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Technical 2004 2.8 JTD error code P0235

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Technical 2004 2.8 JTD error code P0235

Jockeylad1st

Jockeylad1st

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I have purchased a vag com cable, fiatecuscan and read error code. Thanks to those who directed me to buy this as it works great...unlike the previous two that I bought and returned for a refund!
Stored code is P0235 supercharger.
As on my original post, the warning light only seems to come on when above 3200rpm in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear. If you change gear and accelerate while light is on, it seems as though it goes into limp home mode. As soon as rpm's drop below 3200rpm, the light goes out and normal driving resumes. The vehicle starts and drives perfectly other than this.
I have read that it may be the EGR pipes/valve or turbo waste gate sticking. Where will I find the EGR and have any of you got any other thoughts on what it may also be?
 
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Disconnect the actuator rod from the wastegate (tiny c clip) the gate should swing very freely. If it does the diaphragm in your actuator could be shot you can get them repaired but probably not worth it. I have a spare one here if you're really stuck postage would probably be silly though.

Turbo wastegate is sticking I have a spare one here if you want to try it.

p0235 is overboost is it? Don't see how the egr would cause that error I'd have to think about it.

Could be the map sensor too located on top of the manifold, would only take a couple of a minutes to borrow one from another van to check.
 
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Thanks for the reply Corkman.
P0235 is; Turbo boost sensor A circuit malfunction.

Got the EGR fault from another thread on fiat forum, it sounded very similar to the fault on my motorhome (although his was on a car).

I will try your suggestion over the next few days and may take you up on your offer of spares for the wastegate/diaphragm, I'll let you know soon as.

Once again, thanks for the advice (y). I'll let yo know how I get on.

Cheers
Russell
 
Keyboard gremlins got my post should say IF wastegate is sticking ..

Was thinking if the egr was stuck all the way open and there was enough back pressure in the exhaust it may raise the intake manifold pressure. If yours has egr valve it will be round valve above left of the intake manifold with small diameter metal pipe to the exhaust manifold. EGR can be cleaned there are loads of videos on youtube and thread with detailed descriptions.
 
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Hi Corkman,
I will check tonight as I wasn't sure if it had an egr valve myself. At least I know where to look for it now!
 
wastegate/turbo at rear of engine but can be accessed by crawling underneath vehicle if no ramp available (keep keys in your pocket!) done loads of these especially when vehicle not used for a while as motorhomes often are however thaty said I have changed quite a few boost sensors as Corkman said (much cheapness on ebay)
 
T14086 said:
wastegate/turbo at rear of engine but can be accessed by crawling underneath vehicle if no ramp available (keep keys in your pocket!) done loads of these especially when vehicle not used for a while as motorhomes often are however thaty said I have changed quite a few boost sensors as Corkman said (much cheapness on ebay)
Click to expand...

Haven't managed to find the time to do job yet, sometime this week hopefully. What did you find to be the most common problem, wastegate, actuator/diaphragm or MAP sensor? I may then go about it in that order.
 
Hi all,

Managed to remove 'c' clip from the end of the wastegate actuator arm and the wastegate seems free, with a metal to metal sound at either end of travel. I have also checked the single pipe from the compressor casing to the actuator and this also seems fine.
Regarding the actuator, how do I test to see if the diaphragm is passing? Actuator arm does travel back and fourth when a reasonable amount of force is applied axially. Is that how you test the actuator, pulling arm and creating a vacuum?
Other than this, I will look at the MAP sensor.

Anyone with any other hints, tips or ideas feel free to let me know.

Thanks to all who have helped so far (y).
 
Tested actuator with airline and everything works ok. Next, thing to try is changing the MAP sensor, and then, if problem still exists, check egr valve etc.
I will keep you all posted on progress.
 
I wrote a reply but must've forgotten to send it.

The pressure that it opens at is only about 1 bar iirc. Even if it was totally banjaxed and airline will move it. If the diaphram is damaged the actuator pressure might increase to 1.5 or 2 bar.Unless you have a pressure regulator on your airline that you can set to small pressures like that you won't know if it actuating at the correct pressure. Also without a regulator I imaging the diaphragm could be damaged. I'd use a foot pump as you can regulate the pressure yourself that way.
 
corkman said:
I wrote a reply but must've forgotten to send it.

