Technical 2004 2.0jtd Died after cam belt change.But belt is ok.

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Technical 2004 2.0jtd Died after cam belt change.But belt is ok.

wanderer

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This weekend I changed my cam belt and water pump.It wasn't the first time i had done the cam belt and i had no problems after the first change.Took it on a short test drive and all was ok. Today went a bit further (about 2km)and there's a banging sound from the engine but it's still running,thought i might have broken something on the exhaust while raising and lowering the engine so tried to get home to check. Didn't make it, engine clattered and died.Got recovered home and checked timing belt, it's fine and the timing too.The engine turns over and almost runs but thumps to a halt.
So thought OK I'll look to see if there are any fault codes before i start disassembling the engine to look for broken things.No response from ECU.I did connect to it the day before when the engine was running.
So my first question is could the ECU or a sensor failure cause what sounded like the innards of the engine disintegrating?
The second question is should i start at the top or the bottom of the engine to look for breakages?
 
If the timing was out you could have bent the valves, but usually it won't run when it's that far out.
 
I'd check the timing again, so make sure it hasn't jumped a tooth.
Is there a cam sensor on these, and is it still in the right place?
 
Been running through what could happen all night and wonder if it is worth trying to fix this in my garden in the middle of Sweden.If the valves are bent could i actually manage to replace them or would i be forced to get a rebuilt head and then be stopped dead if i could not get the injectors out of the old one.I think if it were just a van it could be considered uneconomical to repair but as it is a motor caravan it seems to be more valued.
It has no value in Sweden as it is UK registered and can't be registered here because of no type approval etc. Don't want to spend thousands fixing it just to get it back to UK.
May put it on Ebay in case there's a better mechanic who wants to come and stay in it while he or she repairs it and then takes it away.
 
You can replace the valves with the right tool, hardest part is removing the stem seals (if you decide to replace these, which is normally good practice) form the valve guides without doing any damage. You might have to get the head skimmed when you've stripped it and may be need a larger gasket, But wit diesels, I usually find if the head's cold you can get away without skimming the head.
 
Valve spring compressor.
 

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Hi. I wouldn’t start stripping the engine just yet; when you say no response from the ECU on the code reader does it not connect to the ECU, have you got the ignition turned on?

When you jacked the engine make sure you didn’t break the engine earth strap and check carefully all electrical connections especially the ECU plug and the ECU earth.

If the timing is still O.K I don’t see why the valves would be damaged unless by coincidence you have dropped a valve, not very likely and you would hear it popping when you turned it over it would probably still start on three cylinders anyway.

If the ECU or cam/crank sensor is faulty or loose connection you can sometimes get a banging type sound.



 
Don't know on this engine, but the cam sensor is usually in there somewhere under the cover.

Earth strap is a good idea as well, there must be something stopping the ecu communicating.
 
ECU started responding now that i have calmed down a bit.No fault codes though.
Upon reflection and having turned the engine over by hand to check the belt I think i have carelessly just topped up the coolant and not made sure all the air was out of the system and so partially seized one or more of the pistons.Bought an old car yesterday so the pressure is off and i can spend some time investigating my options.Doing my sums it's been interesting to see how much NOT running a motor caravan can save! Thanks for the suggestions.
 
Yes i did replace the water pump all parts SKF.Today I'm on the net checking out the Swedish motor rebuilding services.It's funny all the sites I've looked at in UK and SWE seem similar, it's like they are all just conduits to the same place,just like whoever i order tyres from on the net if i follow the tracking they always start from the same town in Germany.
 
I've overheated (not terminally) a car after replacing the coolant.
Normally it smells very badly of hot oil even if you catch it in time.
I would guess you opened the bonnet when you got home, did it smell hot?
 
As Mikey 72 said you would smell a cooked engine, 2k doesn’t seem far to seize a diesel engine if it had some coolant in it, I think the JTD has a temperature warning light also.

EGR valve is a very common fault on the JTD takes about 20 minutes to blank it and cost nothing might be worth a go, when they jam up you get a severe loss of power and a sort of backfire type noise then it dies sometimes it will restart but not always.

