Northern Auto Tech - ECU and Blue & Me Repairs

General LUK Clutch

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General LUK Clutch

Cool, something that you might be interested in, I just picked one up for the van, Reich caravan weight control extra, weighs each wheel (up to 1500kg per wheel)
With a full tank, all me bits n bobs, me, I can carry 1223kg [emoji106]?
 
Been running around now and put another 3k miles on this clutch No slipping now underload still get the Judder but its intermittent but now as developed a noise when in neutral bit like a rumbling never had this noise before but if you depress the clutch it goes quiet its a lot louder when you first start up in the morning
If you realise the clutch pedal slowly you can get the noise to go

I'm i right in thinking that this sounds like a faulty throw out bearing

Anyways back to the garage :bang:
 
Sounds like this is a problem from when fitted , badly fitted or contaminated plate or cover , noise sounds like thrust bearing. I would have the box out and investigate. Don't wait till it fails.
 
Well eventually got it booked back in the garage it was supposed to be in before xmas but a front calliper seized whilst out delivering and i missed my slot and they couldn't fit me in until the new year they have had it since Tuesday just waiting for a phone call for the report this afternoon
 
Well just got the call the clutch is completely destroyed and the main gearbox shaft and bearing is worn i have never thrashed it or rode the clutch they are blaming it on having the van remapped from 120 to 140 and not being able to cope with extra bhp/torque which seems unlikely to me i have spoken to the company that did the map they have said it would be impossible that this as caused the failure
Not sure yet if they are going to cover the work on warranty but as soon as i get it back i will get the map removed :slayer:
 
Picked the Ducato this morning the springs in the clutch plate had failed which was causing the judder and rumbling noise and the main shaft was badly worn in the first gear location causing the first gear throwout due to first gear wobbling on the main shaft.....i'm a bit miffed as this was all reconditioned and new clutch in June last year this is the 4th time the box as been out since then so hopefully the last.....
 
PC Vehicle Movements said:
Picked the Ducato this morning the springs in the clutch plate had failed which was causing the judder and rumbling noise and the main shaft was badly worn in the first gear location causing the first gear throwout due to first gear wobbling on the main shaft.....i'm a bit miffed as this was all reconditioned and new clutch in June last year this is the 4th time the box as been out since then so hopefully the last.....
Click to expand...

Get rid of that remap and get a real one done on a fully braked rolling road. Max transferrable torque for the stock clutch is 350nm who knows what they've done in the map.
 
Almost any make of replacement clutch will be fine even cheapo Chinese, and will not slip even with your 140hp although, that was not a very wise change. The problem must have been with the job itself, what was changed or not changed and how much care was taken changing things. After 200,000 a new flywheel correctly fitted is required and complete clutch friction and pressure plate and throwout bearing with fluid changed and seals in master cylinder and slave cylinder if fitted. If all that was done and gearbox not overfilled and first motion shaft splines only very sparingly greased then you will have had no problems. So something wasn't done to spec.
 
biggest problem the ducato clutch has is the size of the torsional springs they are too large if 6 smaller springs were used the problem of shudering wouldnt occur as the springs will eventually break free when that happens you can see the evidence of the rattling and wear ive gone to a borg and beck clutch with smaller springs for that reason its a bit harsher on take off but thats about it
 
Well done 2000 miles this week with a good run through mid wales fully loaded the new clutch is perfect night and day between the last one....Re Map as been removed its 2mpg down its averaged 38.9 this week and only really noticeable on long climbs and overtakes when loaded

So fingers crossed this will last me until i get a new one
 
hi all borg & beck do aftermarket clutch replacements with solid flywheel lasts 9 times longer & no reverse judder same price
 
Remaps can show MPG improvement on the on board display that just isnt there in reality. The map increases fuel pressure, the algorithm used to calculate fuel flow assumes the fuel pressure is the same, and using throttle pot and injector firing / revs, and calculates a lower fuel use. On cruise with more fuel pressure going in and more power for the same revs, you generally have lower throttle setting, so it thinks it is using less fuel.
I'm not against remaps, but everyone on every diesel car I have had (all of them bar for the van!) has used more fuel not less, generally as it is driven a bit harder. But on crusie on longer runs the fuel computer says 10% more economy, but you still end up at the garage sticking the same amount of fuel in! Don't trust the fuel computer after a remap!!
 
