Technical Common Faults with 244 Model

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Technical Common Faults with 244 Model

PeterM

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John CS said https://www.fiatforum.com/ducato/132855-reversing-judder-x250-5.html#74 "If I can be bothered ( and I don't impose a self-imposed sabbatical on myself, caused by chopsy motorhome owners who pay £50k to have something sit on the drive 11 months of the year), I will post up a thread of common faults on the 244 in order to help people who genuinely are appreciative of help."

I and I am sure several others here, would be very appreciative (y) if you, John CS, could follow through with this. I have had no problems at all with my 244 Maxi 2.8JTD, but forewarned is forearmed.:worship:

PeterM
 
Here it is as last: Some common faults with the 244 model that I have experienced.

Disclaimer: Please be safe when checking for faults on your vehicle, high voltages are utilised
in both modern petrol and diesel systems which can cause electric shocks and could be fatal.
Diesel fuel is also very poisonous and given the astronomically high pressure used in common rail
diesel systems, accidental ingestion or injection of fuel into the human body can cause death.
if in any doubt, please refer your vehicle to a specialist.
Please chock and make sure the vehicle is in gear with the handbrake full on before venturing underneath,
remembering that a Fiat Ducato is heavier than most domestic workshop jacks and axle ramps can take.
Please be responsible, for your own safety and make sure somebody nearby knows your are working on the vehicle
and will keep an eye out in case of an accident.




Problem: Fuel gauge jumps erratically to past the Full position and drops back
to the level of Fuel in the van,only to jump back again to the above Full position

Cause.Damp/wetness on fuel sender connections on top of the tank. Caused by
dampness when laid up or driving the nearside wheel through a flood or puddle.


Remedy: I've proved this time and again, this will dry out and as soon as it is dried,
just driving is enough to dry it out.


Problem: Tramping and jumping during fast cornering.

Cause. Faulty shock absorber. Hard to check the normal way due to the stiffness of the
Ducatos' suspension, but leaking on the strut concerned by looking underneath the wheelarch
is good enough diagnosis

Remedy: Replacement. It is permissible to change the one concerned if the failed one is due
to kerbing or parking ( ie delivery vehicles).

Problem: Vehicle pulls to left after steering being on LH lock, and pulling right after being
on RH steering lock.

Cause. Aluminium Thrust bearings on top of suspension struts have failed. This puts the suspension
geometry under strain and steering will not self-centre after performing a turn. Almost certainly caused
by excessive kerbing.

Remedy: It's a take the strut out job and replace the thrust bearing pads at the top.

Problem: Excessive vibration on uphill reverse manouevres (2.8JTD other models may also be affected)
Also can be diagnosed when idling with the vehicle facing downhill, blipping the throttle
causes cab to judder.

Cause. Rear engine mounting worn.

Remedy: Replace the mounting.

Problem: Difficulty shifting gears, coupled with roaring vibration unless you hold the gear lever.

Cause. Gearshift cable mounting to gearbox loose.

Remedy: Get under the vehicle and follow the cables down from the gear lever towards the gearbox.
There will be a mounting held on by locknuts: If these are loose, they need tightening.
Tighten fully, then undo by one turn, otherwise 1st gear selection will be difficult!

Problem: Rough running and power down (2.8JTD), sounds like only three cylinders operating.

Cause: Possibly broken/damaged electrical wiring to No4 injector.

Remedy: Can usually be diagnosed by wiggling the wire slightly, which may improve running. Please be aware
of possibility of electric shock
, so inspect wiring first prior to touching it! I would entrust
any work like this to a reputable fuel injection specialist.

Problem: Glow plug light flashes momentarily after starting in sub-zero temperatures (2.8JTD)

Cause. This is not a fault, this is the post heating system.

Remedy: None, it will stop as soon as the engine dictates that it's warm enough.


Problem: Graunching noise changing into 4th gear.

Cause. Worn syncromesh on 4th gear.

Remedy: New gearbox, although double de-clutching when changing either up or down into 4th gear will stop
the graunching. I've covered nearly 50,000 miles with this issue, by using the double de-clutching method.

Problem: Engine races under acceleration in 4th and 5th gear, and then drops back to normal level.

Cause. Clutch Failure.

Remedy: Obviously replacement, but ours did nearly 30,000 miles of driving before we actually decided to get it replaced! So failure may not be imminent!!!

I hope this guide is of some use. I've now covered 149,000 miles in my Ducato, it is a delivery vehicle, stop-start multi-drop driving, carrying heavy loads. it is used 6 days a week and typically covers 500 miles a week.

The Ducato is a very tough vehicle, and in normal use, shouldn't have a lot go wrong with it apart from needing normal maintenance.
 
