Ok well i'll get back to you with the dtc's when i have that then

Mwooly, sorry to hijack your thread, but I saw in an earlier post that you changed your crankshaft sensor, but it was not in the place expected, could you explain where abouts it is please?

I havent changed it yet. I think you may have to do it from underneath it maybe easier.

If you take out the air filter housing, and then follow the rest of the air pipe going down behind the engine, there is a bracket on the side of the engine and it is behind that. I could just about get in to unplug it and replug it in. But im not sure you'll beable to get in enough to change it. as you cant see what your doing.

Hope this helps

Only noticed today but i think i drove round all weekend with the MAF sensor unplugged, so plugged it back in and its even worse than it was over the weekend

mwooly10 said:

Only noticed today but i think i drove round all weekend with the MAF sensor unplugged, so plugged it back in and its even worse than it was over the weekend

Click to expand...

hi again,
does this help explain your .... MAF = 0%

reading from your diagnostic run the other day..??

charlie

varesecrazy said:

hi again,
does this help explain your .... MAF = 0%

reading from your diagnostic run the other day..??

charlie

Click to expand...

Its would be zero anyway, most of the reading come back as either 0 or 255 - all low 00000000 all high 11111111 in binary because its not standard obd.

Load_PCT 100%, MAP 255, IAT 215, ETC 215 is all the same reading - 255 is translated to 215C in temps as the range is from -40 to 215.

moodrater said:

Its would be zero anyway, most of the reading come back as either 0 or 255 - all low 00000000 all high 11111111 in binary because its not standard obd.

Click to expand...

Not sure cant remember, but as Mood said it doesnt give me proper readings anyway.. Well my lead has just turned up but as ive been driving since half 1 this morning i need a quick snooze

Will set the netbook up later and post up what it says

Right ok. Well couldnt get the DTC's yet didnt know i needed drivers for the cable, so will get those shortly.

I have found 3 codes though

P0704 - Clutch Signal - Invalid Signal

P1555 - Accelerator/Brake Coherency - Signal Low

P0235 - Supercharging Pressure

Anyone any ideas on what i need to change?

Well i have installed the drivers for the lead and set it on the right com port. I plug it into the ECU slot and the light on the lead comes on, but when i go to try and connect to the ECU it fails and says check cable on ports settings

Although it will connect when i press the simulate button.

Confused, you read codes then installed the driver?

Anyway brake/clutch switches out of adjustment or switch and wiring problem so the ecu thinks your braking when your accellerating etc.

Map sensor is probably covered in crap due filthy intake due to egr and or pcv. Read the map pressur with ignition on and engine off.

no i installed everything then read the codes.. but it was in simulate mode, which ive just read isnt a true reading, unless i read wrong.

But when i go to connect it wont read/connect with the ECU. but i think i might not have .NET framework on my netbook, just downloading it now so will have another try in a mo. as when i do a scan it comes up with nothing either

Did you set the latency for the com port like it says in the manual ..

What baud rate, stop bits etc. are set? Oh and I assume you have the ignition on!?

moodrater said:

Did you set the latency for the com port like it says in the manual ..

What baud rate, stop bits etc. are set? Oh and I assume you have the ignition on!?

Click to expand...

No dont remember seeing that bit about the latency.. will have another look

Yeah i had it running. lost me on baud rate and stop bits though..

Edit: just looked seen what they are now.. but it doesnt tell me what they should be when setting everything up.. only tells me about the com port setting up

Get the manual from here: shows you how to set the latency to 1.

The other default settings for the port should be fine:

Bits per second: 9600bps
Data: 8-Bits
Parity: None
Stop Bits: 1
Flow Control: None

Once you've checked the settings and adjusted the latency try again, if still no joy reduce bits per second to 4800 save, reboot and try again.

You can also try alfaobd demo ..
http://www.alfaobd.com/

moodrater said:

Get the manual from here: shows you how to set the latency to 1.

The other default settings for the port should be fine:

Bits per second: 9600bps
Data: 8-Bits
Parity: None
Stop Bits: 1
Flow Control: None

Once you've checked the settings and adjusted the latency try again, if still no joy reduce bits per second to 4800 save, reboot and try again.

Click to expand...

Thanks it connected ok. Cant do DTC's suppose you cant on the free version? but it connected and i got my codes

P0380 - Board Relay,Thermostarter or Preheat - Signal Low - Fatal

P0101 - Air Flow Meter - Signal Low - Stored

P0110 - Air Temp Sensor - Signal high - Stored

P0191 - Diesel Pressure Control - Invalid Signal - Light On

mwooly10 said:

Thanks it connected ok. Cant do DTC's suppose you cant on the free version? but it connected and i got my codes

P0380 - Board Relay,Thermostarter or Preheat - Signal Low - Fatal

P0101 - Air Flow Meter - Signal Low - Stored

P0110 - Air Temp Sensor - Signal high - Stored

P0191 - Diesel Pressure Control - Invalid Signal - Light On

Click to expand...

Some of those are from disconnecting things, make sure everything is connected up, cleat the codes and check them again after you've driven it and its crapped out on you again.

P0191 is your main problem from that list, ecu is requesting a pressure and not seeing it could be as simple as a lift pump, fuel filter. Could be the pressure regulator on the high pressure pump, rail sensor, connectors and wiring to the same or a leaky injector.

You changed the fuel filter didn't you?

If you graph fuel pressure and desired fuel pressure you'll be able to see whether the pressure is too high or too low or if the signal is intermittant or jumping.

One other thing you don't have it remapped or a tuning box fitted do you/

moodrater said:

You can also try alfaobd demo ..
http://www.alfaobd.com/

Click to expand...

didn't open for me,
charlie

moodrater said:

One other thing you don't have it remapped or a tuning box fitted do you/

Click to expand...

No its just bog standard.. re; your previous post i was thinking the same, im just about to go outside in a mo and clear the codes and then retest it tomorrow after ive been out in in.

Wanted to get to the bottom of the clicking noise today and seeing that im always on my own, i got a large brush to push the accelerator down with my head in the engine

Well it is the EGR valve that is clicking its nuts off when i accelerate. had a play with the pipes and had a look at the actuator. there is a suction on there. so ran it again and it was a pile of junk couldn't drive much.

So i took the EGR valve off and you could see the pin going up slowly when i plugged the pipe back on, When i unplugged the actuator it fell, and rose when i plugged it back in. Same happened when i unplugged the MAF sensor. so it seems to be working, just not when i want to drive anywhere..

Now people have said blank it off, but how do you get the top off, as last time the top broke off so i didnt have to do anything, or is the EGR faulty and just not working as it should..