Hi Dave
Glad the guide was of use to you, in regard to the "tensioner Bolt in paragraph 9. I was referring to, it is the Bolt through the bottom tensioner pulley or bracket & to be honest I can't remember but maybe it is a nut & washer that holds the bottom tension pulley on. Again it was that long ago I can't remember other than it had to tensioned correctly before you can put the bottom plastic timing belt cover & then the crank pulley back on.

Revised Quote: tighten the tensioner (bracket retaining bolt) (25 Nm) & also the tensioner nut (37-47Nm) - the retaining nut for the pulley itself) which needs to be done before installing the lower cover & its bolts.
hope that sort of helps!
Cheers

I used FreeSpirit's excellent write up too.
The only thing I found was the tightening of the lower toothed idler under the lower cambelt cover which is retained by the nut and washer at the top of the lower cambelt cover on rhside (see pic).
I found that you had to be careful not to distort the plastic cover under this nut as it would distort the lower cover if the washer underneath wasn't exactly square on the spindle. The belt can touch the lower cover if not careful when replacing this nut and washer.
I also found that due to the ratios of the cam belt train pulleys the timing marks would not line up again for very many crank rotations and I added a couple of snowpake marks on the belt just to double check when trail rotating by hand.
I also found the gap on the camshaft position sensor very critical when getting the engine going again after changing the belt (that's if you removed it when removing covers).

Good evening Freespirit and Toyogran.

Freespirit, many thanks for your excellent write up and guide on how to do the timing belt. I think without this I probably wouldn't have done the job myself. I've changed plenty timing belts but the access to the one on this engine is the worst I've come across. I was intending to remove the engine mount but it would have meant removing the AC pipes which I simply couldn't be bothered doing. It took me a total of ten hours to do this job spread out over four days. I'd never make any money as a mechanic. I had a quick look at the water pump just in case that ever needs doing and it looks lovely and tight up there too. More grief for another day.

Anyhoo, I'm home and hosed now and will raise a wee toast to your walkthrough on how to do this job later on tonight.

Best wishes, Dave.

I am in the process of doing this as well as removing injector pump for a rebuild.
This may sound like a stupid question but does the engine need to be supported to remove the engine mount? I only ask as I am working on a slope and will be difficult.

rednwhitevan said:

I am in the process of doing this as well as removing injector pump for a rebuild.
This may sound like a stupid question but does the engine need to be supported to remove the engine mount? I only ask as I am working on a slope and will be difficult.

Click to expand...

Yes I use a block of timber with polyethylene foam on top and a trolley jack under the sump you can then lower it just enough to get the correct height.

I would borrow a level drive or yard to do it if you're on a slope the engine will want to fall forward against the intercooler etc.

Ok thanks, i figured as much just thought i would ask...though why would i need to lower it?

corcai said:

Yes I use a block of timber with polyethylene foam on top and a trolley jack under the sump you can then lower it just enough to get the correct height.

I would borrow a level drive or yard to do it if you're on a slope the engine will want to fall forward against the intercooler etc.

Click to expand...

?

rednwhitevan said:

?

Click to expand...

Well you don't have to unless you're doing the crankseal, crankseal is only about €12 here so I do it at the same time.

corcai said:

Well you don't have to unless you're doing the crankseal, crankseal is only about €12 here so I do it at the same time.

Click to expand...

I am in two minds whether to replace crank seal only as I am having great difficulty getting one quickly. The van has done 300,000 kms and although the seal does appear to have a slight weep, there was no evidence of fresh oil in the lower timing case cover, there was however a build up of used oil though i believe this may be coming from the rocker cover...I just wonder if this type of seal tends to weep a little even new, and also whether i could get another 100,000kms out of it without bother. The crank seal at the drive end i would be more concerned about.

Whats the time and km interval for changing these?

wfdTamar said:

Whats the time and km interval for changing these?

Click to expand...

Fiat recommendation is check at 60k km, replace at 120k km or 48 months whichever is soonest.