Last edited:
Thanks John CS, a very useful collection and mercifully shows that the 2.8JTD is a reasonably low-fault vehicle. (y)

PeterM
 
Hi there
Thanks for run down on common faults
for 2.8jtd
we have an 2006 model so this will be a good crib sheet
to start from

Tony
 
Please click one of the Quick Reply icons in the posts above to activate Quick Reply.
 
John... Great list and good reference prior to tearing into something
I have a fuel guage which now only goes to three quaters full mark even though fuel comming out of the filler. Do you think its the same as the problem you outline first on your list and will remedy itself in time if it dries out?
 
John... Great list and good reference prior to tearing into something
I have a fuel guage which now only goes to three quaters full mark even though fuel comming out of the filler. Do you think its the same as the problem you outline first on your list and will remedy itself in time if it dries out?

I found the fuel card* in a 05 was worn away in a particular area, it was obvious that the previous owner was in the habit of doing 5 euro fills and kept the tank 1/4 full all the wear was restricted to a 10th of the range. Maybe yours has been hovering around 3/4 full.

The puddle on top of the tank really concerned me my father fabriated a cover with a drain tube.

http://www.bourns.com/pdfs/bourns_fuel_card_apno.pdf
 
Thanks for that diagram.. which explains what a "sender" device is this phrase was causing some confusion to me.
I'm inclined to think this problem may be damp/water ingress related as my inaugeral post was a problem with my speedo and engine light.. which was investigated and turned out to be water corrosion on connections.
I'm thinking my camper may be prown to this problem and the fuel gage is yet another manifistation of this.
The difficulty is gaining access to the effected area as this Burstner A Class is a pig to work on.
Is the fuel tank easy to access as ther seems to be an access plate below the passenger seat?
 
Thanks for that diagram.. which explains what a "sender" device is this phrase was causing some confusion to me.
I'm inclined to think this problem may be damp/water ingress related as my inaugeral post was a problem with my speedo and engine light.. which was investigated and turned out to be water corrosion on connections.
I'm thinking my camper may be prown to this problem and the fuel gage is yet another manifistation of this.
The difficulty is gaining access to the effected area as this Burstner A Class is a pig to work on.
Is the fuel tank easy to access as ther seems to be an access plate below the passenger seat?

Yes the access plate is directly over the pump/sender unit. Some converters carpet over it which makes it easier to drop the tank.
 
Back home after great weekend in west. Removed the initial covers to the tank proper, wit a large number of small bolts clamping down a flange with fuel lines and an electrical plug.
can the sender be accessed and viewed from her and if necessary replaced. You mention dropping the tank.. will that be necessary?
 
If you remove the nuts you can lift the whole sender assembly out you have to tilt it carefully to monoever the float out.

Before you take it out check the connectors for corrosion even if it looks ok give it a good squirt of contact cleaner and plug it on and off a few times to clean the contacts. See if that helps.
 
Will do as you suggest but it all looks very dry at that spot.
is there a gasket/seal on that flange which I will need to replace if going into the tank is the next option
 
Will do as you suggest but it all looks very dry at that spot.
is there a gasket/seal on that flange which I will need to replace if going into the tank is the next option

There is a substanstial rubber gasket, I have read that it should be replaced, I just give it a good clean and use a silicone lubricant. Have had no problems with water in the tank.
 
Hi Corkman
Before proceeding with the removal of the cover I did as you suggested and removed the plug connector gave a WD40 treatment remade the connection a few times and low and behold the gauge went to full I ran the enging for a while and was in the process of refitting the cover plates and just peeked at the gauge and it had returnrd to 3/4 full. I swithched off the engine and repeated the process and again it went to full and this time I ran the engine and watched as it slowly dropped to 3/4 took about 4 mins.
the plug looks fine and wiring is in good order
Any ideas? as to this... or is the problem now in the tank.. thanks for your help so far it great
 
I doubt the problem is in the tank if disconnecting the sender fixed it. I'll see if I can measure the resistance of the sender and let you know.
 
Hi Corkman:worship:
I tried this again last evening connecting and re-connecting the plug and again had the same result when I ran the engine.
I then as a matter of curiousity made the connection "again" watched the gauge go to full on MAR on ingnition and rather than run the engine swithched it off and left it for two hours. When I re- engaged to MAR on the ignition it still read full... as it is
I'm no really sure what that proves except that power is needed to give fuel readings that said... Do you know what devices such as relays or converters does this signal go through before it gets to the fuel needle as you said its a power/current/voltage drop corrosponding to the fuel needle going to 3/4 full:confused:
 
Hi Tom, Forgot all about this the resistance when empty is 330 ohms, full is 7 ohm and approx half full is 120ohm. The connections to the fuel card are by nickel plated fingers the ones on the fuel card I tested were tarnished and making bad contact. If you cleaned these and bent them to make better contact your problem might be solved.
 
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