Technical Fiat Ducato 2.0 JTD 11 SWB engine cuts out

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Technical Fiat Ducato 2.0 JTD 11 SWB engine cuts out

mwooly10

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Hi everyone, New here so be gentle :) I'll try and put as much info as i can, so sorry if its a bit long winded.

I have a Fiat Ducato 2.0 JTD 11 SWB, which is an 06 model.

A few weeks ago the alternator cable broke (the small thin one), and it made a clicking noise and then the engine cut off. I fixed the cable and it still did it again, it did this a few times until i finally got it going again.

It has been doing it on and off over the last few weeks. took it to my garage and they tested the battery and it seemed fine, although the battery lead was loose, so i secure that on. and carried on using it. but whenever i put my foot on the accelerator too much the engine light would come on and it would start clicking and either cut out completely or go into limp home mode.

so the other day i changed the alternator and it still did it, so i pulled the 3 fuel lines off in the middle of the engine and it sounded like there was air coming in or going out, and after that it seemed fine, i was even able to go on the motorway and get speed normally.

Then today going to work it was fine (about 30 miles) and i left it sat outside the office for about an hour, got into it and set off and it did it again, this time going into limp home mode. turned it off and started it again, gave it a bit of a rev and cloudy white smoke came out of the exhaust smelling of unburnt diesel. So undid the fuel lines again, and fully loaded it seemed ok again, dropped a couple of jobs off and it drove me home again no problems.

I hoping someone knows, or has an idea of what the problem is. I seem to know when its coming as it goes sluggish like its feel blocked or something is holding it back, so i put my foot down a little and click click :(

I think ive put everything down and put enough info for people to have some idea of what im talking about. If anyone needs anymore info just ask and i'll do my best to answer..

Many Thanks
Mike
 
forgot to add, its just had a full service including fuel filter, and before the cable broke it ran fine with no problems at all.
 
i had this, turned out to be a collasped catalic converter in the exhaust, blocking the system. spenty £1900 changing everything from fuel pump to injectors, fuel lines, you name it we did it. ended up with a new exhaust, problem sorted.
 
Thanks for the replies :)

Could be, it is very rusty,old looking due to the miles and could probably do with being changed. Although it has just gone almost a week without even doing it, So just going to see how it goes over the next week or so.
 
Well the last week has been a nightmare especially today, cut out on me too many times to remember. Even getting me a flat battery trying to start it again :(

Well im going to try and get the codes tomorrow, as it doesnt drive very far now without cutting out, engine management light comes on, cuts out..

Was wondering if someone could give me a lesson lol

As someone said it could be the catalic converter. What i want to know is how would something like that make the EML come on and cut the fuel off??

Also the tapping/clicking noise i get (i can feel it slightly through the clutch pedal) How would that be from the catalic converter?

Many thanks if you learn me a thing or 2 :)
 
Well got it hooked up and it was like a shopping list lol Mass air sensor, all the injectors and a few other bits.. So he reset the ECU and tried it again and it came up straight away with just one thing.. The Mass Air sensor, so im hoping that is the problem..
 
Well i think i'll just look for another van.. Changed the Mass air sensor and he said the ECU will reset itself (i wasnt so sure i think it was too cold for him to be arsed testing it again, like he said he would do yesterday)

Anyway changed and still runs the same, so either thats not the problem or the ECU hasnt reset itself :(

Maybe im just doomed, my hire van today was a merc 313 (thirsty little bugger) got have way down south EML came on and the turbo went lol did that most of the morning ..
 
Well i think i'll just look for another van.. Changed the Mass air sensor and he said the ECU will reset itself (i wasnt so sure i think it was too cold for him to be arsed testing it again, like he said he would do yesterday)

Anyway changed and still runs the same, so either thats not the problem or the ECU hasnt reset itself :(

Maybe im just doomed, my hire van today was a merc 313 (thirsty little bugger) got have way down south EML came on and the turbo went lol did that most of the morning ..

Friend has a merc 313 thats had everything changed over the years. He's been trying to trade it in lately and the salesmen just run when they see him pull in :D

The timing belt isn't loose / skipped a tooth is it? Did you check the earth cable on the engine a bad earth could cause it to cut out.

The ecu should relearn from the new maf as you drive, I would check the egr valve is operating correctly if it was stuck open you'd have all sort of problems, the ecu can generate all sorts of codes for a stuck egr, maf is one. Wouldn't usually expect it to cut out completely though but maybe with high enough throttle it would be choked.

