Hey everyone thanks for having me!

Hoping you could help me figure out which oils would be best for the car and also give me a hand with torque specs! I've got a 2001 Fiat Doblo 1.2 with which I'm attempting to replace the clutch. The car will be used as a daily driver but will also be making long trips of about 200-250 miles (each way) a couple of times a month. I don't plan on transporting any anvils but there's a good chance the car will have a bit of weight in it for some of those trips. It is after all a 1.2 Doblo, so I won't be doing any drag racing..

First question is about the bolts that connect the pressure plate to the flywheel, can't seem to find any info on torque specs or the size of the bolt (would rather have them to hand before getting the car apart).

Next questions are about oils.. for the gearbox I think the eLearn manual calls for "TUTELA CAR ZC 75 Synth" but I've been looking at "Millers Oils TRX 75w-80 GL5 Fully Synthetic Transmission Oil" - would that be an equal or better option to the Tutela. Anyone recommend anything else?

According to the service history the car's engine oil has been Castrol Magnatec for years although the last few years history is missing. Think eLearn calls for SELENIA 20K which I've not heard of before. I'll probably replace the engine oil and filter before the car is back on the road and would like to know whether you guys have any recommendations? I was looking at the Millers trident 10w40 but don't know whether I should stick to Magnatec or if there is a better oil to choose? Bit worried about the magnatec gunking up the engine so not sure if I should run some flushing agent or some extra oil through it before swapping brands.

Finally I've got a bit of an unusual issue with my rear nearside door (not the boot!). I've read plenty on people's doors not opening.. mine won't close! Well, not without excessive force (starting to damage the door). From the inside of the car you can't push the lock all the way down, the door does close if you really slam it hard enough but I mean really ridiculously hard. It opens fine, and when it does finally close it can lock with the other doors... So really confused about this one.

Hope someone can help!
Thanks

I'm sure that gearbox oil would be fine, its close enough to the spec.
I doubt magnatec gunks up the engine any more than any other oil there would be widespread issues if it did, its supposed to just leave a very fine film of oil supposedly more than other oils, it a quality oil, big magnetic clumps, don't think so. The impression I get is the fiat Selenia oils are mid range priced very expensively so I have tried Castrol gtx/ asda own brand fully synth and it all seemed ok I don't do many miles though.

Thanks for the response johnhififan, I asked the guys over at opiesoils who told me the Millers TRX 75w80 was a very good choice for the gearbox. Might leave off changing the engine oil till I have everything else sorted, only reason I was shying away from using Castrols Magnatec is because I know that before I got the car (knew previous owner) maintenance probably took a back seat and engine oils may have been mixed. If there is any old oil burnt to the inside I'd rather upgrade to a better rated oil in the hope of rectifying some damage over a couple of changes.. not because of big magnetic clumps lol

Not sure it will make any driving difference over Asda's though, especially in something like a Doblo haha

Troubleshooting

This might be a silly question but does the clutch master cylinder connect to the reservoir via the brake master cylinder?

The reason I was going to change the clutch is because of an annoyingly high bite, and the brakes are pretty appalling as well so I figured I'd change the pads and discs + bleed too. Previous owner took them to get sorted after failing an MOT on them (think brake power was under 25%) - Mechanic said front pads were fine and replaced the rear drums (which makes no sense as majority brake power comes from front) - this made little to no difference, just enough to pass MOT..

I figured the car had been to several mechanics just before I got it and something as simple as air in the system would have been picked up on..

So what do you reckon, would clutch bite be effected if the brake master cylinder had air in it (don't know if the clutch master attaches straight to reservoir or straight to brake master)? Alternatively would brakes be effected if there was air in the clutch cylinder?

It may just be that the clutch actually is on it's way out and the brakes alone need bleeding.. will have to have a look at the pads as well in case the mechanic was BSing