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Technical MultiEcuScan sorely trying my patience!

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Technical MultiEcuScan sorely trying my patience!

Ocwobio

Ocwobio

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Having broke the habit of a lifetime, I have coughed up good money for software to do a specific job. That being Multiecuscan v 3.5. I tried several of the free versions of this, on 4 different laptops; ALL gave varying degrees of connection problems. So I decided to buy and install the latest version on the copmputer that had the fewest issues, as I needed to connect to my Bosch ABS v5.3ASR, which the free one does not permit. Only to find I cannot get a connection to this module at all. I can sometimes connect to the engine ECU, but so unreliable.On a rare connection to the engine ecu. I did read error on d-can line U1601,,,!! wotisit? I'm very disappointed. I have had the VAG KKL adaptor configured every way possible, and the laptop port settings absolutely done to death :bang: to try and get this to work. Has anyone (who has not already replied) had success with this version of ABS and can get a reliable connection at will on their kit? Any ideas before I kick the whole outfit, vehicle and all, up and down the street from dawn til dusk! And yes, I know there is a support forum, I am a registered member, but it is almost dead, and the software designer is not so hot at replying to emails. Hence I am asking on here. What a carry on!
BTW, I have slightly earlier posts on here describing my problems. Cheers!
 
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Mine is CAN bus only but gendan supplied my interface and it's faultless, I know people have converted cheap ones with success but for the cost, and backup if needed MES can't be beaten from them.
 
Molmo,, mine ain't canbus, in thory it the simplest of interfaces. the kkl, no mystery with the hardware, and the softwar from gendan is the same as from yani at MES where I got mine from. As a learning curve,I think it's gone full circle!! ((Desperate groaning ))
 
Ocwobio said:
Molmo,, mine ain't canbus, in thory it the simplest of interfaces. the kkl, no mystery with the hardware, and the softwar from gendan is the same as from yani at MES where I got mine from. As a learning curve,I think it's gone full circle!! ((Desperate groaning ))
Click to expand...
Ocwobio

I take it your using the Green Adaptor cable along with the KKL lead ?

Reason I'm asking is you don't mention the Green Adaptor lead anywhere, only the KKL lead....
 
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Hi Zeewulf,, don't need the green adaptor as I can switch pin 1 etc with the 4 way swich on the interface. Has 3 of those settings for engine, airbag, and abs modules. easiest one to connect to has been the engine, but even that I can't do reliably now. Exasperated, I am!
 
Tried a different lead ?

Sounds as if it might be the lead seeing as you do get a connection now and again. If it was software then you wouldn't get a connection at all. Worse case it could be the ECU port, try cleaning it with contact cleaner (battery disconnected first) in case the pins are dirty and not making a good enough connection with the lead.
 
Ocwobio said:
Molmo,, mine ain't canbus, in thory it the simplest of interfaces. the kkl, no mystery with the hardware, and the softwar from gendan is the same as from yani at MES where I got mine from. As a learning curve,I think it's gone full circle!! ((Desperate groaning ))
Click to expand...

I think yani is a member on here, why not pm him for some help. If you cant contact him here go to the mes forum and try there, yani is usually very helpful to folks using his software.


Mike
 
Hi Taff,,, I emailed Yani and posted on his forum. I am not blaming the software, I should say here, for the record, lol. Why can't it all be plug and play. Zeewulf, the obd prot in the dash is spotless, the rest under the bonnet is fragmented with junctions all over from ecu's and so many connections and bad access too. I will pull the kkl lead apart tomorrow and see what is wrong, if anything. I think nothing is, as it connects when it feels like it. I can't use my elm327 as its not compatible. I don't even think its a driver issue as it sometimes will connect to the engine (but nowt else, bah!)
 
Firstly, I have a KKL cable, the one with the switch to change its configuration, but have never managed to get it to connect to anything successfully. It seems to be an ornament, but I have the ELM cables too, and these work fine.

Also, have a look at post 5 on this thread:
https://www.fiatforum.com/panda/352156-fiatecuscan.html
It is a sequence I discovered some time ago, and seems to work reliably. Doing it differently will often (mostly) refuse to connect.
 
