Ok thanks for that

I'll have a ride down to my garage tomorrow, see if they can do it for me

Right well i mended the broken wire, but it must be something else. Checked the cat today as well with a rubber hammer no signs of anything rattling inside.

So just an update so far..

Got in it this morning to go to birmingham, and apart from a couple of slight clicks it drove like a dream there and back.

Got in it this afternoon and back to driving crappy and rough.

Got in it tonight and it rough, clicking like mad then smoking and cutting out every time i went to accelerate. Now i can feel this clicking noise through my clutch(which is fairly new). Also feels like my biting point has dropped, and the clutch is getting stiffer. Also tonight when it cut out i had 1/4 of a tank but when i restarted the engine it went up to 3/4 then slowly fell.

When i say clicking noise, its more like the sound of a door knocker on your front door, only really fast.

Is there anything on the clutch that would cause any of these symptoms??

or anything that it could be related too??

cris1117 said:

Hi I have had two jtd’s and both had very similar symptoms to yours.

Rough running power loss and cutting out sounds very much like the egr valve sticking, It’s an easy job to blank it off and costs nothing, so worth a try once its blanked it becomes completely redundant, so you can then forget about the egr as a culprit.

The other thing I know to be problematic is the crank sensor for random power loss again an easy job about £45 from Fiat, but I would do the egr first for free, you can make the blank plate yourself (baked bean can will do for about 4000 miles) or buy one off eBay for about £3, make sure you don’t get the one with holes in it, you need to completely blank it off to be sure.

Click to expand...

EGR isnt that old as the old one snapped in half.. when it broke tried blanking it off but the van didnt like it very much and just smoked like f*** lol

Think im going to have to buy another van really.. Mines not worth much so i may keep it and try and see if i can fix it or sell it bit by bit.

Been looking at the 2.2 HDi engine suppose to be decent enough on fuel..

cris1117 said:

Hi I have had two jtd’s and both had very similar symptoms to yours.

Rough running power loss and cutting out sounds very much like the egr valve sticking, It’s an easy job to blank it off and costs nothing, so worth a try once its blanked it becomes completely redundant, so you can then forget about the egr as a culprit.

The other thing I know to be problematic is the crank sensor for random power loss again an easy job about £45 from Fiat, but I would do the egr first for free, you can make the blank plate yourself (baked bean can will do for about 4000 miles) or buy one off eBay for about £3, make sure you don’t get the one with holes in it, you need to completely blank it off to be sure.

Click to expand...

Been looking online for the answer but cant find it.. Where is the crank sensor??

cris1117 said:

Hi. If I remember correctly it’s below the starter, you need to get underneath and it’s at the back of the engine one bolt 10mm I think, and one wire.

Click to expand...

Ok cheers for that.. i wasnt too far away earlier then.. i looked around the starter not behind it.. will have another look at some point, its throwing it down with snow now

Had EGR off gave it a good clean, but still the same.. there must be some pressure in the EGR to lift the valve though, i could bearly lift it with my finger..

Cant believe how much grey/black smoke one van can give out though... i got so fed up with it when it cut out, i just rolled on the hard shoulder, got it started again, foot down, 5k revs in second gear and raced it.. got me through the gears into 5th no problem.. until i'd been running for a couple of miles then back to normal lol

cris1117 said:

Hi. My money would still be on EGR did you blank it off with a plate before, have a search for blanking EGR on the stilo section on this site there are some very good how to’s about it.

If not the crank sensor is just below the starter and picks up on the flywheel, just so you know where to look.

No snow in Essex.

Good Luck.

Click to expand...

Yeah on the last one the top broke off so the garage blanked it off with a plate..

Could well be the crank sensor then.. as im baffled now..

Drove about all day looking for another van.. click/knocking noise, cutting out, lots of smoke..

Got in it tonight for my 60 mile round trip to pick the lad up.. and the roads are full of snow and wet (no gritters in sight) and it drove brilliant. parked up for half hour when i got there and on the way back had a little click and went into limp home mode, but then back on the motorway (well i think it was you couldnt see any road lol) and it was fine again..

So good news is my van works again and ive been stuck in snow revving it like mad, and can drive more or less like normal..

Bad news is.. only when its wet it appears

Right well, round town its still the same most of the time.. on the motorway in the wet it drives well.

So went and jet washed as much of the engine as i could, didnt make any difference.. Was talking to someone i know though and they said if it was the crank sensor it wouldn't work at all. and said it may be the cam sensor or timing.

he had a diagnostic machine too so he plugged it in and no codes came up at all. even though the EML has been on a few times today.

Looked at another van same as mine but an 03. drove well as it should with only 77k on the clock, but wasnt too keen on his £2k price for a van thats 10 years old.. so i'll keep trying to fix and look for another

cris1117 said:

Hi. If I remember correctly it’s below the starter, you need to get underneath and it’s at the back of the engine one bolt 10mm I think, and one wire.

Click to expand...

It wasnt there, but i found the little bugger today.. damn it was hard to get the plug off so i could replug it in I had to remove the air filter unit and it down the side under a bracket.

Didnt have a cover on it though as someone mentioned and it was covered in crap. new one should be here tomorrow though.

Same as usual really i had a good mess today unplugging and replugging stuff in.. EGR valve back off (very black but nothing built up), and as usual when ive had a mess about it runs fine for a short time then goes back to being rough.

Seems choked up when i accelerate, bit like and old non turbo diesel. Then a couple of clicks bit of smoke and drives a bit more smoother. Now i would say EGR like others have, but i can feel the clicking noise through my clutch pedal, and if i press the clutch in i can save it cutting out..