The pressure that it opens at is only about 1 bar iirc. Even if it was totally banjaxed and airline will move it. If the diaphram is damaged the actuator pressure might increase to 1.5 or 2 bar.Unless you have a pressure regulator on your airline that you can set to small pressures like that you won't know if it actuating at the correct pressure. Also without a regulator I imaging the diaphragm could be damaged. I'd use a foot pump as you can regulate the pressure yourself that way.
Click to expand...

Thanks Corkman, sounds like good common sense. I'll give it another go at the correct pressure. That said, when I was using the fiatecuscan programme, I used the graph with rpm and turbo pressure tags on screen to see what the pressure was like against rpm's. With the vehicle on my drive, I ran the engine through whole rev range and the turbo pressure reached 1.69 bar at 4000rpm. Is this too high or about right, as you did say in yor reply the actuator kcks in at about 1 bar?

Anyway, thanks again for the advice (y).
 
All,

Carried out calibrated pressure test (in our test lab at power station) on the waste gate actuator as suggested by Corkman, results as follows;
1. Actuator rod just starts to move at 13.5 psi.
2. Full travel achieved at 27 psi.

Pretty sure now that I can eleiminate this as causing fault code. I do remember that, once 'c' clip was removed, it was extremely difficult to prize the pin out of the hole in the end of the actuator rod. Could this have been seized enough to raise the pressure required to actuate? So I've added a few thou clearance to the hole.

I think next step must be MAP sensor, then egr valve.
 
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Jockeylad1st said:
All,

Carried out calibrated pressure test (in our test lab at power station) on the waste gate actuator as suggested by Corkman, results as follows;
1. Actuator rod just starts to move at 13.5 psi.
2. Full travel achieved at 27 psi.

Pretty sure now that I can eleiminate this as causing fault code. I do remember that, once 'c' clip was removed, it was extremely difficult to prize the pin out of the hole in the end of the actuator rod. Could this have been seized enough to raise the pressure required to actuate? So I've added a few thou clearance to the hole.

Well it looks as though the above underlined was the fault...the wastegate pin had seized enough inside the actuator rod hole to increase the pressure required to open the wastegate :slayer:.
I would have inserted the clip from when Ricky Gervais (The Office) doing his famous dance, but the 'rock-on' emoticon'll have to do.

Many thanks to all for your suggestions as you've probably helped me save £100's, as I can imagine how much I'd have been charged (for all the un-necessary spare parts) had I gone to a main dealer (y)!
Click to expand...
 
Jockeylad1st said:
Jockeylad1st said:
All,

Carried out calibrated pressure test (in our test lab at power station) on the waste gate actuator as suggested by Corkman, results as follows;
1. Actuator rod just starts to move at 13.5 psi.
2. Full travel achieved at 27 psi.

Pretty sure now that I can eleiminate this as causing fault code. I do remember that, once 'c' clip was removed, it was extremely difficult to prize the pin out of the hole in the end of the actuator rod. Could this have been seized enough to raise the pressure required to actuate? So I've added a few thou clearance to the hole.

Well it looks as though the above underlined was the fault...the wastegate pin had seized enough inside the actuator rod hole to increase the pressure required to open the wastegate :slayer:.
I would have inserted the clip from when Ricky Gervais (The Office) doing his famous dance, but the 'rock-on' emoticon'll have to do.

Many thanks to all for your suggestions as you've probably helped me save £100's, as I can imagine how much I'd have been charged (for all the un-necessary spare parts) had I gone to a main dealer (y)!
Click to expand...

Wait til you see the dance your wife does when you tell her how much money you saved that she can now spend on shoes. :D

Glad to hear its sorted, another instance where a squirt of wd40 or a splodge of coppaslip would have probably sorted it!
Click to expand...
 
corkman said:
Jockeylad1st said:
Wait til you see the dance your wife does when you tell her how much money you saved that she can now spend on shoes. :D

Glad to hear its sorted, another instance where a squirt of wd40 or a splodge of coppaslip would have probably sorted it!
Click to expand...

Took the motorhome out for the weekend and it does seem to have sorted fault as no RED LIGHT appeared at all!

Corkman, I spent that well earned cash on quite a few jars of the finest real ale and, if there's any left by Christmas, I'll get her-in-doors some shoes (rather unlikely though:D)!
Click to expand...
 
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