Mutievuscan is tried and tested. KKL cables on the other hand are cheap Chinese ****e often using counterfeit ftdi chips and prolific chips, badly assembled and untested. ABS is pin 1 in the Ducato the switched cables generally connect pins 1,9,12,13 together via a crappy slide switch. If I was having connection issues I would start by rewiring the kkl to pin 1 only.
 
corcai said:
Mutievuscan is tried and tested. KKL cables on the other hand are cheap Chinese ****e often using counterfeit ftdi chips and prolific chips, badly assembled and untested. ABS is pin 1 in the Ducato the switched cables generally connect pins 1,9,12,13 together via a crappy slide switch. If I was having connection issues I would start by rewiring the kkl to pin 1 only.
Click to expand...

Yes, there was that thought in my mind about cables. I have 2 kkls, one switched and one not. They will both get their insides looked at today, the chip issue if present, I can do nowt about, save buy yet another. Still, I can put them in my pile of unused diagnostic junk, I may be able to submit it for a Turner prize, as they seem to go for old s~~~e!. Corcai, what laptop and port settings have you been using? I guess if the cables are the issue, then a reputable seller recommendation is what I need- I know about Gendan, just wondering if there is anywhere closer to home (Crewe, Cheshire)?

In fact, assuming I get a connection, what can I expect to find in the ABS ASR module, re fault codes, that's to say, can I turn them off and if fault is still there, they will re appear? As I am hoping that as the fault only came on when I changed the battery, I will clear them and that would be that. I had tried to start itmseveral times before I changed it, the old one got a proper leathering, and voltage drop/ not having sufficient to do correct self test etc. has hopefully caused it.I also now do not get an ASR light on key on.

BUT would this not self test and clear but leave record in ECU? The 2 lights indicate, EDB (brake balance F/R) according to eLearn. My ASR switch is now inactive, I have checked fuses F04, F36,37, 42, and lots of others, (some of the higher numbers there I don't recall precisely, but got them from eLearn diagrams).

The saga continues (and may end in the alehouse.............):p
 
Ocwobio said:
Yes, there was that thought in my mind about cables. I have 2 kkls, one switched and one not. They will both get their insides looked at today, the chip issue if present, I can do nowt about, save buy yet another. Still, I can put them in my pile of unused diagnostic junk, I may be able to submit it for a Turner prize, as they seem to go for old s~~~e!. Corcai, what laptop and port settings have you been using? I guess if the cables are the issue, then a reputable seller recommendation is what I need- I know about Gendan, just wondering if there is anywhere closer to home (Crewe, Cheshire)?

In fact, assuming I get a connection, what can I expect to find in the ABS ASR module, re fault codes, that's to say, can I turn them off and if fault is still there, they will re appear? As I am hoping that as the fault only came on when I changed the battery, I will clear them and that would be that. I had tried to start itmseveral times before I changed it, the old one got a proper leathering, and voltage drop/ not having sufficient to do correct self test etc. has hopefully caused it.I also now do not get an ASR light on key on.

BUT would this not self test and clear but leave record in ECU? The 2 lights indicate, EDB (brake balance F/R) according to eLearn. My ASR switch is now inactive, I have checked fuses F04, F36,37, 42, and lots of others, (some of the higher numbers there I don't recall precisely, but got them from eLearn diagrams).

The saga continues (and may end in the alehouse.............):p
Click to expand...

Once into the 5.3 ASR you can do the following with MES:

Info = ECU code, Software version & Hardware version.
Errors = Displays errors and gives ability to clear them.
Parameters = You can check different parts of the ABS.
Actuators = You can test different parts of the ABS system.

To be honest I'd stick with Gendan as they are the official supplier for MES in the uk. So easier to work with if you have any hardware problems.
 
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If you have an unswitched KKL unsolder the wire from pin 7 and solder it to pin 1.

Check what driver your cable is using in device manager.
 
corcai said:
If you have an unswitched KKL unsolder the wire from pin 7 and solder it to pin 1.

Check what driver your cable is using in device manager.
Click to expand...
Heyup,, just changed the driver from the fdti downloaded one back to the one that came with the cable, will try it all monday or tuesday. Is it definitely pin 7 I want for the abs, resolder to p1? The switch on the adjustable cable says pins 1/9 for abs- I had a look inside and pins 1 and 9 are in fact connected and have continuity. If it is p7, that would explain a lot! Cheers.
 
