General 2012 Doblo Cargo door speakers

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General 2012 Doblo Cargo door speakers

elfrider

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I'm looking to replace the door speakers on my 2012 Doblo Cargo 1.3 multijet work van. Has anyone done this? The speaker grill looks separate to the door panel, but when I try and lever it it won't come out and I'm scared I'll break it. I've tried removing the whole door panel also with no joy. Also, does anyone know the size of the speakers in the doors? Thanks.
 
sorry for reviving this old post.

I recently had the same question/problem and couldn't find any information on how to remove the inner doorpanels
on a series 3 Doblo anywhere, so I decided to bite the bullet and make this write-up for anyone needing to do this in the future.

To access the front speakers, you will have to remove the complete inner doorpanels.
The standard speaker is pop-rivited to the door and you will need enough access to be able to drill out the rivets
(and drill new holes for the new speakers.)

Although it appears there is a seperate panel/grill in front of the speaker, DON'T try to remove this section !
It's not a detachable part and it will break when you try to remove it !


Here we go:

1. remove the 2 small caps in the doorhandle, so you can access 2 torx screws that hold the doorhandle section into place.
(I used a 'modified' fork to remove the caps)

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2. after removing the torx screws, lift the doorhandle section.


3. unclip the wire from the door opening/locking-mechanism and unplug the connector from the switches, so
you can remove the doorhandle section from the door/panel.

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4. remove the 3rd torx screw.

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5. gently slide a panel removal tool (highly recommended for this job) between the door and the inner panel.

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The inner panel is fixed really tight to the door by MANY (11) plastic clips and it will take some effort to get it loose.
I found it easiest to start loosening the clips on the side of the doorpanel and then work your way down.
Once you have loosened about 5 or 6 clips, you can firmly pull the panel to unclip the rest.
In my case some of the clips snapped/broke during removal, but could still be re-used.


6. Loosen the seperate top section of the panel by firmly pulling it (and then just leave it hanging loose.)
It's held in place by 3 metal clips.

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Once everything is loose and/or out of the way, push the inner doorpanel up slightly so it unhooks from the window area
and you will be able to remove the panel from the door.

NB: If some of the clips snapped during removal, remove these from the door first and (if possible) attach these back onto
the now removed doorpanel

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7. unplug the connector from the speaker and drill out the 3 rivets, so the standard speaker/housing can be removed.

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8. install the new speaker.
I used 20cm/8" pioneer speakers and depending on the type/model speakers you install, you will have to drill 3 or 4 new holes to
be able to fix it the door.
I also cut off the old standard speaker connector and soldered the wires straight to the new speakers.

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9. Test the new speaker and if everything works as desired, you can install the doorpanel back in place (using the reverse order of this removal procedure)

Hope this helps.

-Eric
 
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A brilliant description. Thanks for that detailed infrormation.

I'm not interested in upgrading my stereo, but if I was ... ;)

Obviously Fiat had no intention of anybody upgrading the speakers.
 
Thanks for that. Going to do this myself next week as the bog standard fiat ones are probably the worst I have ever heard.
 
What a faf, makes the mk1 inner door removal look easy. I bet there's better bass though as behind the speaker is sealed.

yes, I had a Mk1 before this one and replacing the door speakes on a Mk1 is a joke compared to doing the same on a Mk3.

(n)
 
No, it doesn't fit. It seems like only 10cm spekaers will fit with adapter rings.
Or is it possible to mount any bigger?
 
Thanks very informative and helpfull if a big pain to do ! how are those original speaker grills attached to the door panel on the inside ? if i knew how they are attached it may be possible to remove them without breaking them ?
 
Thank you very much for the detailed guide!
I went with some Ground Zero GZRF 5.2SQ since the original speakers where rattling quite badly.
They fit well and sounds heaps better (only 2 of the 4 screws shipped with the speakers need to be exchanged by shorter ones so they don't screw against the doorframe.
 
I have just replaced mine with some old Alpine SXS-1357 speakers with replacement tweaters.

