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General Cam belt replacement

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General Cam belt replacement

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Murray

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I have a 1998 2.0 tdi engine in my campervan and want to change the cam/timing belt, but cannot find a workshop manual anywhere. Has anyone any advice on locking points of cam shaft, fuel pump and crankshaft in order to accomplish the change. I have changed belts before on my former Renault Trafic campervan.
Murray
 
hi mate just got timing data sheet for my ducato 2.5 diesel 1995 ,the data sheet says it goes up to 2002 can email it to you if it will help. dueeboy
 
You can get downloadable manuals here http://www.workshopmanuals.co.uk/workshop_manuals/cars/fiat/fiat_ducato_workshop_manuals.htm
You'll need broadband ! You can find the discs on e.bay sometimes too.
For belt changing, I think you have to put a pin in a location in the crankshaft pulley after turning by hand to get it in the right place. The pulley on the cam should then line up with another location for a locking pin to keep everything in the right places while you swap belts. I'm not sure the fuel pump matters, it's not timed particularly.
 
Does anyone know what brand of cam belt is fitted by the factory?There's a lot of pro gates comments on the web but can contitech really be that bad?:confused:
 
I have just replaced the belt on my 2003 2,8 jtd. It was straigth forward job and did not involve any special tools. I bought a SKF kit for NOK 1600.-
(£ 120.-). I took me 6 hours but it was my first time and the next time I would use 2-3 hours. Most of the extra time was used finding a 36mm socket (I used 38mm) and to get my wife under the car to hold a screwdriver against the flywheel.
1.Remove covers.
2.Just place the crank and cam on the marks.
3.Remove multiV belt and the wheel.
4.Mark the belt and wheels with a pen I also marked the pump but it shuld not be needed on electronic injection.
5.Push back the tensioner and put a adustable wrench to hold it back.
6.Loosen the tension wheel andtake it of.
It will ot be possible to remove the cam belt cover unless you remove engine mounting, but you can replace belt and wheels in the space you get.
7.Put on new idler wheel.
8.Mark the new belt according to the old, to be absolute 100% you get it 100% correct.
9.Put it on, and fit the new tension wheel
10. put tension back on, and check the marks.
11.put back multiV wheel and the bilt on crank and turn 2 rew. an check marks on crank and cam.(marks on belt will not line up now, it was just for first installation) .
12. Turn 2 more rew. and fasten tension wheel.
13. Take a last control
14. Put everything back
15. Start it up.
DONT TRY THIS UNLESS YOU FEEL SAFE TO DO IT.
THE SECOND ATTEMPT IS VERY EXPENSIVE.
 
Hi Arild (or anyone who can answer).
I'm in the middle of the same timing belt replacement, and wonder about how to lock the flywheel. You mention screwdriver: I notice a hole in the bottom bell housing where I can use a screwdriver to lock the flywheel against a bolt on the flywheel and the bellhousing edge. Is this how you did it? I am a little bit wary as I don't want to chip the bellhousing or dent the bolt on the flywheel.
Best regards,
PapaD
 
Ok, I finally tried it, and it worked nicely: just stick a screwdriver into the bottom of the bellhouse to lock the flywheel.
best regards,
PapaD
 
arild said:
I have just replaced the belt on my 2003 2,8 jtd. It was straigth forward job and did not involve any special tools. I bought a SKF kit for NOK 1600.-
(£ 120.-). I took me 6 hours but it was my first time and the next time I would use 2-3 hours. Most of the extra time was used finding a 36mm socket (I used 38mm) and to get my wife under the car to hold a screwdriver against the flywheel.
1.Remove covers.
2.Just place the crank and cam on the marks.
3.Remove multiV belt and the wheel.
4.Mark the belt and wheels with a pen I also marked the pump but it shuld not be needed on electronic injection.
5.Push back the tensioner and put a adustable wrench to hold it back.
6.Loosen the tension wheel andtake it of.
It will ot be possible to remove the cam belt cover unless you remove engine mounting, but you can replace belt and wheels in the space you get.
7.Put on new idler wheel.
8.Mark the new belt according to the old, to be absolute 100% you get it 100% correct.
9.Put it on, and fit the new tension wheel
10. put tension back on, and check the marks.
11.put back multiV wheel and the bilt on crank and turn 2 rew. an check marks on crank and cam.(marks on belt will not line up now, it was just for first installation) .
12. Turn 2 more rew. and fasten tension wheel.
13. Take a last control
14. Put everything back
15. Start it up.
DONT TRY THIS UNLESS YOU FEEL SAFE TO DO IT.
THE SECOND ATTEMPT IS VERY EXPENSIVE.
Click to expand...
This is a great explanation and helped when I was changing the cam belt. I do have one concern; I had initially thought that the tensioning device would always exert a tensioning force onto the belt via the roller and compensate for the belt stretching and flexing. However it seems that what it actually does is set up the tension on the belt when it is first installed. I say this because when I tighten the tension roller central mounting bolt the roller is locked in this position an the tensioner has no further control. Is this correct or have I done something wrong?
Thanks.
 
This is a great explanation and helped when I was changing the cam belt. I do have one concern; I had initially thought that the tensioning device would always exert a tensioning force onto the belt via the roller and compensate for the belt stretching and flexing. However it seems that what it actually does is set up the tension on the belt when it is first installed. I say this because when I tighten the tension roller central mounting bolt the roller is locked in this position an the tensioner has no further control. Is this correct or have I done something wrong?
Thanks.
 
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