Ocwobio said:
Heyup,, just changed the driver from the fdti downloaded one back to the one that came with the cable, will try it all monday or tuesday.
Click to expand...
Installing the ftdi driver could well be your issue:
http://hackaday.com/2016/02/01/ftdi-drivers-break-fake-chips-again/
Try the solution recommended here:
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/microcontrollers/ftdi-gate-2-0/msg854401/#msg854401
Driver 2.08.30 is here:
http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/CDM/CDM 2.08.30 WHQL Certified.zip

Ocwobio said:
Is it definitely pin 7 I want for the abs, resolder to p1?
Click to expand...

No. I said on your unswitched kkl cable remove the wire from pin 7 (ECU) and solder it to pin 1 for ABS.
 
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Looking at the Gendan site confirms what I had understood previously.
The earlier cars, pre-CAN, use the KKL interface, and CAN vehicles use the ELM or similar interface.
Gendan offer some expensive kits of cables.

I have previously used Scantool direct. They sell just cables, if that is what you need.
ELM interface: http://www.scantool-direct.co.uk/multiecuscan-elm-compatible-interface-25-p.html
Adaptor cables set:http://www.scantool-direct.co.uk/multiecuscan-four-colour-adapter-lead-set.html

Before buying, check the MultiECUscan website for the recommended interfaces for your vehicle. The above cables are available cheaper on Ebay, but ensure any ELM is described as compatible with Fiat, as many aren't. The MES website describes why.
 
portland_bill said:
Looking at the Gendan site confirms what I had understood previously.
The earlier cars, pre-CAN, use the KKL interface, and CAN vehicles use the ELM or similar interface.
Click to expand...

OPs vehicle is a 244 2.8jtd - ABS 5.3 is K line as is the siemens airbag. Engine ecu you can do with elm or K line.
 
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Corcai,, got you now. I will check out connections via the switch and if they don't give the result I want, I will hardwire t'other one. I have had the same amount of connection problems with either driver installed (not both at the same time!). The unmodified lead was used reliably on a 99 audi cabrio, so is a known quantity at least (with vagom lite). BTW, is the front rhs abs sensor plug anywhere near the battery, in the engine bay, I can't see it? Do you know if a disconnect there would disable the asr, as the switch is rendered inoperative now, and eLearn does not help with fuse or relay locations to check- I did the abs ones so unless they cover the asr as well, i am stumped. Cheers guys!
 
Further thoughts- looking thru the handbook, at the fuse listings, there are some cryptic designations there, for instance,,,

engine bay fuse box-

F20 'PCT' 20amp

E.I. primary & secondary services, various ratings.

E.I. system

PTC F20, 30 amp.
( Incidentally I have checked F04 50 amp and it's OK).

Battery teminal (+) fuse plate

CVm protection.

LH dash fusebox.

ABI F35, 7.5 amp.

What are these for? Any ideas?
Fusebox CFO (RH dash side) seems to be all option fuses, but the box is well populated on mine. At a later stage, I will be looking for a spare low current ignition switched supply for a dash USB socket and and 5v dropper for the reversing monutor too, so that may be a happy hunting ground?

Many thanks to all who have replied, pardon my ignorance, and keep 'em coming,, cheers'n'beers!:worship:
 
Ocwobio said:
Heyup,, just changed the driver from the fdti downloaded one back to the one that came with the cable, will try it all monday or tuesday. Is it definitely pin 7 I want for the abs, resolder to p1? The switch on the adjustable cable says pins 1/9 for abs- I had a look inside and pins 1 and 9 are in fact connected and have continuity. If it is p7, that would explain a lot! Cheers.
Click to expand...

Hi,
The "proper" MES adaptor 1 connects pin 7 on the adaptor to pins 1,7,9 &12 on the Vehicle. For just the ABS I suggest as Heyup says, move the wire in your lead from pin 1 to pin 7 to start with. Leave off pins 7.9 &12 in case they are picking up interference.


Don't rule out an issue on your vehicle, if possible try the lead and software on anther van.


Robert G8RPI.
 
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