Here we go if this helps everyone, just done this today and what a tw@t of a job!!! Thanks for Torq's instructions on here were almost correct for the HDI 2.0, heres my amendments. Hope they help anyone.
1. Jack up van and remove passenger side wheel, Put van on axle stands, but under body not axle.
2. Remove air filter lid and filter, then remove bolts inside the filter to remove filter box.
3. Jack up gearbox side, remove nut that holds gearbox end mount to chassis, it's near the air filter.
4. Strip down turbo pipes and remove diesel pipes. Undo fuse box and lift out the way to the inner wing.
5. Jack up engine slightly and support with concrete blocks and a bit of timber.
6. Drain gearbox oil, lever off gear change cables (half ball joints pop off), disconnect speedo drive and reversing switch. Unbolt brackets holding gear change cables.
5. Remove starter, crawl under van and remove rear gearbox mount. I had to remove the rear main box mount and the bracket onto the gearbox to get it to slide back.
7. On passenger side suspension, remove 4 bolts that secure the bottom ball joint, you may need to turn the wheel to get at the bolts. Remove the steering rack bolt too.
8. The hub will now pull the driveshaft out of the gearbox on the passenger side whilst being bolted into the hub so you don't have to strip out disc and pads. Put something around the end of the shaft to protect it.
9. Support gearbox and remove 4 nuts and bolts that hold gearbox end mount and lift out mount. You have to remove the entire mount of the engine otherwise there is no clearange.
10. Remove the 8 to 10 bolts that hold the box to the engine. You will have to remove a plastic covering at the bottom of the flywheel with 2 allen keys. There are 2 bolts behind there.
Once they are all out lever the gearbox off the engine, it will free from the clutch and the drivers side inner cv joint.
11. Drag it out from under the van and say donald duck that was a right pain in the neck!
Putting it back in is just the reverse procedure. It's also a good time to check track rod ends, cv joints and ball joints.
Slightly different to the 2.8 but not too much! Hope that helps anyone. Cheers to Torq for the initial guidelines
1. Jack up van and remove passenger side wheel, Put van on axle stands, but under body not axle.
2. Remove air filter lid and filter, then remove bolts inside the filter to remove filter box.
3. Jack up gearbox side, remove nut that holds gearbox end mount to chassis, it's near the air filter.
4. Strip down turbo pipes and remove diesel pipes. Undo fuse box and lift out the way to the inner wing.
5. Jack up engine slightly and support with concrete blocks and a bit of timber.
6. Drain gearbox oil, lever off gear change cables (half ball joints pop off), disconnect speedo drive and reversing switch. Unbolt brackets holding gear change cables.
5. Remove starter, crawl under van and remove rear gearbox mount. I had to remove the rear main box mount and the bracket onto the gearbox to get it to slide back.
7. On passenger side suspension, remove 4 bolts that secure the bottom ball joint, you may need to turn the wheel to get at the bolts. Remove the steering rack bolt too.
8. The hub will now pull the driveshaft out of the gearbox on the passenger side whilst being bolted into the hub so you don't have to strip out disc and pads. Put something around the end of the shaft to protect it.
9. Support gearbox and remove 4 nuts and bolts that hold gearbox end mount and lift out mount. You have to remove the entire mount of the engine otherwise there is no clearange.
10. Remove the 8 to 10 bolts that hold the box to the engine. You will have to remove a plastic covering at the bottom of the flywheel with 2 allen keys. There are 2 bolts behind there.
Once they are all out lever the gearbox off the engine, it will free from the clutch and the drivers side inner cv joint.
11. Drag it out from under the van and say donald duck that was a right pain in the neck!
Putting it back in is just the reverse procedure. It's also a good time to check track rod ends, cv joints and ball joints.
Slightly different to the 2.8 but not too much! Hope that helps anyone. Cheers to Torq for the initial guidelines
