Right, I'll say this very quietly so as not to put a curse on it...

I think the brakes are Fixed!!!

Yes, given that the two diagonals were sticking, all hands were pointing at the master cylinder. New master cylinder fitted, all is very well so far.

Cool disks all round after a 50 mile motorway journey, mpg up by about 2-5 too.

Got the part from www.gsfcarparts.com. It was listed as for a Croma, £99.60 inc VAT and free delivery. It's a proper one, identical to the original, made by TRW. I saw this price elsewhere for some other one. Be careful if trying to get a Vectra equivalent, there are several variations - it does look like one of the possible ones may be the same, not sure though. I took the easy option and got one for a Croma instead, and the price sounded fine anyway. It was showing as "out of stock" on their website, but I rang (as they were the only option), and he said they show it as out of stock if they only have one left, and they actually had one in stock - worth knowing.

This is it...

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/652gm0070

For a 16v 1.9D. The tank shown is not included.

I also wasted time trying to order some Pagid rubbish from Euro Car Parts. They emailed to say they don't sell it any more, but it was still on their website last time I checked.

I also saw a couple of scrap ones on ebay, but I didn't want to introduce another unknown. Especially as I suspect that a good number of Cromas have this issue, perhaps some owners just don't notice the brakes cooking constantly.

Hi there,

Just leaving a note on the thread so i can find it again.

A new master cylinder hasnt worked for me..

Poor thing. I understand the annoyance.

Mine's been fine ever since - I'm pretty sure anyway.

Do you have two opposite diagonals sticking or just one? If just one then have you got a new caliper?

It "looks" like my brakes have been fixed with the new cylinder, however. I was still getting a noise when braking at low speed.

It looks as if it was the top suspension bush that was needing replacing after the trader that sold it to me filled it up with oil.

And like your previous post, I think its fixed, but i dont want to put a curse on it.

(not looking forward to the bill from the garage, new caliper, line, master cylinder and now top mount)

While lying on my back under the car, waiting for the oil to drain, i started spinning the front wheels (up on axle stands) and immediately noticed how still the OSF was. Other was fine.

Something else to look into! Havent noticed any noise, but definitely noticed excess brake dust on my wheels.

Nobody has mentioned the hill holder yet. Could that be a factor? It does apply the brakes, maybe it gets lazy in releasing them. Although anytime ive used it it seems to release pretty cleanly. Or is it something only on prestigios?

Mine was the same. Always wore the OSF pads more than the near side. Nothing would fix it.

BTW mine was an Eleganza16v.

Radlet6 said:

Mine was the same. Always wore the OSF pads more than the near side. Nothing would fix it.

BTW mine was an Eleganza16v.

Click to expand...

I am a big chap and it was always my OSF pads which wore first as I was most of the time the only person in the car. The grinding noise when the pads were worn greeted me every time without a dash warning, as the wear wiring was on the near side only . :slayer:
Exasperation thy name is Croma driver

The one and only test I know is to go for a drive at decent speed without using the brakes, e.g. dual carriegeway or motorway - it's also a good test of your engine-braking skills. Park up then hold your hand over each disk in turn. They should be nothing more than mildly warm - if any are hot then they're sticking.

If the sticking ones are at diagonally opposite corners then a new master cylinder is needed.

Rolling stop grab jerk.

Whilst wheel/disc temperature can be a clue the only reliable test I trust is the "rolling stop" test. If any brake is even slightly grabbing then the car will finally come to a minute (or larger) jerk stop. If I ever find this then I then go looking for the warmer wheel. Luckily I have an infra-red "point and shoot" thermoter. Keeps the fingers clean

Hi all,


My 2005 Croma is presenting the same right wheel braking symptoms. Could you please confirm if the master cylinder change was the solution for the right front wheel brake sticking?

Thank you very much.
Pedro Gonçalves

Hi,
It sounds like it was it two cases at least. I think Doofer is Croma-less now but he keeps an eye here so maybe can update.
Is your rear left also getting hot?
I have very slight sticking but am still investigating.

Robert G8RPI.

Hi,
Yes it does. Not just firmly stuck as right front wheel, but stuck. The garage does not have any solution, and they started the piece by piece changing process, with not success. The car is bit old now and I would like to avoid big expences, so I'me trying to confirm Doofer tip before.
Thank you.
Pedro Gonçalves

I had a problem a while ago with the right front sticking but taking the pad, disc and caliper off and changing the pads for better quality ones seemed to do the trick.

I've read a few threads suggesting the master cylinders can be a problem though so you might not be as lucky.

My rear left was causing a problem last summer but this time this caliper was gone so got one off ecp and changed it along with the pads and disc.

Hi all, finally solved my axle problems 2 months ago, after replacing most parts on the front rhs, turns out it was a rusty disc. It had grown with rust and there's a little metal sheild at the bottom of the axle, that stops the disc touching a rubber bit which can expand under load. This was causing a grinding noise through bends. Lifting the car up on ramps used to cure the issue temporarily as the rubber took a week or two to settle