Thanks. Mine's (2002 Hymer) only done 53,000km total, but 6 years since last belt change (thats in the records). It's a 2.8 jtd 8140.43S which I think is the easier common rail.

Weird you can't get the flywheel locking tools anywhere. I'm going to have to make my own based on Freespirits photo's.

I don't believe it - I found a workshop manual in English for these engines. Requires signing up for free 30m day trial and credit card info. Don't forget to cancel if you don't want to be charged at the end of the trial. Worth searching there for other stuff too.

scribd Iveco Dail manual


I think it's free here, but I can't see a way to download the lot in one shot, only page by page:

workshopmanual dot com

They show a flywheel lock in that manual which I found for sale here:

dutchengineparts dot nl '99360306 TOOL' €36

Hi guys. I have just bought a series 2 Ducato and it has 186,000 km on the odometer. I believe the timing belt is supposed to be done every 120,000. what are the chances that it is still on the original timing belt? 60,000 km over seems pretty significant but not impossible.

Can anyone recommend a link to a kit as I have found prices range from $150AU to $1800AU. I know from previous experience that more expensive and genuine aren't always the best.

Thanks in advance.

Hi jOe
Welcome to the forum, there are some friendly and helpful people here, I have certainly learned a lot from them, as they have helped me in the past

I notice that you are from Australia
I very recently purchased the 2.8 JTD engine timing Kit, in Australia from the mob below


They are based somewhere in the Melbourne area, and have a 100% feedback
You have no option but to use the express postage, (if like me you are in another State)

Total cost to me in Western Australia was just less than $200, and it arrived in 2 days, so it must have come by air


The kit is a European brand name, so I know nothing of the quality
All I can say is that the belt and roller sizes, were the same as my original ones

Below is the link to the timing kit I purchased, I sent him my Vin # to be sure I got the correct kit

Link to the 2.8 JTD engine timing kit
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TIMING-BELT-KIT-FIAT-DUCATO-2-8L-JTD-IVECO-DAILY-35S13-35S15-40C13-50C15-65C15/264706551042?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

PS I also put up a description, of how I changed the timing belt kit, but unfortunately a lot of pics never came out, but the one from Freespirit, (the post we are on) is the one I originally followed

Thanks, Grey Nomad. I'll get onto them now.

Slightly off-topic and a very general question, because no one really knows how long a piece of string is, but seeing as there are very JTD 2.8 knowledgeable people here, I take the chance to ask:


-- Does 120k miles sound like a lot for a JTD 2.8 (low profile motorhome from 2004, carrying 4 berths)?

If all goes well, should one expect 3-400k from a lump like that?

As already noted, I know it is too abstract (without knowing how it sounds, smells, service history, etc.), but I grew up in a haulage corporation where Fiat was always laughed at and only Volvo and Scania were considered proper jobs, so I guess I am looking for a little reassurance.

Looked at another JTD 2.8 yesterday with half the miles (approx. 60), which had been chip tuned, by the way, and it looked almost like new under the bonnet and sounded great - balanced, calm. I was very impressed, but the layout wasn't really what we needed. The 120k, on the other hand, fits the bill better for us. The family wants that, but my gut says the lower miles is the preferred option.

Comments?

Of course half the miles is better..

But most PETROL CARS wont struggle to reach 120k

A diesel should make double.. without abuse.

Look in the vans.. not many actual motor issues..

Ancilliaries wear out.. but motors are pretty robust

Read the 'Australiaised Ducato ' threads

Brilliant post , I just changed mine and couldn’t have done it without this .
One thing I’m not sure if it’s mentioned is that there is a slight difference in size between the tension pulley and idler pulley,
The kit will supply both but they look identical and both will fit in each other’s place. The tension pulley is 64 mm diameter and the idler pulley ( the one nearest to the cam ) is bigger at 67 mm .
I’m puzzled as to why they did this and don’t even know if it would make a difference ? Still worth mentioning.