Another cheap thing to try is to invest in a kkl cable on ebay for a tenner then and install the demo version of fiat ecu scan on a laptop beg borrow or steal one if you don't have it. Then you can check and clear the dtcs yourself. You can also monitor sensors etc. if you can get it to cut out consistently then monitoring the sensors may give you an idea of whats happening immediately before it cuts out.

I wonder did the broken wire cause the alternator to spike.
 
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Thanks for the reply

I checked the earth may check again though..

The EGR valve is fairly new as the old one snapped in half but again i'll have a look.. I thought it was the alternator to begin with so thats new also..

May try and get hold of the kit your said about as i like these vans so i might get another as i need a bigger one really and after doing 280,000 miles i think it just may of had its day :D

Possibly could be the timing belt, cant remember the last time i had that looked at if ever
 
Well just been out for a drive and since the new MAS yesterday it is really choky when started from cold when idle i can rev to my heart content and its sounds ok but soon as i have it gear and want to drive i have to give it some pedal which either clears it or makes it click and smoke, sometimes cuts out and sometimes doesnt.

if it was the timing belt wouldnt it be choky when not driving too?

I did just pop the bonnet for a mo (its too cold lol) and i could hear like a vibrating noise coming from the top of the engine (under the black plastic cover near where the heat matrix pipe go) or would that just be with the heater being on?
 
Don't you just love vans lol

Went outside and fiddled/looked over the pipes and connectors in the engine making sure nothing was loose, took a few off and put them back on. Whilst it was running half undid the injector plugs so it judder then pushed it back on before it cut out.

then tried a pipe next to injector plug 1(one on the left) and i must of moved the plug and it cut out, i started it again and moved the plug and it cut out again, so took it off twisted the wires so it fitted more tighter (i can move it now without it cutting out) went for a drive up and down the motorway seemed ok no EM lights or cutting out.

Took it back to have it plugged in and all the codes from the other day came up again, so got him to reset the ECU. then took it out for another 40 min drive up and down the motorway, the engine clicked once accelerating from a roundabout, but that was it. took it back and plugged it back in again, YAY no codes showing.

Still runs a bit jerky/choky when setting off but not too bad that you cant set off.

Just hoping that it was a faulty injector plug that was causing all the problems.

Even if the EM light didnt come on, would the ECU still register a fault code?
 
Well mines an 06 but i will keep an eye on it..

Main thing is (touch wood) it has saved me having to panic buy a van and i can just carry on looking til i find something i like.

Well seems to run ok, apart from running rough especially in 1st,2nd and 3rd until around 2/3000 revs and then it kicks in.

Not cutting out though so far, and the clicking has only been once so far.. Off out for a good 60 miles trip shortly mostly motorway so i'll see how it goes, especially when the engine has warmed up see if it runs a little better after a gear change..
 
Ok well having given the van a good drive out a couple of times.

I could hear a small air leak so had all the air filter housing and MAF and pipes off and refitted them like the garage should of done yesterday..

When cold and warm it runs rough and sort of judders when changing through the lower gears. Now when i get out and unplug the injector plugs and wiggle the wires it will runs nice and normal again for a short distance. Then obviously with the engine vibrating they probably move again, and it goes back to being crappy.

So im assuming the wiring loom is faulty and not the injector.

Just a couple of things,

Do i have to change the whole loom?
and
Is it easy enough to do?
 
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Thanks Charlie :)

I don't get the light but can go better when wiggled well least it did :D

But still didnt answer my question of is it easy enough to change the loom or should i get a garage to do it? Ive traced all the wires bar 1 i think, the one that runs under the air filter housing.
 
Well it was still running poorly and not much power til you gave it some throttle. So had another look and didn't notice this yesterday but on the plastic sheath on the wire on injector 4 has burnt/perished away so you could see the actually wire.

So for now ive just put a bit of sparks tape on it just to keep it covered. not ran it yet, but i think theres lies the problem.

thanks all for your advice :)
 
well still runs rough in the lower gears..

Does anyone know if i can cut and crimp the broken wire back together?

As i did notice a couple of the copper wires were broken before i taped it up..
 
Hi, this is second-hand info as I've not had to repair mine (yet!) but I remember reading a post where the repair was done by buying an injector plug complete with a length of cable and this was spliced into the original loom.

Sorry I can't link to it but I believe the work was done by a diesel specialist who soldered and insulated the cable joints
 
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