3 months down the road and I am finally getting around to doing something about this. My pal had a stroke and then was found to have cancer, so the van was forgotten about. However, I now need to get it running so he can sell it. I bought a s/h steering lock and key, which came with the code box, aerial and half the steering column! I fitted it a few days ago but the battery was flat, so I never got to try it. I charged the battery and refitted it today, but no matter where I put the original key, the code light won't go out. Is this because I have had the battery off? Or is it more likely to be the immobiliser problem on the pump I have been reading about? I need to get this done as cheaply as possible for him as he obviously hasn't been able to work for some time, and is unlikely to work again.
General Broken ignition barrel
- Thread starter curls
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General Broken ignition barrel
I just tried the reset button next to the battery, but no joy. Would someone be kind enough to PM or email me with details of how to bypass the immobiliser? I really need to get this thing running. The van is a W reg 1905cc diesel 10D SWB, if that makes any difference
Thanks.
Thanks.
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I was hoping I would have good reason to grateful to someone this weekend, but it's not looking that way. 
I realise that it's more than possible that no one with the knowledge has read the thread, but I still can't help being disappointed.
I realise that it's more than possible that no one with the knowledge has read the thread, but I still can't help being disappointed.
I can only make a guess at probable causes,
1) if you are using a "new" key with the "new" barrel, the transponder in the new key is interfering with the old one, and your immobiliser needs to see the old one by itself.
One outside chance is to get a new key cut on a plain blank, with no transponder on it, and try that with the old key on the keyring next to it.
----or---
2) the immobiliser has been disturbed/lost it's memory of the old key entirely, and it needs to re programmed with the red key.
3) Can't tell you how to bypass the immobiliser, but i believe it involves removing the pump, and then removing the immobiliser from the pump itself.
Tens of pounds though, not hundreds.
Good luck, if you do get it running post back and let us know.
1) if you are using a "new" key with the "new" barrel, the transponder in the new key is interfering with the old one, and your immobiliser needs to see the old one by itself.
One outside chance is to get a new key cut on a plain blank, with no transponder on it, and try that with the old key on the keyring next to it.
----or---
2) the immobiliser has been disturbed/lost it's memory of the old key entirely, and it needs to re programmed with the red key.
3) Can't tell you how to bypass the immobiliser, but i believe it involves removing the pump, and then removing the immobiliser from the pump itself.
Tens of pounds though, not hundreds.
Good luck, if you do get it running post back and let us know.
Hi Mikey,
It's possible for me to take the new key out of the equation - that was one of my first thoughts - so unfortunately that's not it. I wish it had been that simple.
No red key, and only one black key, so that's another avenue that's blocked.
I do have a vague idea how to bypass the immobiliser, but I would rather be certain about it in case I do more damage.
Thanks very much for your reply, it's much appreciated.
P.S. If anyone reading this thread knows how to bypass the immobiliser and doesn't want to tell me in case I am looking for a way to steal the van, just check the age of this thread, and my year old post about the clutch pedal spring on the same vehicle. If I was out to do that, I'm going the long way about it. Anyway, how many 58 year old car thieves are there around?
It's possible for me to take the new key out of the equation - that was one of my first thoughts - so unfortunately that's not it. I wish it had been that simple.
No red key, and only one black key, so that's another avenue that's blocked.
I do have a vague idea how to bypass the immobiliser, but I would rather be certain about it in case I do more damage.
Thanks very much for your reply, it's much appreciated.
P.S. If anyone reading this thread knows how to bypass the immobiliser and doesn't want to tell me in case I am looking for a way to steal the van, just check the age of this thread, and my year old post about the clutch pedal spring on the same vehicle. If I was out to do that, I'm going the long way about it. Anyway, how many 58 year old car thieves are there around?
You could look at
https://www.fiatforum.com/ducato/158690-key-code-light.html or
https://www.fiatforum.com/ducato/154411-ducato-2-8d-key-will-not-start-van.html
and try a pm.
https://www.fiatforum.com/ducato/158690-key-code-light.html or
https://www.fiatforum.com/ducato/154411-ducato-2-8d-key-will-not-start-van.html
and try a pm.
look at
https://www.fiatforum.com/ducato/48183-ducato-code-problem.html
first, this may apply to yours.
Read it all the way through, the best solutions appear to be on the last page.
https://www.fiatforum.com/ducato/48183-ducato-code-problem.html
first, this may apply to yours.
Read it all the way through, the best solutions appear to be on the last page.
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Told you a couple of months ago the best and cheapest way to get around this.
