Technical My chromatic again

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Technical My chromatic again

scub

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Hiya,

Another niggle. Front right brake makes a funny " crunking" noise after about 20 mins driving and brakes are used at slow speed. Had a new caliper fitted last week, hasn't made any difference. Could it be master cylinder leaking? Doesn't seem to do it reversing and it was doing it this morning but heavy rain cured it in the Afro
 
Hiya,

Another niggle. Front right brake makes a funny " crunking" noise after about 20 mins driving and brakes are used at slow speed. Had a new caliper fitted last week, hasn't made any difference. Could it be master cylinder leaking? Doesn't seem to do it reversing and it was doing it this morning but heavy rain cured it in the Afro
Yep I have the same issue.... it's quite annoying
 
My Mechanic reckons next port of call is the break hose, then master cylinder, I`ll let you know how it goes..
 
that problem has been reported on here before.im sure it was the master cylinder at fault.
 
Still ongoing. Cylinder ordered today. New caliper and hose not resolved. Keep polling
 
New cylinder being fitted Monday, will be around wed before I notice if it has been fixed.
 
Hi - just as a bit of info - my 2006 1.9 Prestigio had this problem as well on the drivers side front. When my independent mechanic looked at it the inner pad was almost worn down with only 50% wear on the outer one. The caliper was freed up and has been given some copper grease each time he has the car (service/MOTetc) and it has not re-occured(y)
On a R/h drive car you will not get a warning for a worn pad as the nice chaps at Fiat only put wiring on the passenger side! where the L/h drive cars will get earlier pad wear:bang:
 
I'll be waiting for reply, because this noise is driving me crazy
Well

new master cylinder fitted today and it has made no difference

There is defo a build up of pressure in the line as you can release it by opening bleeder valve briefly on caliper,

when you say needs a new master cylinder, is it just the cylinder or is it also the servo that it bolts into? Looks like the head will have to come off to accomadate fitting(2.4mj)

I`ll discuss this with my mechanic on the morrow..

The mj200`s are so much fun to drive, but i`ve been favoring the wife`s rav4 for the longer journeys as I cant listen to the noise anymore :(
 
Well

new master cylinder fitted today and it has made no difference

There is defo a build up of pressure in the line as you can release it by opening bleeder valve briefly on caliper,

when you say needs a new master cylinder, is it just the cylinder or is it also the servo that it bolts into? Looks like the head will have to come off to accomadate fitting(2.4mj)

I`ll discuss this with my mechanic on the morrow..

The mj200`s are so much fun to drive, but i`ve been favoring the wife`s rav4 for the longer journeys as I cant listen to the noise anymore :(
It is very easy to be thrown off the scent in cases like this, there will be residual pressure left in all brakelines with the car at a standstill . This is probably as designed so the brakes have no lag as the pressure builds up on braking ( just my experience/ thoughts for what is safest)
Get your mechanic to check the wear on the pads on the side you are having trouble with and deal with it as per my previous post.
In the past I have had a grinding noise from the pads when grit from winter salting has become trapped in the pad material. It sounded like scratching fingernails on a blackboard:yuck:
 
It is very easy to be thrown off the scent in cases like this, there will be residual pressure left in all brakelines with the car at a standstill . This is probably as designed so the brakes have no lag as the pressure builds up on braking ( just my experience/ thoughts for what is safest)
Get your mechanic to check the wear on the pads on the side you are having trouble with and deal with it as per my previous post.
In the past I have had a grinding noise from the pads when grit from winter salting has become trapped in the pad material. It sounded like scratching fingernails on a blackboard:yuck:
Aye, everything was checked out initially and was found to be relatively new (I`ve only had this car a few months)

After a run and the noise is present, if you jack up the front of the car, the noisy side is stiff to turn wheel, the quiet side turns with ease.

There is a lot of brake dust on the noisy wheel.

Its not a grinding noise like worn pads, more of a crunking noise like sheet metal stressing. I initially thought it was the brake disk shield but all other symptoms point to caliper.

Mechanic reckons pressure is getting trapped inside the caliper, and proves this by bleeding caliper slightly and noticing the drag reduce on the wheel..

Everything has been replaced except servo and footpedal

Feekin power steering has started playing up as well.

Its maybe time...
 
Aye, everything was checked out initially and was found to be relatively new (I`ve only had this car a few months)

After a run and the noise is present, if you jack up the front of the car, the noisy side is stiff to turn wheel, the quiet side turns with ease.

There is a lot of brake dust on the noisy wheel.

Its not a grinding noise like worn pads, more of a crunking noise like sheet metal stressing. I initially thought it was the brake disk shield but all other symptoms point to caliper.

Mechanic reckons pressure is getting trapped inside the caliper, and proves this by bleeding caliper slightly and noticing the drag reduce on the wheel..

Everything has been replaced except servo and footpedal

Feekin power steering has started playing up as well.

Its maybe time...
On the car is also an electro hydraulic unit and electronic control unit . these govern the ABS+ ESP and can divert hydraulic pressure to different wheels under certain conditions. There is a post about it in the forum somewhere with symptoms of one wheel getting very hot from the brake being on. Check it out in forum tools on the front page.
 
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On the car is also an electro hydraulic unit and electronic control unit . these govern the ABS+ ESP and can divert hydraulic pressure to different wheels under certain conditions. There is a post about it in the forum somewhere with symptoms of one wheel getting very hot from the brake being on. Check it out in forum tools on the front page.


Interesting note, thanx!

I wonder if pressing that button beside gearknob will bypass esp. ASR or something its called..

will sift through forums a little later..
 
The unit is situated on the right hand side of the engine bay behind the battery. There is a large electrical connector on top of the ECU and loads of pipework connected to the valve block. ( looks like a patient in Holby City;-) )
There are solenoid valves inside the block that allow it to work one may be sticking ?
 
K,

disabled ASR, stillnoisy

pulled fuse for ABS, still noisy

took for run - noisy. mechanic test drove, wasnt convinced it was a brake issue - checked caliper for sieze - ok

They want to look at the top mount on the suspension arm now...

Different kettle of fish i know...
 
I'll be waiting for reply, because this noise is driving me crazy

Mechanic is now looking at top suspension mount.

Brake grab seems to have been fixed via new cylinder, but noise continues whilst braking.

Finally managed to get them to take car for test run and it looks like the noise flagged up a stick caliper, but the sticky caliper wasnt the cause of the noise..

i.e a sore fingers a sore thing, but a sore thing isnt a sore finger ;)
 
:devil::slayer:

shock Top mount has been replaced.

No noises so far (around 1.5 hrs driving)

looks like previous owner(trader in Leeds) filled the top mount with oil and my mechanic reckons they did that to fix a squeak and in turn its perished the rubber in the top mount causing the crunking noise..

will confirm fixed at weekend, sometimes after its been up on the ramps it cures it for a couple of days.. :bang:
 
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