Well its in the garage next friday for my very loose top mount. So will change the crank sensor and cam sensor at the same time, and i have also noticed that one of the pully wheels has started to squeal quite a bit

Think i have more than one problem to get this fixed, but i'll keep on looking..

Well my scanner turned up this morning so i plugged it in. and it said i had 7 codes, but when i go to look it says there is none..

anyway i took down my dtc's so if anyone can see anything that looks out of place let me know as they mean bugger all to me

This is taken whilst on idle.

DTC_CNT 7
Load_PCT (%) 100.00
ETC (c) 215
MAP (kpa) 255
RPM (/min) between 198/201
VSS (km/h) 0
IAT (c) 215
MAF (g/s) 0.00
TP (%) 0.0
OBD Not OBD

When a friend did this last week it began with DTC_CNT 6, so im assuming this means the amount of fault codes. Just that its not storing them as theres nothing there.

Well hopefully someone can see something in there and let me know.

DTC CNT

Diagnostic Trouble Codes CouNT .. Sounds right ..!!??,

I've no experience of what to make of the rest though,
Charlie

Thanks Charlie

Well im not mechanically minded, but im trying.. so heres my guess.

It looks like the RPM's are very low, as when i rev it up to 3000 its only showing it as 500 odd. So im assuming it has something to do with the crank sensor

So i would presume that when i want to overtake on the motorway its like i want more power in 5th but its telling the ECU that im only around tickover so its cutting out, same when im going through the gears to accelerate up to 5th gear. The ECU thinks theres not enough power to accelerate and therefore is cutting the engine out, as it would if you want to start of in 3rd gear from standing.

Might be wrong, hopefully someone can help out

Hi , as I said this is partial guesswork,
but the TP is Throttle Position = closed = 0%

MAF is Mass Air Flow = 0 = ZERO too - that doesn't ring true to me if the engines actually running - breathing..!!

ETC and IAT , may well be pre and post ( Catalyst) Exhaust gas sensors by the 215 degrees C figures..??,

VSS - Vehicle Speed Sensor = 0 = Stationary..!!

Hopefully somebody could confirm / deny these theories.

maybe try disconnecting the plug from the MAF ( inlet tract) ,and have a quick drive.

I'm 90% sure the ECU should substitute a missing value(0%) with an arbitrary one (35%??) - "limp-home" settings.

have fun,
Charlie

Thanks Charlie, maybe your right. Although the MAF sensor is new, so it should be working.

Also whilst looking earlier the scanner said that the Fuel monitor,EGR monitor and the Cat monitor were all ok.

and the van is as good on fuel as the day i bought it. Ive been out tonight twice.. First time was a little crappy but nowhere near as bad as before, and 2nd time. I find if i keep the revs high before i change gear it seems to drive a bit better.

As you say hopefully someone will come and have a look who knows what everything means..

Like I said get a kkl cable on ebay (£6 now link) and the free version of fiat/multiecu scan.

The ducato you have is not properly obd compliant, no generic obd tool I have give any of the right figures, for example they all give intake air temperature 215 just like yours. The only thing that even changes is the rpm and thats proportionally incorrect.

moodrater said:

Like I said get a kkl cable on ebay (£6 now link) and the free version of fiat/multiecu scan.

The ducato you have is not properly obd compliant, no generic obd tool I have give any of the right figures, for example they all give intake air temperature 215 just like yours. The only thing that even changes is the rpm and thats proportionally incorrect.

Click to expand...

Right ok. So my scanner is a bit useless then

Looked at the link you gave but it says most of those are for Audi and VW's, or do they work with most cars/vans made in europe?

Edit: Ah ok been a long day So its the cd that comes with it. the cable is for any vehicle

Thanks for the link btw

Scanner is not useless it will work on the vast majority of petrol cars and vans under 10-12 years old and the majority of diesel cars and vans under 6-8 years old. Just not yours.

Regarding the KKL cable - all the cable does is provide a way for the software on the computer to talk to the k and l lines on the diagnostic connector in your vehicle.

The software does the rest here are some you can use:
- VAG COM 311.2 - VW, AUDI, SEAT, SEAT, SKODA 1992-2004
- VAG-COM 4.09
- OPEL Tech 2 - OPEL 1996-2004
- AB COM - OPEL 1996-2004
- OP-COM demo - OPEL 1996-2004
- MB Carsof 7.4 - 1992-2004 (not all models)
- BMW Carsoft -BMW od 1996-2004 (not all models)
- VOLVO FCR
- SUBARU KL
- Monoscan 2.12 supporting kw1281 and kw2000 protocols
- Opel tech2
- Scantech OBDII 1.35 (iso9141 and kw2000 protocols, non can-bus) for KKL
- FiatECUScan for Alfa, Fiat, Lancia
- Renault DDT2000 - models up to 2004
- BMW CARTESTER33 - For old BMW cars CarTester
- OBDTool 1.2.60 (iso9141 protocol, non can-bus) for KKL
- Opel KM (for mileage change Opel Vectra, Astra)
- Opel,GM Freescan 207
- Opel Airbag Crash Data Reseter
- unidiag 0.4.0.3 for alfa-fiat-opel packed by manocao with 38 def files and 9 dtc files
- VAG Eepromer 1.18 - mileage for VAG
- WBH-Diag 0.88 freeware for KW1281 protocol based Non-CAN VAG cars

Looking at the ones on ebay its probably worth paying an extra £2 and getting one from a uk company:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-vw-au...ic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a1f00f02b&_uhb=1