simch said:
Remaps can show MPG improvement on the on board display that just isnt there in reality. The map increases fuel pressure, the algorithm used to calculate fuel flow assumes the fuel pressure is the same, and using throttle pot and injector firing / revs, and calculates a lower fuel use. On cruise with more fuel pressure going in and more power for the same revs, you generally have lower throttle setting, so it thinks it is using less fuel.
I'm not against remaps, but everyone on every diesel car I have had (all of them bar for the van!) has used more fuel not less, generally as it is driven a bit harder. But on crusie on longer runs the fuel computer says 10% more economy, but you still end up at the garage sticking the same amount of fuel in! Don't trust the fuel computer after a remap!!
Click to expand...

A ****e remap might only increase the pressure. A proper remap will alter injection timing, durations, egr etc. and can improve mpg at the cost of pumping out crap loads of NOx.
 
corcai said:
A ****e remap might only increase the pressure. A proper remap will alter injection timing, durations, egr etc. and can improve mpg at the cost of pumping out crap loads of NOx.
Click to expand...

I didn't say they "only" increased fuel pressure, but all of them do do that! And hence the apparent MPG increase everyone sees on their display is automatically altered for the better by doing that. Non of the fuel computers have flow meters on them, it's all by calculation from the algorithms the are programmed with.

Very few if any diesel remaps actually increase boost pressure, petrol ones, yes.
In my experience with many diesel remaps on many marques, (all good ones, reputable firms), none of them have made MPG top of tank to top af tank any better, not much worse, but certainly not the claimed MPG increases. The fuel computer does show that, but it is tricked by the map.

Drives much better with them, of course.
 
The vehicle manufacturer spends a lot of time achieving a compromise between power, driveability, economy and meeting emissions laws. Remap companies spend a lot less, altering some parameters. This may gain in some areas, but will almost certainly lose in others. If it were that simple, the manufacturer would have done it that way. Sometimes the manufacturer does know best. (Even if they lie about the results)

Same argument goes for suspension too. A simple lowering kit will not make everything better. But that'll be another thread.
 
syldale said:
hi all borg & beck do aftermarket clutch replacements with solid flywheel lasts 9 times longer & no reverse judder same price
Click to expand...
My 2010 2.3 multijet is getting ready for a replacement clutch (148000 miles), so are you saying a B&B clutch will cure the clutch judder?
My van has the Iveco engine block, so has (I'm assured) a solid flywheel already.
If the B&B clutch does as you say, I'll pay the premium as I intend to keep the van......
 
windyjools said:
My 2010 2.3 multijet is getting ready for a replacement clutch (148000 miles), so are you saying a B&B clutch will cure the clutch judder?
My van has the Iveco engine block, so has (I'm assured) a solid flywheel already.
If the B&B clutch does as you say, I'll pay the premium as I intend to keep the van......
Click to expand...
hi . as far as i know all multijets have dmf flywheels ( watch you tube you will see what crap they are ) thats why i am changing to a solid fly wheel . don't know if they do a solid fly wheel replacement for yours any way looking at your mileage i would stick to what you have as mine has only done 27,000 miles & started slipping at 23,000 miles with clutch judder & i treat my clutch as if it was made out of glass so it just shows you what a bag of shyt dmf clutches are . the first multi jet was fitted with a reverse gear to high & coupled with the dmf that's where you get the judder
 
portland_bill said:
The vehicle manufacturer spends a lot of time achieving a compromise between power, driveability, economy and meeting emissions laws. Remap companies spend a lot less, altering some parameters. This may gain in some areas, but will almost certainly lose in others. If it were that simple, the manufacturer would have done it that way. Sometimes the manufacturer does know best. (Even if they lie about the results)

Same argument goes for suspension too. A simple lowering kit will not make everything better. But that'll be another thread.
Click to expand...
hi . fiat have just done that with the new 3L 160bhp from to 180bhp now so they have changed the parameters it is the same with the 130 now 150 bhp & so on with 120 they have beefed them up the same CC but more bhp
 
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