bearing removal + Service / replacement

Superb giude Andy, I printed this off and used it tonight to replace both of mine. The car is spot on again thanks to the 3 hours it took me following this guide. Nice and simple with this guide.

I am glad I read it all first as I had to buy the 18mm spanner you mentioned, that was essential.
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Old 02-05-2012   #14
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Re: Strut Top Bearing removal + Service / replacement

Excellent guide, thanks.

Recently had both front springs snap within a few weeks of each other so this was very helpful in fitting the new springs/dampers.

Having seen how poor the original Fiat springs were I didn't want to fit the same ones again so ordered different springs and dampers as well as new top mounts etc. to make a complete new damper assembly for each side.

Took all the bits to local garage to have the springs fitted to the dampers and once they were fitted the guy there said he thought the angle the top mount was sitting on the damper didn't really look 100% right and therefore he wasn't sure if I might have the wrong springs. Of course without seeing the original ones (as they were still on the car) we couldn't be sure.

Anyways, I ended up ordering another make of springs just to be sure and after fitting they turned out to be identical to the first set, even though one was supposedly made by Sachs and the other by Killen.

So, for anyone else in the same situation, the top mounts are meant to sit at this strange angle and not straight as you'd expect:

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When I finally removed the original Fiat dampers to fit the new ones the top mounts were exactly the same, also sitting at an angle.
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