The dissassembly by Lymon is spot on. The only difference from mys perspective is that I took the old speaker cones out of their frame, so that I could reuse the frame. I was concerned about depth as my Alpines where considerably c45mm deeper. This method also solved the overlap with the main outer door lining, which lines up exactly with the old speaker mounts.

I also removed the the underlying metal frame, behind the white plastic lining, in order to resecure the old cones with the replacement speakers.

From this I could tell it was probably possible to get some 6.5" speakers in, provided that you can get a spacer, or very shallow speakers) to solve the depth issue.

You will also need to consider the alignemnt with the main out door lining.

I am also looking to fit a VIBE under seat (Passenger) sub-woofer as there is simply insufficent bass for me from the 3" Alpines. Just need another clear weekend to sort all the wiring to power it and to secure it under the seat. MY van has no carpet just waterproof plastic/rubber stuff.
 
Just Fitted the VIBE. Wow, what a difference. The 3" alpines work well, when you filter the bass from them (below 100hz) and use the SUB instead. All done using the Pioneer headunit setup. The VIBE was a Pain in the derrier to wire-up as needs a big (fused) power feed from battery. That means routing the wire through a spare hole in the firewall and finding a new earthing point under the passenger seat. Routing audio cables around the gear lever and handbrake was interesting (different route to the power to avoid noise). Had to take the passenger seat out to wire it, as well as the passenger side under-dash tray. Got a problem with supplied remote bass boost/gain control. Think it is the wrong part supplied with my secondhand (ebay) unit.

Thinking of also fitting a pair of 6.5 speakers in the doors, driven from the rear-speaker feed from the head-unit. Should impove the low middle even more, will needs some twaeking with the head-unit though. \need to work-out how to route the wires through the door grommets.

When all sorted will supply some piccies.

Dave
 
I've been upgrading mine recently, it had a sony head unit that reduced to turn off demo mode which was annoying and the speakers fitted were blown, I'd replaced the original (to me) speakers with alpine SXE 1750S at 6.5 inches, had to cut out the original speaker mounts a little.
So bass was still very poor, speaker basically unsealed. Recently bought an alpine cde205 dab, needed a new aerial after ripping the old one off anyhow so, dab it is, roof was a bit steep for the preferred angle but it seems to work fine. Thought a higher quality of speaker might help out, so proceeding to forget I'd made the holes bigger ordered the recommended 5.25 inch C1 coaxoal speakers, I was disappointed when removing the door cards to remember I'd made the holes bigger lol, overall sound improvement at this point absolute minimal... so now I've also gone the subwoofer under the seat, an alpine pwe-s8, under drivers seat, might as well feel it, keeps the jack etc on the nearside too. Now it's starting to sound much better with bass filtered out of the doors. I put a 8 gauge cable in, in case I want to put another sub under the passenger seat and chuck the jack in the back :) Or a 500 sub in the back, sounds okay atm though.
I've removed the lump of polystyrene in the rear lower corner of the door card and mounted the alpine 1705's there for the time being, not hooked them up yet as I'm in the process of sound deadening the inner and outer door skins, acoustic foam over that and completely seal innner and outer skins. Also bought the alpine inline amp to bump the 4 channels from 25w to 50w rms, Ran speaker cable through the door jamb quick connectors, had to drill out some plastic from unused connectors... Had to take the doors off, or the dash completely out, doors out was quicker but slight higher chance of catching the loom with the drill bit. I've sound deadened the door cards as much as possible. I'll work out how to upload a few pics if anyone is interested...
 
Mine, a 2013 had completely different speaker mounts, it’s been had at before by someone who wasn’t too tidy with the wiring, maybe they used non standard mounts, they’re pressed steel, drivers door bolted on with rivnuts in door skin, passenger side riveted…
I’ve modified them back to a 5.25 from a 6.5 inch speaker after cutting them previously. Covered them in sound deadening to seal the gaps between the front and rear of the driver.
 

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