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Technical Wheel Shake

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Technical Wheel Shake

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Daveof49

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Has anyone solved the problem with the Cromas wheel tremor. Mine is getting worse now. I have read various threads say it is the GM drive shafts that are the problem, but has anyone actually found a solution?

The car is ok on short trips where the speed is around 40mph but take it on a long trip and exceed 50 mph and the wheel tremor gets really bad.

Mine is the 1.9 8 valve diesel.

:worship::worship:
 
I have managed to dodge changing our croma’s driveshaft’s yet but may well fit Vectra shafts next summer. Two things may well save you having to do a shaft change right now are firstly, get a pot of thick cv grease and with a syringe mounted with a four inch piece of 1/8 radio aerial tube, remove small cv clip and push tube until it stops inject three syringes of grease replace clip you will be amazed at how this stops shake! .Secondly when you refit the wheel make sure the wheel is in the air tighten bolts in stages I think that the fit onto the spigot is suspect!. The design of the shaft isn’t the best, the shape of the tulip cv joint means it will let all the grease out! This as the proper spec call’s for a low viscosity grease/oil which will not stay put and cause the shake. I squirted thick thick grease in two years ago and only now am considering a proper fix.
 
Suggest you have a look at the "Driveshafted" thread. There is more things in there than can be read in one head!!!
The Vectra shaft cure is the only one for the really bad shaft but the right amount of grease will cure one soon after the wobble has appeared
 
Telegraph said:
Two things may well save you having to do a shaft change right now are firstly, get a pot of thick cv grease and with a syringe mounted with a four inch piece of 1/8 radio aerial tube, remove small cv clip and push tube until it stops inject three syringes of grease replace clip you will be amazed at how this stops shake!
Click to expand...

Thank you for this brilliant idea. Do you know the brand of the grease you squirted in. The instruction book states for differentiel and wheel side different kinds, one must be heat resistant. How much is the content off 3 syringes, about half a litre? At the time I've got my Croma I found the car bottom stained with grease, after replacing the jubilee clamp the grease spitting stopped. Don't know how much was thrown out. Despite of having no problems at the moment, like to top up the remainder. Looking forward to your answer.
 
Last edited:
Hi Vento my approach is not scientific but worked our Croma started to Shake quite suddenly and I needed a quick solution!. So off to the car shop who only had 500ml pots of Comma lith-moly multipurpose cv grease which was squirted in as a stop gap two years ago. There is a thread on here which goes into detail about the correct speck grease and the amount. Getting the thick black grease into the syringe is messy! But by removing the plunger I found that the open end of the syringe sort of fitted over the hole in the grease pot and pushing it down filled it. If your boot will not keep the grease in then remove the large end and clean it and super glue it all the way round before the clip goes on and fill with the syringe. I used a 15ml syringe which from memory filled three times but probably better to weigh the syringe empty then full and workout how much to put in.
From experience and what is written on the forum it is clear to see that these cv tulips are rubbish but i am sure the root of the trouble is that they are nearly impossible to seal and the proper oil/grease is so thin it will leak out also the thin grease does not take up wear and tear (the thick stuff does).
 

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Telegraph said:
Hi Vento my approach is not scientific but worked our Croma started to Shake quite suddenly and I needed a quick solution!. So off to the car shop who only had 500ml pots of Comma lith-moly multipurpose cv grease which was squirted in as a stop gap two years ago. There is a thread on here which goes into detail about the correct speck grease and the amount. Getting the thick black grease into the syringe is messy! But by removing the plunger I found that the open end of the syringe sort of fitted over the hole in the grease pot and pushing it down filled it. If your boot will not keep the grease in then remove the large end and clean it and super glue it all the way round before the clip goes on and fill with the syringe. I used a 15ml syringe which from memory filled three times but probably better to weigh the syringe empty then full and workout how much to put in.
From experience and what is written on the forum it is clear to see that these cv tulips are rubbish but i am sure the root of the trouble is that they are nearly impossible to seal and the proper oil/grease is so thin it will leak out also the thin grease does not take up wear and tear (the thick stuff does).
Click to expand...

Concerning 1,9 mulijet 16V built 2008.
Some grease was smashed out of the c.v. joint gaiters. The second gaiter started leaking when the car was 5 years old, wich means, keep an eye on it if it not leaks yet. After reading your post dear Telegraph, decided to top up the remainder on my car also. Fixed a thin flexible hose on a grease gun (the purchased grease container fitted nice and snugly into the gun) and tried to get the other end into the gaiter from the side of the little c.v. clip, witch was not very easy. From the side of the big c.v. clip it was a piece of cake. Pumped about one tea cup of grease into each side, left and richt. The original grease has a yellow color, the grease they sell in most car shops is black, don't know if it is wise to mix them. Before and after topping up, no wobble or trembling was noticeable, hence a bit to much or to less grease will not cause the car to shake. Belief the grease will mostly land on the inside of the gaiter and form a even layer on the interior. Replaced the original big c.v. clip with 2 normal adjustable jubilee clips (this will absolutely stop the leaking) with the spanning devices opposite each other.
 
Mucking about with grease made no long-term difference to mine. I got the correct quantity of the right brand, but it just made it OK-ish for about 5 miles then it was back to being awful.

There are two possible cures - a Vectra driveshaft or PXing it against a different car. I chose the second option.
 
Yes I got rid of mine due to the wobble after spending a fortune on it trying to stop it. Due to the very high price of new replacement shafts I had all 4 inner and outer drive shafts re-conditioned on both sides, new front discs and pads and replaced all wheels & tyres, made very little difference. Now sticking with my Stilo 1.9JTD estate. Having had 2 Cromas 1.9 multijet 150's I feel many of the components are just not up to the job. I do wonder if the latest Bavro is the same, but its too small for me.
 
...However, to be fair I should add that I wasn't doing the work myself - it was dnoe by a local garage. I don't know whether they were sealing it together properly. At least once it did spew all its grease out, and the wheel got a good greasy coating.

I prefer my lovely new Berlingo - put key in, drive where you want, take key out. It's a van with windows, but it's surprisingly lovely to drive.
 
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