PS. if you get someone to mess with the security system ( ie...buy-pass immobaliser), your insurance cover becomes void.
PS. if you get someone to mess with the security system ( ie...buy-pass immobaliser), your insurance cover becomes void.
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My pal has had a stroke and now has cancer, so insurance is the last thing on his mind as he is unlikely ever to drive again. He needs it running so it can be moved/sold.
At the beginning of the thread, it was thought that just the barrel was broken, but as it turned out, the barrel broke because the steering lock itself was broken, so while you thought your way around it might have been the cheapest at the time, in the end it would have been a waste of money as another steering lock was needed.
Anyway, this is by the by. If someone had been willing to give me explicit instructions on how to bypass the immobiliser, it wouldn't cost him another penny. That's obviously not going to happen, so I have to hope I've followed the other threads well enough that I can do it myself and hope I don't make things worse.
Your input at the time was appreciated, believe me, but is no longer valid.
No worries, hope you get it sorted.
Dont worry about it mate
Crossingkeeper
Established member
I've come in a bit late on this but if it helps...
my van has had an after market alarm fitted at some stage and the aerial around the ignition barrel has been removed as part of the work (so key is just a key and not a transponder any more).
Obviously the immobiliser in the fuel pump had to be 'modified' and this seems to have been done by altering the 3 wire loom to the pump.
Not sure about the etiquette of posting what has been done on the general forum but if Curls wants to pm me will go into more detail.
I note that the van he is working on is a 2000 1.9 whilst mine is a 1998 2.5, but I suppose if it also has a 3 wire connection to pump it's likely to be same system.
my van has had an after market alarm fitted at some stage and the aerial around the ignition barrel has been removed as part of the work (so key is just a key and not a transponder any more).
Obviously the immobiliser in the fuel pump had to be 'modified' and this seems to have been done by altering the 3 wire loom to the pump.
Not sure about the etiquette of posting what has been done on the general forum but if Curls wants to pm me will go into more detail.
I note that the van he is working on is a 2000 1.9 whilst mine is a 1998 2.5, but I suppose if it also has a 3 wire connection to pump it's likely to be same system.
I never did get the van going, (though I have PM'd CrossingKeeper, here's hoping he sees it), but the good news is that after 2 1/2 months, they have finally started my pal on chemotherapy. It's early days, and he has a long way to go, but so far he is responding well.
Its ok as this has been spoken about many times in the past in this section and is a common repair.
Crossingkeeper
Established member
Hi Curls,
Sorry about delay in replying, now sent pm.
It's a long message so won't reproduce it here but in view of TI's comment, and to give closure to the thread, it seems that the pump on my van has had the anti-tamper plate removed and whatever was under it disconnected and removed.
There is now only a single wire left which feeds 12 volts to the fuel cut-off solenoid and this has been connected directly to the 12v supply from the ignition switch.
(fortunately the aftermarket alarm immobilizes the starting circuit so it's still fairly theft-proof)
Sorry about delay in replying, now sent pm.
It's a long message so won't reproduce it here but in view of TI's comment, and to give closure to the thread, it seems that the pump on my van has had the anti-tamper plate removed and whatever was under it disconnected and removed.
There is now only a single wire left which feeds 12 volts to the fuel cut-off solenoid and this has been connected directly to the 12v supply from the ignition switch.
(fortunately the aftermarket alarm immobilizes the starting circuit so it's still fairly theft-proof
)I am having trouble with my ignition assembly. How DO you get the key barrel out. It looks as though it is held in with blind pins... JRE
I'd like some advice as well on a 2003 Ducato 2 litre.
Then ignition key has decided that it doesn't like staying in the on position, any slight bump and it flicks back to the off position and cuts the engine.
The van has just gone in for a recall (at 6 years old) and I asked the dealer to quote for the lock repair - over £700
£73 for the lock £320 for the "kit to fit it" and £288 labour all + VAT
Can anybody tell me what the "kit to fit it" is? and is that 100% necessary? As that wasn't mentioned somewhere else I enquired.
Otherwise has anybody else any advice on what is needed to get the key to stay in the on position?
Then ignition key has decided that it doesn't like staying in the on position, any slight bump and it flicks back to the off position and cuts the engine.
The van has just gone in for a recall (at 6 years old) and I asked the dealer to quote for the lock repair - over £700
£73 for the lock £320 for the "kit to fit it" and £288 labour all + VAT
Can anybody tell me what the "kit to fit it" is? and is that 100% necessary? As that wasn't mentioned somewhere else I enquired.
Otherwise has anybody else any advice on what is needed to get the key to stay in the on position?