 
Worth doing a compression test, or at least getting the cam cover off being any major work, and bar the engine over and see what the valves are doing.
 
Just a thought. I recently purchase an 05 ducato burstner motorhome. Picked it up but got engine warning light, started to bang and then wouldn't start when pulled over. Turned out that cambelt had just been changed and top speed sensor was left loose and broke. Sensor replaced and that fault sorted.
 
This weekend I changed my cam belt and water pump.It wasn't the first time i had done the cam belt and i had no problems after the first change.Took it on a short test drive and all was ok. Today went a bit further (about 2km)and there's a banging sound from the engine but it's still running,thought i might have broken something on the exhaust while raising and lowering the engine so tried to get home to check. Didn't make it, engine clattered and died.Got recovered home and checked timing belt, it's fine and the timing too.The engine turns over and almost runs but thumps to a halt.
So thought OK I'll look to see if there are any fault codes before i start disassembling the engine to look for broken things.No response from ECU.I did connect to it the day before when the engine was running.
So my first question is could the ECU or a sensor failure cause what sounded like the innards of the engine disintegrating?
The second question is should i start at the top or the bottom of the engine to look for breakages?
Hi not sure if yr still on this site, but have exactly the same problems.to the letter. What was the fix. Thanks. Frank.
 
Hi not sure if yr still on this site, but have exactly the same problems.to the letter. What was the fix. Thanks. Frank.
First I would check to see if you can turn the engine over by hand at least two full revolutions (with key out) then double check timing is correct and tensioner correctly tightened if there is any uncertainty regarding this.
Hopefully it is not a cambelt timing issue!!!
Not wanting to be the bearer of bad news, but in the past I have worked on several SOFIM 2.5 and 2.8 engines used in Ducato, Iveco Daily, Renaults and Citroen where the belt has failed and on removing the cylinder head to check damaged valves have found instead of two pistons up and two down as normal, one is a at a lower position due to a bent conrod.It may be only a couple of mm, but the engine will never run sweet if it is that. This is as well as the bent valves!
This is quite common on modern diesels due to close tolerances.
It is possible to change the damaged con rods but you are looking at a major rebuild, so fingers crossed it is not this.
 
First I would check to see if you can turn the engine over by hand at least two full revolutions (with key out) then double check timing is correct and tensioner correctly tightened if there is any uncertainty regarding this.
Hopefully it is not a cambelt timing issue!!!
Not wanting to be the bearer of bad news, but in the past I have worked on several SOFIM 2.5 and 2.8 engines used in Ducato, Iveco Daily, Renaults and Citroen where the belt has failed and on removing the cylinder head to check damaged valves have found instead of two pistons up and two down as normal, one is a at a lower position due to a bent conrod.It may be only a couple of mm, but the engine will never run sweet if it is that. This is as well as the bent valves!
This is quite common on modern diesels due to close tolerances.
It is possible to change the damaged con rods but you are looking at a major rebuild, so fingers crossed it is not this.
Hi thanks for getting back so quickly. Belts a water pump changed yesterday. All checked by another mechanic. Seams like no fuel getting in. No fault codes. But same symptoms as read. Noisy engine then stopped won't run. Turns over by hand with out lumps like valves hitting. Will change the crank sensor but don't think it's that. Any other ideas.
 
Hi thanks for getting back so quickly. Belts a water pump changed yesterday. All checked by another mechanic. Seams like no fuel getting in. No fault codes. But same symptoms as read. Noisy engine then stopped won't run. Turns over by hand with out lumps like valves hitting. Will change the crank sensor but don't think it's that. Any other ideas.
Suggest give full details, plus model, age, engine, etc. history behind fault then someone here may be able to guide you.
Regarding the cambelt side, you are happy timing correct and on turning engine by hand no metal contact and four full compressions as pistons come up on firing stroke i.e. so engine is mechanical strong before looking for any other issues.
BTW no water etc. in fuel?
 
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